01/05/2026 Balvenie

Here is the dram we skipped last week.

Balvenie 32yo 1966/1998 (42.1%, OB Vintage Cask, C#6432, 264b, b#36): nose: this is a side of Balvenie I am less familiar with, but one that brings a smile of satisfaction. It bursts with mango, Galia melon, papaya, persimmon and ripe peaches. It has nectarines too, less prominent. A few jasmine buds speckle the surface of that fruit juice, soon joined by a pinch of finely-ground white pepper. Time adds other fruits, such as green grapes, guava and carambola. Maybe it has timid citrus zest and, at last, a minute amount of berries. The second nose is rather different: gone are the fruits, replaced by herbs in a pine clearing. Fresh mint, tarragon, marjoram, lemon thyme and pine needles all combine to form a gel, ready to be injected into hard-shelled sweets. Mouth: mellow, unctuous and seemingly accessible, it has pouring custard with a drop of pressed fruits, some unripe as to impart a minor bitterness. We find a lick of metal too, stainless steel or aluminium. Chewing adds a gorgeous hazelnut paste, sweet, unctuous and bitter, but the fruits come out fast and strong -- carambola, guava, chayote served on a metal plate. It has a dash of chicory infusion too, which is even more unexpected. The second sip is as mellow, probably a tad more acidic. We now have citrus pulp blended with a spoonful of yoghurt -- pink grapefruit, pomelo, blush orange. We really go from white-green tropical fruits to pink-reddish citrus. Finish: if the alcohol felt modest on the palate, it kicks harder here. No violence, or anything; simply, one can feel the heat, a little, amongst the fruity, syrupy goodness. It could probably be likened to stem ginger. Beside are hazelnut paste, galangal purée, lemongrass-fueled celeriac mash, timid milk chocolate, lukewarm custard. Behind all that, smashed carambola and guava steadily rise. That all makes for a creamy finish with a bitter nuance. The second gulp feels more quaffable, better integrated, and a notch fruitier. It remains creamy, but the hazelnut paste is almost overrun by lovely citrus; Shaddock, pink grapefruit, Oroblanco, Ugli fruit. Fantastic. 9/10

26/04/2026 The Whisky Fair (Day 2 -- Part 2)

Time is now accelerating. We, on the other hand, are tired. We must prioritise cautiously.

tOMoH: "1cl of this, please."
Him: "Only 1cl? You will want more. It is so delicious."

Caol Ila 1984/1996 (50%, Brae Dean Int. imported by Moon Import Dovr-Tutes-Mares, Oak Cask, b#0279)

Nose: very composed (JS). Crushed seashells, sand and fishing nets. Caol Ila. At the same time, it is incredibly elegant.

Mouth: sweet, marzipan-y, it is also salty. Incredibly, the combination works a charm. Crushed seashells join the above and they start an otherworldly dance.

Finish: Jacob Ree-ZOMG. Only Caol Ila from 1983-1984 can blend sweetness, salt and kippers this way.

Comment: emotional dram. The bloke was right: I do want more. There is too much left in the bottle for me to leave with it, however. Cannot afford it.

Score: 10/10

Back to where we started, then.

Deanston 25yo 1997/2023 (51.6%, The Whisky Jury exclusively bottled for The Antelope, Refill Hogshead, C#1966, 257b, b#6)

Nose: a few nuts, hazel tree, haybales. This is fairly dry on the nose.

Mouth: mead. It really has this allure of honey liqueur. There are some nut shells too, but that is more discreet. A drop of tar appears, after chewing for a while. It gains the intensity of a tame mouthwash (none of that blistering Listerine).

Finish: hazelnut liqueur, hazelnut shells, funky armpits (JS), ganja (JS).

Comment: JS has to repeat those two notes twice: the TWJ boys cannot believe what they hear. They then decide they would probably make more money selling ganja.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, TWJ)

Glenrothes 36yo 1986/2022 (41.4%, The Whisky Jury, Refill Hogshead, C#860002131, 203b, b#6)

Nose: Fraises Tagada. Bunches of flowers follow, then chewy red sweets.

