Rhosdhu is now distilled from 100% malted barley in a column still, which classes it as a grain, according to current SWA regulations (a silent malt, in the old world). But there was a time, not too long ago, when it was a single malt. This is from that time.
Rhosdhu 26yo d.1979 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#3236, b#163): nose: it is clearly a wicker basket full of all kinds of ripe fruits. -- bergamots, satsumas, plums, apricots, nectarines, quinces, carambolas, canary melons, papayas, and more. The wicker is fairly obvious, underneath all that fruit, sporting a thin coat of varnish. A few minutes in, the nose welcomes custard, and the smashed fruits are simply gloriously bathing in it. This is not a particularly complex nose, yet all that vitamin C it showcases aptly makes up for that. The second nose has confectionery, though I am struggling to say what... A combination of Twin Cherries and Cola Bottles, maybe, with a pinch of crushed Sweet Bananas to make it more interesting. Whatever it is, it works a treat: distinctly chemical, yet as agreeable as the natural fruit from earlier. Mouth: acidic and metallic attack that has more kick than one might expect of 46%. Past that, it is a parade of juicy fruits: overripe quince, mushy plum, juicy satsuma segments, ripe banana, covered in caramel coulis, cubed papaya, dried apricot and mango slices. The texture is that of natural fruit juice, neither pulpy, nor thin. Subsequent sips are bursting with fruit, still, and there are more kinds, here, such as greengages and mirabelle plums, as well as a drop of thick, darker elderberry compote, or currant jam, straight from the pot in which it has stewed, and still piping hot. Finish: a little on the discreet side, the finish namechecks all the fruits from the nose and palate nonetheless. This time, we also see a gentle bitterness, a root-y, earthy beverage, or a knife's blade, that complements the sweet fruit very well indeed, and brings this close to the profile of some grains (Cameronbridge and Cambus come to mind). The second sip augments all that with a spoonful of softly-earthy elderberry jam, or old raisins. Unless it is a dark-chocolate praline that contains dark-cherry liqueur. It is very convincing, either way. Pleasure in a glass. 9/10
Back in ze Heimat for the year's most ambitious tasting. And ambitious it is! This year's edition has the highest attendance, and possibly the longest line-up since we started celebrating Robert Burns, back in 2004.
Let them come!
The theme this year is Sideburns, which should provide plenty of fun.
The pace is fast, and the accent is on social interactions, rather than analytical note-taking. Ah, well.
kruuk2, Psycho, sonicvince and Mrs. sonicvince, red71, Bishlouk, STL, dom666, Gaija, ruckus, adc and JS join me for the occasion.
Psycho is sporting a bushy beard and long hair that earn him the nickname Glandaf Le Brun (it is not a typo).
STL takes it upon himself to build the line-up, before three others cast doubt in his mind and help him spend another thirty minutes polishing it.
How many engineers to build a line-up?
To help them do that, I pour...
Irish Mist (65° Proof, The Irish Mist Liqueur Co. imported by Heublein Inc., b.1970s): we had this last year, but with his sideburns, Brendan (yes, I christened the bottle/soldier) must make another appearance! He gets a very similar welcome to last year's.
Although more than one thinks it is Hibiki 17yo, it is merely a repurposed bottle
Also, amuse-bouches
The soundtrack: ruckus - Side B(urns)
At last, we are ready to start
Knappogue Castle 12yo b.2015 (46%, Knappogue Castle Limited Release bottled exclusively for Vinothek Massen and Dram Brothers imported by Castle Brands, 1st Fill Bourbon Barrel, 216b, b#125, L15 004 220) (red71): this does not fit in the theme in any way (boo!) Nose: hints of mint (Psycho), and juicy fruit (mango, mostly), some fresh herbs, penny walls, Earl Grey tea (Gaija), bergamot. It becomes more and more buttery as time passes, without losing its acidity -- something that is somehow accentuated by the appearance of pomegranate, usually not the butteriest of fruits. Mouth: an unexpected oomph, buttery fruit (in taste and texture -- think: mango), with a medicinal lick (Psycho). That texture is stupendous, buttery as smashed avocado. Finish: warming, fruity, here comes an onslaught of mango, bergamot and satsuma, in line with those older Irish beauties (not quite in that league exactly, of course). 8/10
adc: "The Knappogue ticks all my boxes." tOMoH: "Would you say it's your favourite of the night, so far?"
