Back in Edinburgh for another edition of the Whisky Fringe. The train was cancelled, this morning. We had to take another one, two hours later, which made us rush and join the queue a little too close to the opening time, without a proper meal. Not without food, though: we stopped in a wee shop for sarnies. The queue is just long enough to eat half of them and line our stomachs a little.
It seems the show has grown quite a bit, since last year, with more exhibitors and a whole new room called Lost Distilleries. As the name suggests, that one focuses on hard-to-get drams from closed distilleries, and one obtains drams in exchange for tokens, which cost £5 each. We could end up spending a lot of time (and money), there!
Oh! and there is a welcome dram from a closed distillery.
Port Dundas 15yo 2010/2026 (46%, Signatory Vintage The Un-Chillfiltered Collection, 1st Fill Sherry Hogsheads & 1st Fill Bourbon Barrels, L26/63)
Nose: buttery pastry, very sweet, doughnut, custard cream.
Mouth: the doughnut parade continues, which is ironic, considering we had no time to stop for doughnuts on the way here. There is also a corn-husk bitterness.
Finish: sweet doughnuts served on a metal plate (zinc?)
Comment: nice starter.
Score: 7/10
Now perusing the bottlings in the Lost Distilleries area. The selection is impressive. In fact, it is phlabberghasting.
| A Glen Flagler? A Kinclaith? A Killyloch? |
| The most saught-after Glenlochy? |
It is hilarious to see most people gravitate towards the Port Ellen, a Diageo Annual Release, at that, when there is much rarer stuff to explore. That said, I have tried or own ninety-five percent of what is on offer and elect to spend little time here. Perhaps others feel the same.
To note: the Rosebank is the official 31yo that we tried last year. It is offered this year as a halftime-orange dram again. To have it here too feels like a gaffe-and-a-half!
We continue our journey downstairs to the tent.
Balblair 12yo 2014/2026 (56.1%, Little Brown Dog Small Batch, Calvados Cask, 290b)
Nose: it has gherkin, then brine an moist paper bags from a perfume shop.
Mouth: very brandy-like. Plum, greengage, gooseberry, apple.. That last one is suggestion speaking, surely -- Calvados, innit.
Finish: yes, this is a fruit eau-de-vie in character, with crunchy apples and unripe plums.
Comment: it is okay. A bit thin and eau-de-vie-like for me.
Score: 6/10
Orkney 24yo 2001/2026 (53.1%, Little Brown Dog Small Batch, Refill Hogsheads)
Nose: comforting and medicinal nose, with old bandages, embrocations, age-old gauze. Roasted apples are behind, as are smoked apples and a bit of tobacco too (cigar).
Mouth: rather juicy, it has tobacco and gauze, through which pressurised fruit-juice steam has been pumped.
Finish: long, warming. Someone is smoking a cigarillo whilst roasting apples.
Comment: very, very good.
Score: 8/10
Caol Ila 12yo 2013/2026 (57.3%, Little Brown Dog Small Batch, Refill Bourbon Barrels, 384b)
Nose: spirit-y, it opens up to give a naked sweet crust (no topping). Fortunately, pressed apricot rears its head.
Mouth: ha. Very thin and very spirit-y, as if custard (without vanilla) and corn syrup (without sweetness) had a bastard child.
Finish: not much, here either. Wet cardboard with confectionary sugar. JS finds it a skunky aftertaste, while I find it astringent.
Comment: an unpeated Caol Ila. A curiosity that does not work for me. I remember trying the official unpeated expression, many years ago, and thinking the same. It must have been 2011's Special Release version or 2012's. It appears Caol Ila without peat is simply not whisky that works for me.
Score: 6/10
Invergordon 7yo 2017.2025 (58.8%, Little Brown Dog Small Batch, Virgin Oak Casks, 300b)
Nose: a lot of custard, at first, but that Irn Bru note so typical of rye whiskies appears at the end. Warm pastry, pie or other.
Mouth: a rye it is! Irn Bru, polished metal and something much weirder. Fart? Or is it the three blokes near us?
