19/08/2017 Politics

Long time since we had a tasting on these shores, but today, we correct that.
jazzpianofingers, OB, PS and JS join me for a political tasting.

Soundtrack: LinnaMuusikud - Põhjataevalaulud
The guests take a while to arrive. So much so that the first CD ends when we start, and the second begins. jazzpianofingers jokes that it sounds like a lift-off and signals the start of the tasting. Topically, it is:

Soundtrack: Lustmord - Rising

Also, it took an hour to build the MONSTER line-up

For his second appearance, jazzpianofingers did away with the
"I don't want to take notes" nonsense. He came armed to the teeth

Bain's (43%, OB imported by Distell (Europe) Ltd, LG5 29 J 15) (PS): PS explains that, "most politicians are the Bain of my life." It is going to be a long day. Nose: banana, plantain, peach candle (jazzpianofingers), artificial peach flavouring, peach syrup (PS). This nose is sweet, with candyfloss and sweetened strawberry. Mouth: banana, plantain again, peaches in syrup, corn syrup. Finish: corn on the cob, sweet corn, steamed plantain, toasted vanilla (jazzpianofingers). This is a good apéritif, soft and sweet, yet not too much. I had this South African at a festival, glad to try it in better circumstances. 7/10

OB sneezes: "I'm allergic to this!"
tOMoH: "Not surprising: have you ever met a nice South African?"

Michael Inch-Gove-r 20yo 1990/2011 (46%, Angus Dundee for The Whisky Castle Cask Collection No. 15, American Oak Cask, C#6987, 264b) (tOMoH): this is a souvenir from a Speyside trip, a few years ago. I fear it is a bit of a backstabber. ;-) Nose: minty strawberries, if that makes sense. Peach skin, crushed raspberry, then a whiff of earthy mushrooms and forest undergrowth. Vine, freshly-cleaned laundry, then chemical fruit flavouring. Mouth: soft, mellow, almost silky, with a discreet touch of pepper, candyfloss, peach nectar and satsuma. Finish: long, sweet and comforting, with lots of fruit, almond paste, sweet caramel, toffee. It also has something quite bitter that I cannot pinpoint. This is fruity as hell! It is always interesting to confront holiday memories. I was convinced this would be less impressive than when I tried it at the shop. Quite the opposite! Almost Lochside-like, it is. 9/10

PS: "I was really trying to fit a Glen Moray in the theme.
tOMoH: "Theres-or May?"

Food makes its way to the table: artisan bread, dry sausage, olives and an Italian cheese, all courtesy of OB.

Spirit of Freedom 30yo b.2014 (46%, J. & A. Mitchell & Co for the 700th Anniversary of the Battle of Bannockburn, 14/246, 2014b) (jazzpianofingers): this was bottled as a celebration of Scottish independence (in 1314). Nose: gravel-y, sooty, but also rather fruity, with dates, apricots, nuts, strawberry shavings and dark grapes. The whole is complemented by faded leather. Mouth: strangely, it has bubble gum flavouring too, as did the previous dram. This is more powerful, with hay and chemical bubble gum flavour. It is acidic, with lemon and mandarin juice -- lemon, especially. Finish: a citrus kick, at this point. Lemon and mandarin peels, cloaked in a veil of smoke. Beautiful, this! 8/10

jazzpianofingers (to JS): "Look! Our phones are sitting together!"
tOMoH: "Yeah, one is wearing a burqa, the other one a niqab!"

Soundtrack: Phelios - Astral Unity

Next up is a double-take on Nick Clegg-ellachie.

44.53 22yo d.1989 Lip-smacking, chewy and chunky (51.5%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 279b) (JS): nose: nutty, peppery, it almost has an old man's scent (though not mine): peppery colone and sweat. Cardboard (PS, selling dreams), pear (PS), then tobacco. The sweat is definitely there, as well as a touch of rubber. Mouth: dry leather first, then it becomes jammy. A bit like biting into an overly-done toast, then jam. It also supplies the gentle bitterness of rubber. Finish: it is now jam on cardboard toast, horsehair, decaying fruit and still distant rubber. Wonderful. 8/10

vs.

