Back in ze Heimat for a few days. Sadly, much of the German-speaking part of the country is burning. A thought for those who are fighting the flames and another for those, not all human, who have lost everything in the same flames.
In more rejoicing news, we are having a tasting. JS suggested the theme, which is wide enough to promise ridiculous connections.
red71, Psycho, ydc, GD, adc and JS join me. PSc, kruuk2 and Kirk Barleycorn will arrive at various points in the afternoon. dom666, on the other hand, called off at 8:20 this morning, victim of a bastard hangover, we speculate.
| red71 made his famous canelés |
| One of them comes alive |
| red71, his canelés and his assistant for the day |
| We will call him red72 in a family picture |
Psycho introduces Cellar 13 which, incidentally, is bottled at 43%.
Glenmorangie 10yo Cellar 13 (43%, OB, First Fill American Mountain Oak Casks, B#2, b. ca. 2004) (Psycho)
Nose: light, vibrant, ethereal, it has a fantastic mix of pressed lychee, mixed peel and rambutan. ydc finds Smyrna raisins and sultanas. It might have a drop of lemon juice too.
Mouth: thinned-out caramel, hot toffee and chilli flakes. We have a dollop of custard too, with a fistful of bitter wood shavings.
Finish: Quality Street's Toffee Penny (adc), toffee through and through, butterscotch, vanilla ice cream.
Comment: it is always a blast to try this, and it fares just as well as it did twenty years ago.
Score: 8/10
ydc unveils her savoury cake.
| Tuna and preserved lemon cake |
Psycho: “I know a Chinese proverb that says: ‘If you have nothing wise to say, quote a Chinese proverb.’”
We follow up with another Glenmorangie at 43%, this one a 23-year-old.
Glenmorangie 23yo d.1963 (43%, OB distributed by Wilmerink & Muller, Oloroso Sherry Casks Finish) (group)
Nose: marzipan and cherry coulis, berries cheesecake, orange PiM’s (Psycho and red71).
Mouth: chewy, thick, it has rubber and a delicate and elegant dusty side (red71). It makes ydc think of Christmas and dried fruits; Psycho drops the word 'kuglof' into the mix.
Finish: “candied fruits,” says ydc, who also finds it very warming, whereas red71 calls it very concentrated.
Comment: unabashed masterpiece. My full notes are here.
Score: 10/10
PSc enters. adc greets him with haggis bonbons with a mustard sauce.
| Haggis bonbon |
kruuk2 arrives shortly thereafter.
| A merry gang we are |
PSc presents a Benrinnes bottled at 43%.
Benrinnes 15yo (43%, OB imported by DBBY) (PSc)
Nose: it is fairly pickled, with red onions, gherkins and smoked tree bark. It evolves to include something metallic, but retains a hint of sulphur (kruuk2).
Mouth: PiM’s. This is really an orange filling, unctuous and jammy. It also has Pimm’s, just to make it confusing — the vermouth-like English fruit cup that is popular in summer.
Finish: big and orange-y, with a coat of dark chocolate. There is little of the Benrinnes pine-y character at play, here.
Comment: of course, it has a hard job, after the old Glenmorangie, but even disregarding that, it is hard not to be disappointed. The PiM’s notes are delightful; the sulphur and pickle not so much. Perhaps it will improve in the open bottle.
Score: 6/10
tOMoH presents a 29yo Jura.
Jura 29yo (42.9%, Elixir Distillers The Single Malts of Scotland A Marriage of Casks, 576b) (tOMoH)
Nose: citrus aplenty, namely pink grapefruit and lemon zest. It has lozenges too, then candied apricots. Psycho detects fruit cake. He is the fruit cake.
Mouth: mellow, fruity, a tad bitter, it has menthol (Psycho), citrus and liquorice (PSc). Tarragon too (Psycho).
Finish: mellow, apricot-y. JS finds Ricola cough drops, while kruuk2 calls it herbaceous.
Comment: we discovered this on Islay, a couple of years ago. At the time, I thought we had found OC’s masterpiece. My opinion has not changed. The majority had an apprehension when they saw the distillery, but they are bowled over.