Mouth: mellow, velvety, this has peach nectar, smashed apricots. It picks up strength in the long run and adds gravel to the mix, which is unexpected.

Finish: very, very jammy. Peach jelly, raspberry jelly, strawberry jam.

Comment: I love this, which I hate to admit. I could really do without following Glenrothes on top of all the other distilleries.

Score: strong 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, TWJ)

Ben Nevis 26yo 1998/2025 (53.8 %, The Whisky Jury exclusively bottled for Germany, Refill Hogshead, C#1559, 177b, b#172)

Nose: although much less exuberant than the 1996 offerings, it bears similarities. Crushed strawberries and some unripe gooseberries. The latter confers it a slight bitterness, of course.

Mouth: quaffable, silky. It takes a while for the alcohol to bite a little, at which stage it becomes a little numbing. Still, we get watermelon slices.

Finish: it grows into a proper fruity number, here, full of melon and watermelon. That said, a clear alcohol bite kicks into gear shortly thereafter.

Comment: it has been quite the Ben Nevis parade, at this festival, eh? This one is lovely. It probably deserves 8, but after all the incredible drams we have had, it is hard to justify it.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, TWJ)

Peated Islay Single Malt 31yo 1990/2022 (51.8%, The Whisky Jury bottled for Whisky Age, Refill Barrel, C#4404332, 259b, b#8)

Nose: comforting as a fireplace in a bothy. It should be entirely out of place, in this German sunshine (in a hot tent, no less), yet it works a treat. We see roasted apples take over, only softly smoky, and cigarette ash.

Mouth: smoked-orchard-fruit compote in which a smoker extinguished their cigarette. Never put out your fag in food. There are other things going on, such as hot metal pipes, but they would take more time than I have to discern and dissect.

Finish: a similar mix of roasted fruits and ash, which reminds me of the cast-iron grille used in a fireplace to roast apples.

Comment: excellent. It would possibly score higher in a more-relaxed setting.

Score: 8/10

Okay, there is one last big ticket that GB told us about and that we want to try. Armed with the dram, we go sit in the rafters.

Bowmore 30yo 1963/1993 Anniversary (50%, OB, Oak Casks, b#218)

Nose: herbs come out strongly (sage, rosemary, marjoram), only to give in under the assaults of shy tropical fruits. We have baked mango, papaya, jackfruit. It is not the debauchery of a 1964 distillation, but it is pretty clear all the same. Jellied berries follow suit, carried by an earthy undercurrent. There is a puff of smoke as one tilts the glass. If it is not a surprise that a Bowmore should have a smoky edge, it is unexpected that it should only come at this point.

Mouth: fruit jelly -- raspberry, strawberry, gooseberry. It feels a tad watery, for a second, but that does not last long. The second sip brings drying elderberry behind a bolder, more-powerful attack.

Finish: jammy. We spot jellied bananas, peaches, berries of all kinds, yet also a pronounced earthiness. Desert dirt, farm paths, fertile soil in which vines grow to produce plump grapes. It is earthier and earthier upon repeated quaffing, with blackcurrants, elderberries and an earth that turns bitter and sticky as clay, or even plasticine.

Comment: it is difficult not to let emotions influence the scoring, here, and not only because it is the final hours of the festival. It is a revered bottling that I have been keen to try for a long time, and it is, indeed, outstanding. Does it justify the current price tag of £10k-£12k? A question for each individual taster to answer. For that money, I reckon there are better things to be had, but that is only one old man's opinion.

Score: 10/10

JS: "LDNSRN."

She is right. Life does not suck, right now."

The time has come for goodbyes. Perhaps a couple of farewell drams.

Talisker 15yo b.2026 (57.1%, OB for Dornoch Castle Whisky Bar, Refill American Oak + 2nd Fill Port Seasoned Hogshead, 240b)

Nose: immense. Mineral and saline, it is also peppery (obviously). It really is a mix of ground pepper, concrete dust and salt.