Efficiency

44.56 23yo d.1989 Sweet and sour creative tension (51.8%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 300b) (JS): nose: a lot fruitier, this one. It has blueberry, jasmine, flapjacks, and a weird note of leather in a tannery. Mouth: intense, with sponge cake, baked apples, baked plums and a pinch of pepper. Finish: warming, fat and intense. The finish has metal and fruit, as well as fruit stone. 8/10

JS opened those two together, two and a half years ago. They were both good, yet seemed much more similar in character, at least, that is how I remember them. Today, they feel very different. Both shine in their own right. One is more immediate, while the other is more austere.

PS: "As a tasting experience, this is David Cameron's worst nightmare: two Nick Clegg yell-at-mes."

David Cameron-bridge 33yo b.2017 (48.7%, Cadenhead World Whiskies 175th Anniversary, Bourbon Hogshead, 186b) (PS): nose: green banana and sweat, industrial glue, yet that is far away in the back. Mouth: hot plantains. This is strangely green and lacks fruit, a bit. At the second sip, sweet fruit comes up, hot custard and green pepper. It is a silky mouth, mind you. Finish: yes, hot custard and green pepper shavings. 7/10

vs.

David Cameron-bridge 25yo 1979/2005 (59.9%, Duncan Taylor Rare Auld, C#3523, 194b, b#92) (me): nose: PVA glue (primary-school glue), slightly metallic bakery scents -- croisant dough on stainless-steel trays. Coconut yoghurt, ether and other alochol-based disinfectants. This is not for the faint-hearted. Mouth: hot and thin, with white spirit and disinfectant again, as well as very hot croissant dough. Finish: dark fruit, berries, a lot of bakery shenanigan. Wonderful. 8/10

I prefer the 1979, today.

PS: "David Cameron, whom you want to throw off a bridge."
tOMoH: "Mine is obviously Nicola Sturge-Camer-on."
JS: "I suppose they both were in a hogshead?"

jazzpianofingers: "You need to leave early? Are you going to the dabbing convention?"

Tony Bal-blair 22yo d.1975 (46%, Direct Wines Limited First Cask, C#7285, b#36) (OB): nose: olive-flavoured body butter, lemon juice, then all sorts of essential oils. After a few sips, a little smoke comes through -- probably because I know to look for it. Mouth: sweet, sugary, with candied olives, candied pistachios, rehydrated, dried apricots and figs (jazzpianofingers). Finish: wow! A dropkick of smoke, all of a sudden. All the fruits from the mouth are there too (dried apricots, dried figs, plums). This is amazing. Great mix of fruit and smoke. 9/10

PS: "My problem with Balblair is they take their orders from the Bush just outside the distillery."

Soundtrack: The Sisters of Mercy - Floodland

PS: "You can't have a bad break-up with a goth. They might commit suicide, but you're not fussed."

76.55 10yo 1996/2007 Grapefruits and geraniums (60.5%, SMWS Society Cask) (PS): this Mortlach is Theresa May's whisky, PS tells us... "for her Mort-ifying lach of a majority." Nose: ink and earth, putty (JS). Perfume soon comes out, then the strength makes me sneeze. "It is a delicate, fruity Mortlach," he said. Yellow flowers in the spring. Mouth: burning hot, regardless of what the punmaster says. It does have some fruit (quite a lot of candied lemons) and ginger (jazzpianofingers). Finish: candied citrus again (satsumas, mandarins) and lots of ginger. 7/10

jazzpianofingers: "The yellow cherries -- you know, not syphillis, the other one. Physalis."

As expected, the gang focused heavily on UK politics (with the farce it is today, who wouldn't focus on that). I pour the next to balance it out with a foreign character. I will only realise tomorrow that it easily spells Labour too...