Soup is served.
Carrot and orange
We talk about PSc, who could not make it tonight. STL: "Who's PSc? Do you have a picture of him?" tOMoH: "Yes, but there is a black circle in front."
Inver-Regal (43° Gay Lussac, J.H. Wham & Son (Largs), for testing purposes only, b. pre-1991): blended and bottled by Wham, both members of which sported beautiful sideburns, at some point. Nose: naphthalene and tar (Psycho). Everyone else agrees in describing it as a tad dirty. Gaija finds sriracha sauce, while STL declares fermented cabbage and garlic, and Psycho announces a late-coming, well-worn sock. Mouth: very floral, ripe with violets and nasturtium (STL and Gaija), which, red71 rushes to underline, is actually very pleasant. Finish: STL attributes it a Fino side. My full notes are here. 7/10
Andrew Ridgeley (of Wham fame)
George Michael (of Wham fame) aka Γεώργιος Κυριάκος Παναγιώτου
red71: "I'm getting used to it." tOMoH: "When you have it in the mouth, it's even better... Usually the case." red71 [grins]: "Ça sent le vécu! (Sounds like experience talking!)" STL: "Ça sent le vieux cul! (smells like old arse.)"
Main course enters. adc managed to source regular (as opposed to vegetarian) haggis locally, to complement the veggie one from the UK (turns out we brought veggie haggis last year too). It is McLoughlins, rather than Macsween -- uncharted territory. It is good, though much more-finely ground than Macsween's, and less spicy. No-one finds it better than Macsween's, but everyone agrees that between McLoughlins and no haggis, McLoughlins wins every time.
All three McLoughlins haggises explode in the oven
Potato-turnip-and-swede bake
Parsnip-apple-and-sage mash also on the plate. Delicious.
dom666: "How did you smuggle the veggie one in? Did you do like drug mules?" tOMoH: "No, it's vegetarian and pre-cooked, so it's legal. But I could have."
Clydeside 3yo Stobcross (46%, OB, b.2021, CBSCS 09845) (JS): Clydeside, geddit? Nose: fruit, banana bread (Gaija) and warm custard. Mouth: something earthy or floury (Gaija). Everyone is astounded at the quality, especially given the age. Bishlouk goes from "it is very good" to "it will be very good when it's ten or twelve," but then he drinks labels. It is very good as is. My full notes are here. Tonight, it is... 7/10
Rhosdhu 26yo d.1979 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#3236, b#163) (tOMoH): this one is obviously for Rhosdhu-flaquettes (from 'rouflaquette,' French slang for sideburns). Nose: anchovy paste, i.e. dry and salty (Psycho), soy sauce (Psycho), kroepoek (Psycho, still ruminating last night's Chinese takeaway). For me, it is exuberant mango. Mouth: génépi, Chartreuse (Gaija), smashed grapefruit, as well as avocado, guava and papaya. Finish: a strong alcohol presence (Gaija, STL, red71), makes for a long finish that some say could be better integrated. For me, it is papaya, guava, and mellow citrus (bergamot? Satsuma?) Full notes will follow. This is tOMoH's bag. Funnily enough, it is also the longest-aged whisky of this line-up. 9/10
Glentauchers 21yo b.2018 (47.1%, That Boutique-y Whisky Company, B#8, 803b, b#63) (ruckus): look at those sideburns! Nose: citrus all at once, with white grapefruit, pomelo, shaddock (Psycho says orange), then crystallised angelica and stem ginger, candied fruit, Gummibärchen, and citrus-y Douglas fir. Mouth: a touch of wood, and ripe-grapefruit peels. Finish: a touch of bitterness, and lots of citrus-y goodness (grapefruit), as well as a pinch of herbs. The evening's surprise, which seduces everyone, tonight. 9/10
Will you look at those sideburns!?