Mouth: surprisingly jammy, it soon folds from an injection of salt water -- tonnes of it. Then, as Keith Flint used to say, the fire starts. Peppers of all colours rise and rise. It properly sears the mouth, this.

Finish: blackberry cough drops, sweet and chewy, are augmented with lots of black pepper.

Comment: very good, if not necessarily my favourite profile. Talisker aficionados will be over the moon with this. Yes, dom666, I am looking at you.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, ST)

Ledaig 19yo 2005/2025 (65.5%, D&M Winchester imported by Scout Drinks, Butt, C#90002, 170b)

Nose: torched farmland, scorched earth, bonfires of manure.

Mouth: marmalade at first, it does not take long to reveal just how hot it is. It is a marmalade set on fire. That is soon joined by more black pepper than even the preceding Talisker had.

Finish: burnt wood, hessian sacks and sulphury fertiliser.

Comment: KCF really selected beautiful casks, even if this is less my personal preference.

Score: 7/10

Alright, this one has been staring at me for a while, let us go crazy.

Springbank 23yo 1965/1989 (50%, R.W. Duthie imported by S. Samaroli Ageing Monography, 660b, b#14)

Nose: incredible depth. Mint crumbles, stewed apricots, lychees, rambutans, mangoes, peaches, persimmons.

Mouth: a symphony of persimmons, peaches and jackfruit, with backing strings by Galia melon, carambola and jojoba.

Finish: insane. Fresh, fruity, long, jammy, juicy, coating, excellent.

Comment: not bad, this. This time, it is definitely because we are in the final sprint, but I get Bowmore eyes from a Springbank. Not sure that has happened before. P.H.W.O.A.R.

Score: 10/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

Another one? If you insist.

Tamdhu 17yo b.1977 (80° Proof, Cadenhead)

Nose: beautiful old-bottle effect. Jammy tin lids and a bit of brine.

Mouth: oh! yeah, this is jammy alright. But then, near the marmalade and stewed fruits, we have lots of tin. It is not merely the lids of the jam jars; it is as if the whole jar was made of tin. And, of course, that has transmuted the jam inside into something else.

Finish: jam stuck to the cast-iron cauldron, a pinch of soot, charred hazel wood.

Comment: how strange that this is the first Cadenhead bottling we try this weekend? There were so many, and yet... Well, no-one got bored. Anyway, this one is amazing and it is sad we have so little time to spend with it. By the way, the earliest such bottlings were filled in 1977. That is also the last year in which alcohol content and volume were only indicated in ° Proof and fl. oz. respectively, as well as the year Cadenhead moved from 47 Netherkirkgate to Golden Square. The former address is written on the label. Three tell-tale signs that this was bottled in 1977.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, Em)

Someone had a good day!

Enough. The exhibitors are packing up.

JS and I join the Swissky Mafia and walk them to their hotel, then to the restaurant, Schwarzer Adler, where we remind them that we are not spending the evening with them, this year. It is time for goodbye.

I will drop off bags at the accommodation, then join another group of merry folks for dinner at Burgkeller.

Bärlauchkartoffeltaler auf Selleriepüree mit gegrilltem Grünen Spargel, dazu Gorgonzolasoße (JS)

Spargelsalat mit Himbeerdressing, dazu karamellisierter Ziegenkäse (me)

Around the table are Germans, Dutch, Italians (pwah! ;-) ), Russians (one of whom lives in Cyprus, just to make things less obvious), Taiwanese, an American and a Belgian. A couple of drams emerge (how could that not be the case?), namely Highland Park d.2005 (59.7%, Duty Paid Sample for C. Dully Selection, Sherry Hogshead, C#37, ca. 300b) and Bunnahabhain 27yo 1989/2017 (48.7%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Hogsheads, C#5858+5859, 250b) (I think), but it is really all about camaraderie -- or, as Savoureur once put it, "seeing old friends and meeting new ones." We speak all the languages represented and enjoy the moment together. We talk about food specialities of the various countries we represent and watch JKr win a rare Japanese pressing of Pink Floyd's Dark Side Of The Moon at auction. And, yes, there is an episode in which one of the Russians, looking for pictures of his bicycle holiday, shows me a video of him walking casually, twice, on glowing embers, then another video of him walking casually and naked into a frozen lake. "And here is video of me fighting bear," JS later adds in a Russian accent. A truly global meeting with nothing but positive vibes. Even if I mercilessly tease the Dutch more than once, I hope they know it is in good spirit.