Shinzo Abe-rlour 23yo 1989/2013 (54.9%, Cadenhead Small Batch, Bourbon Hogsheads, 522b) (me): nose: as whacky as I remembered it, metallic and herbaceous, with sage, marjoram, gunmetal, geranium stems, tea bags, earth in a pinewood forest, and then blue oranges. The oranges soon become ripe, rather than rotten. Mouth: soft mouthfeel, good balance, with the softness and acidity of orange juice. the notes of metal and herbs are almost gone. Finish: again, citrus juice, though this time, it is joined by chocolate milk, hints of lime and a bit of crushed, dried sage. Lovely drop, still. 8/10

We go out on the terrace, as jazzpianofingers takes a leave.

Soundtrack: Morgenstern - Cold

Macduff 10yo 2000/2010 (50%, Douglas Laing The Old Malt Cask Advanced Sample, Hogshead, C#6570) (PS): it is politics. They Make-duff laws. Ahem. Nose: buttery as fook. Obiously a mislabelled Glenrothes. PS disagrees. He is drunk. I am soberish. He is cunt-ent (his words, not mine). Avocado paste and butter, butter, butter. Whipped cream being whipped, leather, a milking station, freshly-cut grass, in the distance. Mouth: quite close to the nose, with fresh butter and plant sap. This feels quite strong. And so buttery. It has dry orange peels. Finish: the strongest point of this dram, with lots of flower sap, Virginia tobacco and orange juice. A bit shaky, this, although I do like the finish. 6/10

Talking about the blender's nosing glass championed by whisky consultant Angus MacRaild, we note how it is impossible to drink from it with dignity:
OB: "I remember he looked a bit like a prick, when drinking."
PS: "And then he took the glass out."

JS, in a pairing mood, presents Ed & Dave.

Ed Mili-burn 26yo 1979/2005 (58.1%, Signatory Vintage Cask Strength Collection, Refill Butt, C#26, 531b, b#40) (JS): nose: leather, horsehair, beard, putty and a shy farmyard. This is really austere. It is also really powerful. Later, Turkish delights show up, coated in lots of powdered sugar. Mouth: strong, leathery, with horsehair and orange on steroids. This is pretty aggressive. Finish: woah! Unbelievable mix of earth, steam-punk smoke and dark oranges. This is austere in an old-school fashion. 9/10

vs.

Dave Mili-burn 25yo 1976/2002 (58.9%, Douglas Laing for The Whisky Shop, 276b) (JS): nose: smoke, hot metals, then the trademark oranges, greasy rags at a mechanic's. Mouth: orange-y, with more hot metal, tinned mandarins -- sod it, this is amazing. Finish: clay, earth, a hint of rubber, dried orange. Formidable old Millburn. 9/10

I confirm Millburn is my favourite Inverness distillery.

OB: "I would give the Whisky Shop one an edge. But both are Angus MacRaild-glassworthy.

Soundtrack: Geinoh Yamashirogumi - Akira - Original Soundtrack

tOMoH: "Have you seen this film, OB?"
OB: "Yes, eight months ago."
tOMoH: "What did you think?"
OB: "My girlfriend was pleased, because I said I preferred Ghost in the Shell; both the film and the music. But it is like comparing those two Millburns: they are both Angus MacRaild-glassworthy. If films could fit into a glass. And Angus perhaps can do that."



Double-take on Inver-Gordon Brown.