The soundtrack: The Old Man of Huy - Sideburns
STL demonstrates an impressive cake-cutting technique
Psycho [looks at the next bottle]: "It is a... Ha! Glenlivet. Same as mine, then." tOMoH: "Aberlour-Glenlivet?" Psycho: "Well, they're both made with the same water of the Livet river. Same whisky." tOMoH: "Mmmmmkay."
Glenlivet d.1951 (70° Proof, Gordon & MacPhail, b. 1970s) (adc): same as Aberlour 16yo, indeed. :) The lion on the label has great sideburns, does he not? Nose: some interesting sherry notes, here, with coffee (Gaija), engine grease, leather, citrus juice peppered with some shoe polish. Minutes in, we have a soft, smoky note, and a nuance of metal gutters. Coffee grows in intensity, though never overpowers -- imagine tiramisù. Mouth: dirty! Here are shoe polish, old leather, cow dung, even. The second sip pumps up the leather, and adds chicory infusion to the mix. Finish: cured meat from the barbecue, and roast beef. There is no charred note, to be clear; just a lovely cured-meat cloak. It develops a sweetness, in the long run. It treads a tight, borderline sulphur-y rope, but that is so subtle and balanced it is hardly noticeable. In fact, it is really bloody good, and I hope to get to try this again. A strong, strong 8/10
Check out those sideburns!
sonicvince wanted to find something to relate to Magazine - Shot By Both Sides (because he reckoned being shot by both sides must burn), but ended up bringing something he simply felt like bringing.
Tomatin 1976/2001 (43%, John Alexander's Collection exclusively distributed by S.L. Major): it feels like we had this a few weeks ago, but it has in fact been four years, and that hurts. Nose: unbelievably exuberant, ripe with tropical fruit -- mango, maracuja, and, later on, lychee. Mouth: (very) acidic, it has more tropical fruit than one can shake a stick at, namely pronounced lychee, and sauced-up mango. What is there not to like? Finish: beside the obvious mango, it takes on an additional complexity with the emergence of plaster, crushed Aspirin, and crushed mango stone -- in other words: bitterness. Still, amazingly fruity, though. 9/10
The first cake does not last long. The second hardly longer.
The next bottle appears. JS tells us about La Ribambelle, a classic series of comic books by Roba, the creator of Boule & Bill. One character in La Ribambelle, is Scottish: Archibald Mac Dingelling. In one episode, they go to Scotland, where we meet his uncle Angus, and other clansmen, all of whom sport impressive moustaches. Naturally, the Mac Dingelling have a rival clan, the Mac Klangbang, recognisable for their green tartan, and massive sideburns. In one strip, there is a bar brawl involving one member of each clan. The Mac Klangbang representative's Christian name is Murchinson, and his sideburns are typical of his clan. Thereby leading to... Ardna-Murchinson.
Check out those sideburns!
From Roba, La Ribambelle en Ecosse, Dupuis
Ardnamurchan 5yo 2015/2020 (46.8%, OB, 65% Bourbon & 35% PX & Oloroso Sherry Casks, B#AD/09.20:01, 15978b, b#13122) (JS): nose: refined smoke, roasted barley and cigarette ash, then a touch of strawberry toothpaste. Mouth: sandy, salty earth, warming and comforting. Finish: ashen and long, with a lick of dark cherry. Full notes here. Excellent young whisky. 7/10
Bishlouk gets up and gives everyone a piece of paper with an equation. tOMoH quickly decides it is too complex for tonight, and leaves it to the scientists to try and decode. A vain effort, as it turns out, because Bishlouk has no clue what the equation means. He does think, though, that it is odd maths, as is the next dram, a Kilkerran, which is triple distilled, rather than the usual double distillation operated at Glengyle. The odd equation is known as Burnside's theorem. Boom.
Boom, indeed.