All good things must end, and it is time to bid everyone goodbye. "Shall we see each other in Milan?" "No, I'm not going. What about Singapore?" One would think these are all wealthy jet-setters, but they are not. Just regular people consumed by a voracious interest in whisky.

26/04/2026 The Whisky Fair (Day 2 -- Part 1)

It is much less crowded, today. It also feels more relaxed altogether. And that is good news, because the excesses of last night are not yet forgotten. Astoundingly enough, some of our co-tasters from last night went to Villa Konthor after the tasting. Some went to several bars. A few are less fresh and proud than we are, this morning.

We decide to start by ticking the boxes we left blank yesterday.

But first, I have an errand to run. Back to Maltbarn!

There is no-one at the stand, which will help. Only the boss himself. I remind him I left the stand yesterday after purchasing A, B and C. I add that, when I unwrapped them in the evening, they were A, C and H. I show him H and explain it is a nice whisky, but I already have it, having purchased it last year. He seems very relieved: his stock-take last night showed a missing H and an extra B. We simply swap bottles and one can see anxiety leave both of us. Phew!

Now, on to the drams.

Ben Nevis 29yo 1996/2026 (48.9%, Thompson Bros., Refill Oloroso Butt, C#1497, 436b)

Nose: it is a bit mute. Waxy dark grapes, maybe.

Mouth: big and powerful, almost too concentrated to be enjoyable.

Finish: long, bold and rather wine-y.

Comment: JS was really upset to miss this one when it came out. Today, we rejoice that it is not really a profile either of us looks for. At the same time, the cranes on the label are irresistible.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, ST)

Glengarioch 1975/1990 (46%, Brae Dean Int. imported by Moon Import The Birds, Oak Barrel, C#5910, 600b, b#278)

Nose: mesmerising old-bottle effect. Follow marinated meat ready for the barbecue, with thyme and rosemary. Then, we have concrete dust, asbestos, embrocation, plasters, bandages. It has gherkins at second nose, without that causing any negativity.

Mouth: phwoar! Embers, rosemary, concrete dust and marmalade slathered onto the whole. This is Überkomplex.

Finish: at once welcoming and austere, it rolls out the marinated-herbs carpet with a veil of smoke. It is highly acrid, and produces more asbestos than jam.

Comment: superlative dram. On any other day, I may score it higher.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, ST)

Have we peaked too soon? I boldly declare the dram of the festival (clearly forgetting some of yesterday's discoveries). For how long?

Obfuscating the bottle number
to protect the innocent

Bowmore 1969/1978 (58 GL, OB imported by Fecchio & Frassà for 15th. Anniversary of Monica brothers, Sherry Cask, C#6636, 300b)

Nose: immediate Bowmore eyes. While JS tries to capture them on camera, I remain spellbound by the ethereal fruitiness of this nose. It suffers not one bit from its softly-metallic edge.

Mouth: just how is this possible? Yellow maracuja, carambola, papaya, unripe pineapple and a lick of tin are supremely augmented with a pinch of soot.

Finish: as Katy Perry would say: roar! It is powerful, yet precise, sharp as a blade and so fruity it seems unreal.

Comment: new dram of the festival. This may be even better than yesterday's 1969/1979.

Score: 12/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

Clynelish 12yo (43 Gradi, OB imported and distributed by M. Di Chiano, b.1970s)

Nose: soot. Crystalline soot. It has brine and distant pickles too, but the soot dominates.

Mouth: drying, ashy, burning, sizzling. It is also full of soot, yet nothing sticks out; all notes are harmoniously balanced. And, at 43%, it does not lack power in the slightest.