Finish: this is the best part, with custard sprinkled with Irn Bru, and smoked raisins.
Comment: a rye produced at the North-Highland grain distillery. The finish makes this interesting, not memorable.
Score: 7/10
JS: "They're great, aren't they?"
Drookit Dug 10yo (45.1%, Little Brown Dog, Final Batch)
Nose: it smells very blend-y. Dusty cardboard, corn syrup... That dissipates and gives couque suisse and craquelin.
Mouth: the briny jelly of preserved pistachios, mocha custard.
Finish: lovely custard, but the cardboard-y element is hard to see past, and the alcohol is not elegantly integrated.
Comment: meh.
Score: 6/10
Aberdeenshire 12yo (46%, Little Brown Dog, b. ca.2026)
Nose: Scottish tablet, toffee, even fudge. Mostly fudge, actually. And thick ashes.
Mouth: mocha bitterness complements a custard-y texture (again). Melted chocolate with orange rinds and too much milk.
Finish: orange juice punctuated with melted chocolate chips.
Comment: decent likely Geerie.
Score: 7/10
Kingsbarns Doocot (46%, OB, 90% Bourbon + 10% STR Portuguese Red Wine Casks, b. ca.2026)
Nose: bluberry madeleines and blackcurrant cheesecake.
Mouth: it tastes younger than the nose suggested, with windscreen defroster complementing an undeniable fruity backdrop of unripe currants and gooseberries.
Finish: pleasant and comforting, it has blackcurrant cheesecake and blackberry sundae.
Comment: it is okay.
Score: 7/10
Glen Moray 18yo 2007/2026 (54.7%, Keeble Cask Fragrant Drops, Refill Bourbon Barrel, C#357, 218b)
Nose: a peaty Moray? This was announced as a lemon bomb, but it smells pretty earthy to me, with mud patties and farm paths. If there is any lemon, it is smoked. Antiseptic or dishwasher tablet (JS). Lemon rises timidly, given time.
Mouth: green olives meet dishwasher tablets. Chewing injects stringent lemon alright, but it is not that dominant, even if it becomes stripping, over time.
Finish: more dishwasher tablets (well spotted, JS) mixed with mud.
Comment: competent.
Score: 7/10
Tamnavulin 12yo 2013/2026 (60%, Keeble Cask Fragrant Drops, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, C#111516, 195b)
Nose: dried grass, hay (is that not the same thing?), mulch, custard powder, maybe a metal straw?
Mouth: hm. Naked. New ropes, turpentine. It is stripping. My tongue feels abused.
Finish: it is better here. It shows some fruits (plums, berries, not very ripe) and ginger biscuits. Or is that my craving those shortbreads they just put out at the stand? The next gulp is a tad more complex, but still not easy.
Comment: disappointing.
Score: 6/10
Kingsbarns Coaltown (46%, OB, ex-Peated Casks, b. ca.2026)
Nose: banana skins? That quickly makes way for baked bread -- baked to cardboard, in fact. We can hear the French residents of Auld Reekie slicing their wrists in despair -- and they are right. Cereals follow, mostly dry as stale granola.
Mouth: toasted cereals indeed, a bit of soot, charred husks and windscreen defroster sprayed onto raw cereals.
Finish: rough, it has defroster spray and bitter currants. Maybe cardboard too.
Comment: not for me.
Score: 5/10
Dalmunach 7yo d.2018 (55.4%, Blind Summit, Amontillado Sherry Hogshead, 170b)
Nose: Mokatines and warmed digestive biscuits are joined by a soap bar. That turns very buttery with a moment's breathing. Later on, we discover plain coffee.
Mouth: cardboard, Horlicks, Mokatine again. It is supremely drying at second sip and rather spicy too.
Finish: ashes, rocks, fruit stones (dry, stripped of any flesh). Long finish, almost invasive.
Comment: okayish.
Score: 6/10
Halftime is looming. Time to decide what to do.
| This poster comes in handy |
| Mossburn thought it useful to specify that 100 ppm classes as heavily peated :-) |