Kilkerran 11yo b.2017 Triple Distilled (60.3%, OB Open Day 2017, 17/202) (Bishlouk): triple-distilled Kilkerran. Who woulda thunk? Nose: torn metal and warm thyme. Mouth: hot, it has some vanilla to round off hot metal, and a pinch of herbs in conversation with hot sugar. It is balanced and pleasant, in terms of flavours, but hot. Finish: long and warming, it delivers caster sugar in a way that makes me think of grain whisky -- or rum. 7/10
Aberlour 16yo (43%, OB Double Cask Matured, Traditional Oak Casks + Sherry Oak Casks) (Psycho): a-Burns-lour, says Psycho, who adds that this was stored on the right side of his cupboard. Ahem. Nose: heavy sherry at a low strength -- which shows: it is somewhat subdued, after the hard-hitting Kilkerran. We have leather belts, shoe polish, for one second, that soon morphs into cola. Mouth: mellow, soft, filled with chocolate custard and paste-like pudding. Finish: quaffable, easy-going. We see cola and maple syrup make up a dram that is well pleasant, even though it will not change the world. 6/10
The closest whisky name to 'Sideburns' is 'Burnside,' which is allegedly a blend(ed malt). Bishlouk therefore brought a blend.
Blended Scotch Whisky 20yo 1998/2019 (44.6%, Cadenhead Club, 1 x Sherry Hogshead + 1 x Sherry Butt, 500b, 19/250) (Bishlouk): nose: strong coffee, a notch of sulphur (Gaija), perhaps. But really: coffee, and mocha chocolate. Mouth: this has a huge mouth presence, explosive and toasted, with nigella seeds, toasted bread and flat cola, or Dr. Pepper. Finish: truly a fifty-fifty blend of cold coffee and flat cola, sprinkled with a pinch of ground black cumin. 6/10
Bishlouk departs, still unwilling to grasp or admit that Burns' Night is an all-nighter.
JS, OB and Caballero66 join me to celebrate the Gateway to Central America (if that ever catches on, you read it here first!) Why this theme? Well, why not!
Bunnahabhain 11yo b.2020 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail Discovery, Sherry Casks, 20/6032): there is little left in the bottle, and I had it the other day, so I give up my serving. The gang finds vanilla on the nose and a gentle bitterness on the palate. All agree it is a good entry-level dram, which is exactly what it claims to be. 7/10
The Old Man of Huy presents: Yucatanmavulin (in the chilli con Càrn Mòr range, no less)
Tamnavulin 40yo 1968/2009 (40.6%, Càrn Mòr Celebration of the Cask, Hogshead, C#3659, 335b, b#210): nose: banana, banana bread (JS), a pinch of sawdust, Bourbon cream, old-matured apples (Caballero66), chemical compounds, all broken up into small pieces (Caballero66). It even has bay leaves and soft leather. This nose is restrained and elegant, we all agree, yet no less complex. Mouth: creamy, displaying pouring custard, peaches, overripe plums, stone fruits and fruit stones. It is amazingly full, for this low ABV, almost powerful, actually. Finish: OB thinks it becomes a bit woody, while Caballero66 detects pepper. It does have dusty old books, but also toffee. The bay leaves come back, as do the stone fruits. This is amazing. Full notes here. 9/10
Food enters. Artisan bread, cheeses, membrillo and a nutty chocolate cake whose name escapes me
The next dram is introduced by Caballero66. The first connection with the theme is that, like so many Mexican names, this one is not pronounced the way it is written. The second connection is that it was bottled by Cancunenhead.
Auchroisk 29yo 1988/2017 (44.6%, Cadenhead Cask Ends, Bourbon Hogshead): nose: chiselled and mineral (Caballero66), putty (JS), dunnage warehouse (Caballero66). It smells younger than the age tag suggests (OB). I find hay, just as I think I remember it (but not at all as I found it in the past, it turns out). Caballero66 calls Grany Smith apples ("Grany Smitcho," I correct him). Citrus (calamansi, to be accurate) joins the mineral side, which is likely flint. Caballero66 and JS note some Chablis, too. The nose seems to dissipate over time; time to drink it, I suppose. The second nose brings full-on citrus foliage (grapefruit or bergamot). Mouth: all is here -- flint, citrus, hay, all perfectly integrated and all balanced. Nothing shouts, here; it is all elegance. The mouthfeel is creamy, yet it retains the mineral aspect too, and leaves the tongue in the same state as after licking stone. Finish: it hits hard in the throat, much more than the modest ABV leads one to imagine. It is simultaneously citrus-y and grassy, adding maraschino cherry into the mix. Another cracking Auchroisk, really. 8/10
Caballero66: "I've got too much cheese left on my plate..." tOMoH: "Auchroisk con queso!"