Finish: apricots rolled in soot and white ash.

Comment: this is a masterpiece. It reminds me of the one for Giaccone that I obtained from the same person as this.

Score: 10/10 (Thanks for the dram, elskling)

Enough killeries, for a second. Time to pay the Swisskies a visit. Savoureur is on the stage and insists we try one of his samples.

It is made more difficult by the fact he cannot find it in his bag of tricks.

Blind sample

Nose: waxy as hell. Ferns (JS), tarragon (JS), stewed berries.

Mouth: hints of gas, rancio and berries again.

Finish: boldly fruity and waxy, we find Mirabelle plums and fruit jellies.

Comment: delicious. We fail to identify it. Upon reveal, I am delighted that it is one I have wanted to try for a long time.

Score: 8/10

Glenburgie 33yo d.1949 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice) (Thanks for the dram, Savoureur)

Ichiro's Malt & Grain b.2025 (48%, OB Limited Edition distributed by Japan Import System)

Comment: too rushed to take notes. It is as well made as any Chichibu, really.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, GN)

Highland Park d.2005 (59.7%, Duty Paid Sample for C. Dully Selection, Sherry Hogshead, C#37, ca. 300b)

Nose: this one is also quite waxy and fruity, with but a smidge of smoke.

Mouth: chalky fruit juice enhanced with honey, poured on burning weeds.

Finish: 'splosion of delicate tropical fruits.

Comment: slow start, excellent arrival. When this is bottled and released, it is well worth seeking out.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

HS recognises us from the tasting last night.

HS: "Do you like tequila?"
JS: "Not really."
HS [fetches this ceramic decanter]: "This one is special. It is painted by orphans in Mexico. Each bottle is more or less unique. When the decanter is empty, my wife uses it for olive oil."

I have pictures of child labour flashing through my head. JS is worried that this tequila is going to wreck her palate for the rest of the day. Good intention, but we are puzzled by the gesture.

Laphroaig 31yo 1993/2025 (42.4%, C.Dully Selection, Hogshead, C#6793, 197b, b#194)

Nose: barbecue and spare ribs pave the way for TCP and guaiacol. Aromatics move to the foreground, after a moment.

Mouth: yup, spare ribs on the barbecue and a herbs marinade.

Finish: char and chargrilled meat.

Comment: look, it is good, okay? I do not resonate with it today is all.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

Let us get off the stage.

Bruichladdich 17yo 2008/2026 Cask Le Sens #7 (52,7%, Claxton Joint Bottling for Cask Le Sens & Highlander Inn Cask Le Sens 5th Anniversary Bottling, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel, C#2590, 254b)

Nose: melon, peach, apricot.

Mouth: more fruits, which is unexpected. Melon, peach, physalis.

Finish: glowing (JS). It has hot wax and a plaster-y death.

Comment: lovely.

Score: strong 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, TM)

Ben Nevis 18yo 2007/2025 (48.4%, Highlander Inn Maggie's Collection, C#10154, 278b)

Nose: orchard fruits are in the shadow of leather, suede sofas, then chocolate milk and chicory infusion.

Mouth: roasted apples, chocolate pudding. It quickly becomes frankly drying, almost chalky.

Finish: long, bright. Yellow fruit and a spoonful of mud.

Comment: beautiful. JS is not enthusiastic at first, but likes it more with each sip.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, TM)

Glen Grant 17yo  2007/2024 (53.4%, Highlander Inn, C#70053141, 276b, b#269)

Nose: floral and ethereal until citrus rinds enter the scene (oranges, not lemons).

Mouth: more of that citrus-y goodness, pink grapefruit, blush orange.

Finish: it is a textbook Glen Grant, ripe with citrus zest, peels and segments that build an effective balance of acidity and bitterness.

Comment: excellent.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, TM)

TM: "I need to go wee."

He adds the gesture, which cracks us up immensely.

Another few loose ends need tying up at another stand.