Inver-Gordon Brown 43yo 1973/2016 (52.3%, Whiskybroker, Bourbon Barrel, C#1300000024) (OB): nose: grassy, mentholated, almost eucalyptus-like (PS), coconut shavings on apple tart, caramel on custard, steamed banana, rolled in coconut shavings. Mouth: warm coconut yoghurt, lukewarm custard and hot pasty with a drop of raspberry juice. Finish: herbs (sage, marjoram, dry basil) and toasted coconut. Later, raspberries show up, amongst gentle horsehair. Lovely. 8/10

Inver-Gordon Brown 43yo 1973/2016 (52.2%, Whiskybroker, Bourbon Barrel, C#1300000034) (OB): nose: much dryer, it still has bakery scents, but also quite a lot of rubber, now. The nose feels much stronger. It has dry wood planks and walnut oil. Mouth: it bizarrely feels almost watery, here, with some polished wood, putty, balsa wood, vanilla and custard. Finish: long and vanilla-laden. It is not super-memorable, but very good. 7/10

I prefer the first, today. I find both lack the blackcurrant I am so fond of in Invergordon.

Soundtrack: Morgenstern / Monokrom - Live @ IWTBF 041203

Cognac Grande Champagne Tiffon Très Vieille Réserve (40%, OB Limited Release) (jazzpianofingers): jazzpianofingers left a while ago, now. He poured us this before leaving, which is nice of him, but did not say how it is related to the theme. jazzpianofingers, if you read us, please post a comment. Nose: some menthol and lots and lots of fruit -- candied angelica the loudest, with also candied orange, cake decoration (PS). Liquorice? Perhaps, or a bit of rubber, leather handbags, tobacco. Mouth: silky, milky and fruity (squashed grapes, plums). So smooth! ;-) Finish: prunes, sultanas, dried figs, plums. Really though, the sultanas dominate. It almost tastes like a Pedro Ximénez sherry. Amazing Cognac, oscillating between 8 and 9. Tonight, it is 8/10

3.79 14yo 1989/2003 In your face, out of doors (53.3%, SMWS Society Cask) (PS): PS delivers the goods, today -- and the bads. Once more, the connection is far-fetched: when they built Portcullis, they ran out of doors. Geddit? Look at the name of the bottling again. Yes. I thought so too. Nose: turnip purée, hard-cheese rind, dry clay, dry cow dung, a cows stable, quite a lot of smoke, and lots and lots of earth. Farmyard, and even some barley, in the back. Finally, vanilla. Mouth: big, smoky and mustardy, with a drop of fruit juice (apricot?). This is pretty powerful. Finish: more simple, here, it has lots of smoke, farmyard notes, then earthy fruits (apples, fermented apricots, grapefruits and roasted pineapple). This is nice. 8/10

Epic tasting. We finish around 23:00, giving an average of 2.375 drams/hour.

06/10/2013 The Whisky Show 2013 (Day 2 -- Part 2)

North British and pudding

The story started here.

We decide to go for food earlier, today. We do well: the brasserie is a lot less busy than yesterday. We all take the fish pie, which is tastier than yesterday, as are the vegetables. I also ask for more than the default portion and get it without any resistance. Pudding as dessert. While eating, we have one dram each.

From Diageo (we never manage to see Colin Dunn on Sunday, unfortunately):

Brora 35yo b.2012 (48.1%, OB, Refill American Oak Casks, 1566b): missed my chance to try it last year. This time it is mine. Nose: farmyard galore, animal scents, manure. Candied lemons too and vinegar, though not quite balsamic. Mouth: yep, the vinegar tickle, balanced and sparkly, yet creamy. Finish: pleasantly bold, with late-night barbecue and burnt herbs. Very nice indeed, if overpriced. 8/10

Talisker 35yo 1977/2012 (54.6%, OB, 3090b): dom666 being a fan, it would be a shame to miss out. Nose: coastal, coastal, coastal. This needs to be drunk in Talisker Bay while dom666's trousers are drying (a long story involving a tumble in the sea, a broken camera and years of mockery). Salty, windy, wildish. Very little pepper here, which makes me enjoy it more than, say, the 10-year-old. Mouth: oh! yeah, lots and lots and lots of salt and sand. The lapping of the sea. Finish: finally some black pepper, but under control. Loads of salt and all sorts of maritime stuff -- fishing nets, rowing boats etc. Very good. What the fuck is it with the mini-pourings at the Diageo stand, though? 1cl for a dream dram? We pay for this, crikey! Not pleasantly impressed, here. 8/10