Caballero66 is rocking his best Mexican-lime shirt, by the way
tOMoH: "I'm really enjoying this nose. It's very pure. I'd say it's distillate-driven."
Caballero66: "It's a bit harsh..." tOMoH: "That's a harsh thing to say."
We move to the sunny terrace. It calls for a hat.
tOMoH presents: Sombrerhosdhu
Rhosdhu 26yo d.1979 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#3236, b#163): as it were, this one is not an "Old" Rhosdhu. Nose: plasticine (Caballero66), Play-Doh (JS), fruity, says OB, who specifies it is plums, slightly more mature than overripe ones. I find lots of red fruits (mostly cherries) complementing custard and pastry. Mouth: velvety plums, bordering on plasticine, with a mild bitterness and a kick that hints at a stronger ABV. Plum turnovers, cherry tartlets, perhaps fruit-scented marzipan. Finish: long, warming, fruity and velvety again. Superb whisky, really. Looking forward to spending more time with it. 9/10
Caballero66: "Do you know that bird phobia is the most widespread phobia after arachnophobia?" OB: "Do you think it's a social construct, because of the [Hitchcock] film?" Caballero66: "Which came first? [The film, or the phobia?]" tOMoH: "The film, of course; it's an old film!"
JS notices OB's Garmin, and talks about altimeter and other built-in gadgets. OB: "Mine has a built-in barometer..." tOMoH: "How does that work, now that we're going back to imperial [measurement units]? Barofeet?"
Caballero66 presents: Guadalajura. Also, Jura was founded 1810, the same year the Mexican War of Independence started. Finally, Caballero66 observes that the seal on the label looks a bit like Zorro.
Jura 30yo 1990/2020 (46.33%, Thompson Bros., Refill American Oak Hogshead, 186b): nose: very particular nose, quite unlike any other whisky I can remember. It has citrus (Caballero66), lime (OB), but it is also herbaceous (lemon thyme and lemon sage, if that exists) and petrolic, with nuances of oil and petroleum jelly (Caballero66). I, for one, detect smoked cantaloupe skins. Mouth: oily as fook, it has more petroleum jelly, and the texture of Vaseline more than its taste. Speaking of taste, this one has a fascinating-yet-strange mix of fruits, seawater and diesel -- none too loud. In fact, everything is subtle, in this dram, which is great. It is not shy a palate, though: it has powerful pepper and hot cast iron; I find it a bit stripping, to tell the truth. All the same, the complementary notes are nuanced. Finish: long, robust, it comes with a tad of dusty metal and a pinch of marjoram(irez). It ends up turning pretty bitter indeed, but delicious. It is challenging, without a doubt, because of that dusty, old-boiler metal, even though it is made more approachable by compote. Funnily enough, bigger sips make it less bitter. 8/10
OB: "You look disappointed." Caballero66: "I'm not too unhappy."
With a last-minute change of sequence, OB pulls out a Chichibu. I venture it is certainly for Chichibuabua. Nope.
OB presents: Chicharrón, Chilaquiles, Burrito. To boot, this was made by Ichiro Akutortilla.
Chichibu IPA Cask Finish b.2017 (57.5%, OB Ichiro's Malt imported by Number One Drinks, IPA Cask Finish, 6700b, b#5469): nose: noticeably more powerful, it is also very fruity, teeming with pineapple and souped-up bergamot. Next to that are plastic buckets and oilskins. The strength, though... It really clears the nostrils, this one! Mouth: lukewarm beer, sprinkled with a hefty dose of pepper. On the tongue too, this is very powerful, fierce, even. However, it is also sweet, with raspberry tart, doused in custard. A lick of metal brings a discreet bitterness that feels like a mere afterthought. Finish: huge, long, gum-melting, intoxicating from the first sip. The finish does feel much influenced by the beer that was in the cask before. I like it. 8/10
Caballero66: "There are so many of them. They release special bottlings for the Whisky... Sorry: for Whisky Show." OB: "For every festival, actually." tOMoH: "You can say: 'for the every festival,' you know."