Score: 9/10
tOMoH: “Très sexuel final?”
PSc: "…and whether you wiped your mouth after eating!”
Psycho unveils a Tamnavulin 26yo, which is 2 x 13, two prime numbers, the first of which is the first (prime) prime number. Also, it was the first (prime) bottle he found when he opened his bar.
Tamnavulin-Glenlivet 26yo 1992/2018 (51.3%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, 234b, 18/357) (Psycho)
Nose: dust (adc), grist and custard powder, then crayons and wax. The second nose has a strong whiff of wood (wooden trays), then freeze-dried raspberries.
Mouth: sweet yet lively, it has ginger powder and a drop of wine. A certain bitterness appears at second sip, maybe liquorice.
Finish: long, warming, it tickles a notch. We have some vanilla custard with ginger and pepper. There are some dried fruits too, very late in the game (Psycho).
Comment: I like this much more than when it came out. Chances are it will further improve in the open bottle.
Score: 8/10
GD and ydc bring forth a small bottle — a brewery they like distilled their wort as an experience. For the first (prime) time.
Lupus Ardens (45%, Brasserie du Loup) (ydc + GD)
Nose: beer on steroids meets plum eau-de-vie. PSc finds Śliwowica and Mirabelle plum. I have unripe-lemon zest.
Mouth: mellow, it has delicious citrus sprayed with eau-de-vie — or citrus juice sprayed onto eau-de-vie.
Finish: punchy fruit here too, it is light, almost beer-like and fresh.
Comment: love it.
Score: 7/10
Kirk Barleycorn enters. ydc and GD depart.
PSc proposes a Singleton, not because of its unicity (1 is not a prime number, after all), but because it has 281 in the bar code. He adds that, if one assigns a number to each of the twenty-six letters in the alphabet, Dufftown spells 109, which is a prime number. Keith, the larger town of which Dufftown is a part of, makes 53, also a prime number. PSc tells us that with so much aplomb that none of us double-checks. For all we know, it is all porkies.
The Singleton 18yo (40%, OB imported by DBBY, Bourbon and Sherry Casks, L23310M003 0000006243) (PSc)
Nose: orange liqueur, blush orange, zest, sawdust and bay leaves.
Mouth: mellow, it is another one reminiscent of PiM’s, those delicious chocolate-coated orange cakes. It also offers toffee.
Finish: more orange cake with chocolate, sawdust and ginger powder.
Comment: simple, efficient. In another context, I may go up one point.
Score: 7/10
kruuk2 pours us a Laphroaig bottled at 43%. It would be repetitive but for the fact he bought it in 2003 (prime) after discovering it in a restaurant Le Bois sans feuilles, owned and run by the Troisgros family. Troisgros literally means Bigthree, three being a prime number. The restaurant also has three Michelin star, yet another prime number (which kruuk2 does not mention).
Laphroaig 15yo (43%, OB imported by Allied Domecq Spirits & Wine, b. ca.2003) (kruuk2)
Nose: seaweed and ashes, smoked strawberries and ashy peach. The more one sniffs, the fruitier it becomes. It ends up bringing melon skins to the surface, in pure Laphroaig fashion.
Mouth: mellow, it carries on the ashy-fruity trip and becomes ashier when chewing. So much melon comes out too! Cantaloupe, Canary, Charentais, Hami, Snap, or even smoked Korean melon.
Finish: loads and loads of ashes. That spreads to serve juicy nectar.
Comment: fantastic. kruuk2 warned us it might be spent, or tired, at the very least. Instead, it reminds me of the superb 10yo we had earlier this summer.
Score: 9/10
Kirk Barleycorn presents a bottle from Campbeltown and tells us he has visited Campbeltown eleven times. Prime number.
all: “You’re accepted into the group.”
Springbank 1975/1995 Traditional Campbeltown (46%, OB for Tesco, Oak Casks, b#0262, 95/205) (Kirk Barleycorn)
Nose: inimitable Springbank from a certain era. Cut pears and carambolas, and halved cherries rolled in ashes. Caramelised orange rinds too, and marzipan (PSc and Kirk Barleycorn) kissed by cigar smoke.