From Douglas Laing:

North British 50yo 1962/2013 (53.3%, Douglas Laing Director's Cut, Refill ex-Sherry Butt, C#DL9783, 150b): nose: bakery, of course. Vanillaed dough, varnish -- how rich this is, whilst still rather mellow. Mouth: oochie-mama! Lovely balance of jam, croissant, butter dough, cake with a bit of spice or even wood. Finish: long, comforting, with gingerbread and spicy shortbread. 8/10

I remember all the banging

We stop at Balvenie's stand for a couple. The cooper workshop is in full effect and the banging is very loud. But we have strong will. For limited result, though: the advertised 30 year-old is not there.

Balvenie 12yo Single Barrel (47.8%, OB,  C#12758): this one replaces the beloved 15yo. Nose: sugary, probably less complex than the 15, but quite alright. Some punch. Mouth: slightly bitter milk. Almond milk it is, then. Finish: yep, slightly bitter almond milk, simple and efficient. 7/10

Balvenie 14yo Caribbean Cask (43%, OB, Rum Finish): this one replaces the Golden Cask, which replaced the Cuban Selection. Nose: bags of sugar, coconut, toasted coconut, milk. Mouth: milky indeed. Almond milk, perhaps. Finish: loads of coconut again, not as rough as rum finishes can be. Very easy to drink, very modern. 7/10

Nose: fish, carrot and parsnip. Mouth: bechamel, seafood, ...

Finally we stop at Gordon & MacPhail for a while. No Braeval -- another one that was advertised on the list.

Royal Brackla 1997/2012 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, Refill ex-Sherry Cask): nose: meat, coq-au-vin, not my thing at all. Mouth: much better, with faint caramelised, red onions, jam, water. Finish: yes, caramelised, red onions, burger sauce. Unimpressed. 5/10

Balblair 20yo 1991/2012 Crozes-Hermitage Finish (45%, Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection, 2000b): nose: the right side of red wine. Mouth: smooth and balanced. Finish: some tannins, but it is not annoying. Quite nice, this. 6/10

Tullibardine 225 b.2013 (43%, OB, Sauternes Finish): nose: bold and syrupy, the wine influence is obvious, but remains pleasant. Mouth: liqueur, syrupy, sticky. Finish: more syrupy things with milk chocolate. Yeah, good.

Tullibardine 20yo (43%, OB): nose: orchard fruit, freshly-cut grass. Mouth: apple juice, flat peary, a vague bitterness. Finish: strange pear liqueur, custard. This is lovely! 7/10

Tullibardine 25yo (43%, OB): nose: wider than the 20, richer. Toffee, pear compote. Mouth: nice and fruity, but also rather watery. Some spices emerge after a bit. Finish: jammy and watery with a coffee feel. Not bad, but I prefer the 20.

The Dewar stand is right across and I want to try an Aberfeldy. I mix it up and end up trying some blends. Blergh.

Dewar's 18yo Founders Reserve (43%, Dewar's): nose: nuts, but not very assertive. Mouth: easy and smooth, watery, even. Vague hints of nuts. Finish: smooth and easy again with a touch of milk chocolate. A bit indistinct, but certainly not unpleasant.

Superb blend

Dewar's Signature (40%, Dewar's): this is a deluxe blend to celebrate a now-retired master blender. Nose: neatly-polished leather belts, dates, figs, interesting. Mouth: full-bodied, but gentle. Very pleasant, yes! Wax, honey, milk chocolate. Finish: very round, mellow, polished, with even blood orange in the back. An all-round winner, this one. Superb blend. Glad I tried it.