Where I finally manage a picture of GN's
best shirt of the festival

Allt-A-Bhainne 28yo 1997/2025 (58.8%, Scout Drinks, Hogshead, C#3498, 127b)

Nose: fresh, it has nectar-filled flowers leading to chewy red sweets. More flowers come back soon enough.

Mouth: flower nectar, thick, coating, sticky as peach nectar.

Finish: super long, it offers more yellow flowers and cut fruits.

Comment: succulent. Good thing they do not sell on site, or I would leave this festival even poorer and heavier.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, KCF)

Ardmore 15yo 2010/2026 (60.3%, Scout Drinks, Barrel, C#804044, 166b)

Nose: this one is very earthy, reminiscent of the contaminated soil on an industrial estate, for some reason

Mouth: it is a trifle medicinal, here. Iso Betadine, tincture of iodine, Merbromin. There may be piping-hot apple peels coming out of the oven, but that is how fruity it gets, i.e. not very.

Finish: cauterising. It remains firmly medicinal, with old bandages and dried-up tincture of iodine. Not much of the original earthy onslaught subsists.

Comment: another top drop approved by KC.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, KCF)

Time for food.

Today, we stay on the main floor, where the cafeteria is serving sandwiches.

GG, whom we met at the tasting last night, passes by. He pulls bottles out of his pockets like a magician pulls rabbits out of a hat. I only want to try one. He pours...

Garreau Bas-Armagnac d.1965 (45%, cask sample, Barrique, C#P04)

Nose: wonderfully fruity, of course, this is an avalanche of raisins, prunes in syrup, sultanas, currants of all colours. We are clearly in brandy territory and I can hear no-one complain.

Mouth: the deluge of dried currants continues. Sweet without being vulgar, raisin-y without being a caricature or a one-trick pony. It is plainly delicious. It turns warmer and drier at second sip.

Finish: much earthier, now, tertiary, it pours the water used to rehydrate raisins, mushroom cooking water simmering in the pan, then prunes in syrup, squashed raisins and elderberries.

Comment: as a malternative, one could do far, far worse. This is excellent.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, GG)

Aight. let us eat and carry on.

My Brie-und-Hirnbeeren Bagel

JS's Räuchelachs Croissant

25/04/2026 The Whisky Fair (Day 1 -- Part 4) Rarities for Charity

This year, JS and I are attending the Rarities for Charity tasting with elskling and LsR. OO is here too, as are thirty-or-so others. Gérard Hofmann is hosting with Henrik Schmidt. Patrick de Schultess is busy elsewhere, so he is not there.

J. & G. Grant from the Glenlivet District 5yo d.1967 (40%, Grant Bonding imported and distributed by Girolamo-Luxardo)

Nose: austere, it has lots of cardboard, pickled gherkins, hay. JS finds OBE and toasted cereals in an old library. A cardboard box used to transport vanilla.

Mouth: same cardboard action, perhaps leather and, if any fruit, it is bone-dry strawberry slices. elskling finds it mineral.

Finish: cereal-y, a bit raw. We may find vanilla biscuits (JS) or digestive biscuits. It is so chock-full of cereals it could also just be Horlicks.

Comment: good, provided one likes cereals. How unlikely is it that we would try two of those J. & G. Grant in less than a year, eh?

Score: 8/10

Starter is served.

Spargelsuppe

Tomatin 28yo 1982/2010 (55.3%, Scotch Single Malt Circle, Sherry Cask, C#29, 574b)

Nose: this is entirely taken over by the Sherry cask. Fruits do kick into gear, fortunately. It is a compact and almost intimidating nose, though. Last to appear are crayons and dried peach slices.

Mouth: och! Pickled red onions, pearl onions from a jar. That recedes to deliver unripe berries, but it remains a big, scary Sherried dram.

Finish: creamy and fruity, it has lots of berries, yet that is sadly hampered by a sour, briny note.

Comment: considering how difficult these bottlings are to get hold of, it is always interesting to try one. I cannot say I am entranced by this particular one, all the same.