Mouth: cherries (PSc). This has cherry jam, ash-sprinkled overripe peaches, more carambola… There is even a mineral touch at second sip.
Finish: a pinch of ash and cut fruits.
Comment: what a masterpiece. Extraordinary.
Score: 10/10
Kirk Barleycorn starts slicing a Jamón he brought.
| A self-sufficient one, with knife, cutting board and all |
red71 gives us a 23yo whisky. He delivers a whole masterclass on prime numbers, but I fail to capture it.
Linkwood 23yo 1998/2021 (53.3%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice Cask Strength exclusively bottled for TyndrumWhisky.com, Refill Sherry Hogshead, C#13808, 267b, 21/214) (red71)
Nose: sweeter, it has marzipan mingling with wood.
Mouth: tannic, a trifle winy, let us be honest, but pleasantly so. Plump berries.
Finish: long, earthy, it has rancio, a whiff of game or cured meat, and lingonberry compote.
Comment: the Springbank is a hard act to follow, but this does it very well. Full notes here.
Score: 8/10
Kirk Barleycorn gives us a 31yo whisky.
Glen Garioch 31yo 1994/2026 (53.4%, Royal Mile Whiskies, Barrel, C#143078, 186b) (Kirk Barleycorn)
Nose: lemon cake, hot pastry on a heated baking tray, fruity turnovers. Sherbet appears later on, softly chalky.
Mouth: it is pronouncedly lemony, with chewy dried pineapple and grapefruit chunks. It gains a few spices at second sip and turns a tad chalky again.
Finish: sherbet, grapefruit drops, papaya drops.
Comment: this is excellent. Hope to try it again, one day.
Score: 8/10
We open PSc’s boulettes-liégeoises crisps pack.
Some are not convinced. They call the taste very subtle. I think they are delicious, but they are obviously a Flemish-made counterfeit: the real thing would have been called "boulets à la liégeoise." To not know ‘boulettes’ are called ‘boulets’ in Liège is a cardinal sin and a dead giveaway.
kruuk2: “La rétro-boulette olfaction!”
tOMoH: “The taste grows more accurate with each bite. The more you eat, the closer it tastes like the real thing. That goes well with Liège, where everything is slow.”
kruuk2: Les Belges ont l’heure, les Liégeois ont le temps.”
adc unveils her bottle. She tells us that, when one adds all the figures on the front label, one obtains 74. “That is not a prime number,” everyone shouts. But 7 + 4 = 11, which is one. Also, it is bottle number 79, a prime number.
Jura 7yo 2016/2024 (60%, OB Distillery Cask, C#1428, b#79) (adc)
Nose: cake (Psycho), candy floss, sherbet, metal, gingerbread (Psycho).
Mouth: sweet, custard-y, it has hot fruit turnovers, pineapple custard, cut papaya and an old, cushiony sofa (Psycho).
Finish: creamy, sweet, custard-y, it has a pinch of crushed mint crumble.
Comment: another one that no-one believed in. A Jura? At that age? Why torture us like that? Everybody ends up a believer. Incredible quality and integration. Delicious stuff.
Score: 8/10
JS introduces a 1989 Braes of Glenlivet (“Not a prime,” they all shout), bearing the cask number 1051, which is prime. Also, the distilling date is written 19/05/89; all three are prime numbers.
Braes of Glenlivet 22yo 1989/2011 (60.2%, The Scottish Liqueur Centre Càrn Mòr Celebration of the Cask, Bourbon Hogshead, C#1051, 267b b#69) (JS)
Nose: sweets and crystallised fruits (PSc and adc).
Mouth: candy floss or cotton candy (PSc).
Finish: “the chimney you sit next to in winter; it is that warming” (Psycho).
Comment: I make little effort to analyse this much. Firstly because I am loaded, secondly because others are on the move. We have had it before anyway. It is still a good dram.
Score: 8/10
Phew! we survived. Not a single broken cork, today. Must have been all fake bottles. :-)