Aberfeldy 21yo (40%, OB, L12257ZAB03): nose: orange and cinnamon. Mouth: more orange, sweet marmalade, apricot compote. Finish: more of the same, well balanced and just right, if not very adventurous. 8/10

Three days of tasting are starting to take their toll, as the ever more simplistic notes above show. A quick stroll to Eaux de Vie to stretch a bit... and a stop to tick a box.

Gimme gimme gimme Mackmyra for breakfast

Mackmyra Bruks (41.4%, OB): never had Mackmyra before. The Swedish hostess's English is a bit hesitant, which seals the deal for this expression. Nose: lemon, a little coffee, though we are near the coffee machine when I finally nose this, so it is hard to smell anything else. Mouth: lemon curd, lemon cake, vanilla and soft cake. Easy. Crushed banana. It feels watered down. One could argue that Swedes are a watered-down version of their fellow Scandinavians, but I will not go there. Finish: short but pleasant. Very nice dram. I expected to be vile and it is not at all. 7/10

Bain's (43%, OB, 1st Fill ex-Bourbon Cask): a Seth Efricen grain whisky, apparently. Nose: typical grain -- bakery, toasted coconut. Mouth: smooth, coconut milk, vanilla pudding, easy and smooth. Finish: cinnamon, perhaps even speculoos. Balanced and nice, if unchallenging.

The Broomfest

With our dram in our hand, we proceed to the demonstration stage, where Ryan Chetiyawardana and Dave Broom host Usquebaugh! A Radical Spin on Scotch. Dave tells us about the emergence of Usquebaugh in the 16th century and its evolution through the years (medicine, social drink, long, short, mixed or neat) while Ryan brews Dewar-based cocktails with herbs or soda that shatter a few dogmas, including for me. I also finally acknowledge that Ryan's creations are interesting to some degree, though the whole thing is a Broomfest, as far as I am concerned, starting with the classic, 'to prepare for this session, I tasted 102 whiskies... mainly to piss off Ian Buxton.' Worth noting, dear reader, that Ian Buxton published a book called 101 Whiskies to try before you die.
The conclusion of the session is that whisky is a social drink to be enjoyed in good company, any way you like it. Its sole purpose being to make merry.
I ask Dave what he would mix with, say, a White Bowmore, which seems to confuse him quite a bit. Apparently, even he draws the line at that. ;-)

Back to the main halls where we get a few final drams to wind down. Glenlochy C#1759, Glencadam 34 (see notes for those two here), but also Clynelish 15yo 1997/2013 (50%, Hunter Laing Old Malt Cask 50º, C#HL9881): wax, red fruit jam, balanced, still very good.

Jura 30yo Camas an Staca (44%, OB, b.2013): nose: lots of sherry -- OXO broth. Mouth: rich and wide, balsamic vinegar. Finish: long, slightly acidic and full of balsamic vinegar. Very nice. 7/10

Benromach 1976/2012 (46%, OB): toasted oak and coconut. Mouth: very gentle and round, peachy cream. Finish: bitterness of peach stone, with its soft peach flesh. Beautiful finish, this.

We notice that the Laphroaig 27yo (see Friday's anecdote) is completely gone. Not sure when that one was emptied, but it sure was popular, considering how many of the dream drams are hardly touched.

Great show. Sunday was better, I think, despite the noticeable degradation in spittoon service (I eventually spot the bin-spitting choir boy from last year -- seems he has learnt what a spittoon is at last). Apart from that and the cock-ups with the dram list, I do not think there is a lot of room left for improvement. It is now a well-oiled machine, which is very impressive, considering the scale of it.

Favourite stands: Signatory Vintage for the crazy selection, Hunter Laing for the best drams.
Favourite staff: close call between Gordon & MacPhail, Adelphi, Angus Dundee and Dewar for second place. On top of them all comes Berry Bros, even though we hardly spent any time there.
Worst staff: Diageo.
Favourite moment: in the shop after the show, with tens of people purchasing in happy chaos, this tale between staff members, 'Someone asked me for a bottle on the top shelf, so he could see under my skirt.'
I laughed.