Score: 6/10

The next bottle is presented by the Scotch Single Malt Circle ambassador herself. She explains in detail how the founder introduced the Scotch Malt Whisky Society into Germany who gave her a choice in the 1990s: to pay a large sum of money and continue or to jog on. She did not have said large sum of money and parted ways with the SMWS, but carried on pushing liquid, now with another club, the SSMC.

I had no knowledge of that story and welcome the informative introduction.

Clynelish 9yo 1990/1999 (57.4%, Scotch Single Malt Circle, C#3210)

Nose: mint paste applied on waxy fruits. It has spent wick too. Honestly, it is not perfectly balanced, out of this freshly-opened bottle, but it is promising. The second nose has vanilla custard and a sweet shortcrust.

Mouth: mmmh! Wax, yellow fruits punctuated with a lot of pepper and a pinch of ash. The waxy fruits probably come out most, but it is also rather strong, a sensation increased by the presence of white pepper. Water tones that down and lets the fruits shine brighter.

Finish: dry, hot, waxy and fruity. It has a lot of ash propping up yellow fruits (plum, Mirabelle plum, peach). Water makes this softer and fruitier, and increases the presence of yellow and white fruits, which eclipse wax and wick almost entirely.

Comment: this is a belter. Were it not for the imbalance on the palate at first, it would score higher.

Score: 8/10

Henrik goes geeky-and-three-quarters for the next bottle. He tells us (too much about) how to date a bottle of White Horse, how the various sovereigns on the seal give the era, which label goes with which bottle engraving, how the brand name evolved, what the thickness of the tin foil tells us et caetera. Twice, the audience claps to put a stop to the logorrhea; twice, he tells us he has more to say. Being a geek myself, I am torn: what he tells us is immensely interesting; on the other hand, we have a strict deadline. I also notice he is losing the crowd at pace.

Tin-foil stories.

On the right, a 1980s bottling.

On the left, a 1940s bottling.

In fact, the explanation takes so long that JS's right-hand-side neighbour pulls out a bottle from his bag and starts pouring it. "It has the white horse on the label; I thought it would be interesting to try them side by side."

Main course enters at the same time for total overload. I elect to eat first.

Pasta with mushrooms and courgettes

LsR: "I am reminded that only the French can make bread."
tOMoH: "I am reminded that the French abroad are insufferable."

Glen Elgin 12yo (no ABV, OB, no bottle size, SC803)

Nose: hay and muesli punctuated by yellow fruits.

Mouth: a lovely old bottling, it has lemon zest in cream custard. Citrus rises and rises.

Finish: soft and citrus-y, the hay note is a little too pronounced for me.

Comment: always nice to try these old dusties.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, T)

The Blended Scotch Whisky of the White Horse Cellar (86.80° Proof, White Horse Distillers imported by Browne Vintners, b#AU915749, b. ca. 1940s)

Nose: it smells well integrated, but also a bit mass-produced. We have suede and hay, I guess.

Mouth: soft, it continues dishing out suede, now with leather and corduroy cushions.

Finish: easy, it has a lick of leather, dry hay and horse's hair (or is that the power of suggestion?)

Comment: just like the one we had earlier this month, this is fairly nondescript and not worthy of the reputation it enjoys in some circles, in my opinion. And I that it contains Malt Mill does not change my opinion.

Score: 7/10

After spending too long on the first four drams, we pick up the pace.

Lochindaal 12yo 2010/2022 (49.9%, The Finest Malts for DramOff, Bourbon Barrel, C#4395, 72b)

Nose: roasted fruits and faint smoke.

Mouth: sweet, porridge-y, it is also acidic, fruity and farm-y to an extent. Some find it peaty, but I do not. It does become salty at second sip, on the other hand.

Finish: long and bold, dry, smoky, farm-y in a mud cake way.

Comment: unremarkable. There is nothing wrong with it; I simply do not find it impressive.

Score: 6/10

Irish Single Malt 28yo 1989/2017 Vol.1 (56.2%, Limited Whisky Investment The Monkey Series in co-operation with Sansibar, Bourbon Cask, 164b, 16/05058)

Nose: mango purée, melted papaya, squashed persimmon, butternut purée (JS), then baked puff pastry and stewed peaches.

Mouth: wonderful. Mango turnovers followed by hot metal baking trays and baked satsumas. This has 'pastry' written all over it.

Finish: lots of hot turnovers slightly tainted by the metal tray they were baked on. It is a bit unbalanced, here, too liberal with the metal, if very acceptable.

Comment: we are nit-picking. It is not one of the great Irish, but it is a great whiskey. By the way, the bottle code suggests it was bottled in 2016, whatever the label reads.

Score: 8/10

JS: "It is lacking in maracuja."

Dessert.

Tiramisù

Glenfarclas 12yo (45%, OB for F.W. Hempel Metallurgical GmbH)

Nose: another one that is full of fruity turnovers, with baked mangoes and apricots, smashed papayas and melting persimmons.

Mouth: creamy and fruity, it has a bite alright. It is hot, metallic and turns acidic with time.

Finish: pretty acidic here too, it has sour fruit jellies, followed by a faint bitterness of unripe fruit.

Comment: good.

Score: 8/10

JS: "It's a complete Ball-indall-ache."

I pull out empty sample bottles, as I know I will not finish the line-up intact and I do want to enjoy the drams, at some point. elskling sees my Post-Its.

elskling: "Qu'est-ce que c'est que ce travail de cochon? Here, take one of my labels!"

A bottle comes out of nowhere, delaying us further.

Glenturret 29yo 1989/2019 (44.7%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Hogshead, C#238, 253b, b#112)

Nose: grout, mortar, crumbly Korean pear. It is chalky indeed, and I find that really challenging, at this point.

Mouth: big and lively, it has some fruits, but especially a lot of horsepower. Later on, we detect rocket and apricot. Aprocket?

Finish: rocket is right! Peppery and bitter as fuck. Spinach, rocket, peach stones. There are vague hints of apricot, but they are easily missed.

Comment: not sure why anyone thought it was a good idea to slide this one here.

Score: 6/10 (Thanks for the dram, Babelfisch42)

We are now so late and I am starting to feel the effect of alcohol so much that JS and I decide to skip the next dram. Fortunately, I have empty samples, so we will try it later.

Balvenie 32yo 1966/1998 (42.1%, OB Vintage Cask, C#6432, 264b, b#36)

Springbank d.1963 (46%, OB imported by Preiss Import, b. ca.1985)

Nose: we go stratospheric. This has an incredible depth. With every new sniff, it keeps rolling out more fruits (ripe plums, Mirabelle, greengages) and marzipan. The source simply will not dry up.

Mouth: perfect balance of fruit, herbs, ginger and varnish. Not sure how that reads, but it is harmonious on the palate.

Finish: incredible finish.

Comment: I will need to spend more time with this. I am no longer in the right state to express my appreciation.

Score: 9/10

GH: "1963 is a rare vintage."
PhG: "Great vintage."
GH: "Yeah, for those born in 1963. Not as good as those born in 1966, but shit happens."

We are more or less kicked out. We made it alive. Just.

Ambitious tasting. The selection only had things that most of us would not have been able to try anywhere else. That some were less my thing than others is irrelevant: they were indeed rare, and that is what was promised. The food was excellent (yes, even the bread) and the company relaxed and friendly.

Personally, I thought two things could be improved: the introduction of each bottle was a bit loose in places, which tried the patience of some. As said, being a geek myself, I found the flood of information interesting, but I would have preferred a better balance between information and time-keeping. The second point is the attendees shoehorning their own bottles into the line-up. It comes from a very kind intention (they want to share), but the effect is rarely what they hope for. Instead, it disrupts, distracts, delays, and sometimes destroys the rest of the line-up (remember that London Whisky Club tasting, during which a generous customer offered an unplanned Millburn Rare Malt at 61.9% right before the planned Banff at 43%?) The hosts worked hard to build a line-up that works; it is inconsiderate at best to kibosh that line-up with an additional bottle.

Ultimately, fun was had. Tomorrow morning will be difficult.