OB: "I was hoping you'd hate it..." tOMoH: "I don't know why you'd think I hate Japanese whisky. I don't buy it; it doesn't mean I don't like it." OB: "It's so leftfield..." tOMoH: I like Leftfield. I prefer Apollo 440, but I don't mind Leftfield."
JS presents: Invergordon Diego de la Vega (in the chilli con Càrn Mòr range, no less)
Invergordon 37yo 1972/2009 (46.6%, Càrn Mòr Celebration of the Cask, Bourbon Barrel CC#60478/63675, 259b, b#236): nose: dunnage warehouse, rancio and dusty blackcurrant on overdone pastry. It is less full-on blackcurrant than other expressions, as Caballero66 observes, but the markers are there. Mouth: creamy, lemon-y, this one has lemon mint and citrus-y pastry. Finish: it seems huge for the ABV, especially considering it is more than 10% lower than the previous. It packs a punch, still! Some bitterness that make me think of metal and marjoram(irez), alongside squashed, unripe blackberries. 8/10
Caballero66 presents: Drug Taliskartel (coincidentally and conveniently, a Diego distillery). Tequilasker would have worked too, but our dyslexic readers might have taken offence.
Talisker 30yo b.2009 (53.1%, OB Limited Edition imported by Ntiatzeo Ellas, 3000b, b#1907, L9170CM000 02023677): nose: ozone and photocopier toner (Caballero66), peat and metal (Metalisker). It also has a note of wet fishing nets. The peat smoke is subtle and dry, and, therefore, mesmerising to me. Cockles, whelks, then a pinch of ground white pepper and bandages. Mouth: flowers, pot-pourri, bone-dry peat, crumbling into a fine powder. It has a generous fruitiness too, with papaya and roasted pineapples, making this much to my liking. Finish: long and intrusive (a good thing, here), the finish has more of the same: hot fruit (charred pineapple) and dry peat, this time accompanied by hot embers. To think that we used to take these for granted, when they came out. Certainly 9 in other circumstances, but for today... 8/10
tOMoH: "Supermarket whisky alright, but from Waitrose." Caballero66: "Well, it's a Greek import, so..." tOMoH: "Waitros!"
JS presents: Buenas Bladnoches (in the chilli con Càrn Mòr range, no less)
Bladnoch 20yo 1990/2011 (60.6%, The Scottish Liqueur Centre for Càrn Mòr Celebration of the Cask, Bourbon Barrel, C#30005, 194b, b#131): nose: a whiff of leather and a lot of alcohol. Bone-dry flower bouquets and stencil-duplicator ink (also known as mimeography). It has a soft peat scent too, we all agree, but we all reckon it is the Talisker clinging to the glass. It is fooking dry, though. Mouth: lemon-y, custard-y, very much like a tart-casing, before it is overlayed with plums. In the long run, though, Alka-Seltzer and lemon-y pepper rock up, super dry again. Finish: peppery and full of sawdust. The fruitiness comes out, and the whole feels balanced, despite the high ABV, but it also has a robust sawdust layer. A big dram! 8/10
Caballero66: "So, the 24yo Fèis Ìle..." OB: "You want it?" Caballero66: "Well, I have a bottle, but I haven't tried it. I'm looking forward to it." OB: "You're not getting any of it. Open your own bottle." tOMoH: "...motherfucker!"
OB jokes about the next one being from a Don Diego distillery, and matured in puncheons, puncheon being the Mexican propensity for boxing. But the real (tenuous) connection is the Mexican-sounding first name Pedro (Ximénez) and Central-American-oak casks. Someone should point out to OB that PX is Spanish and so are the casks, but hay-ho.
Lagavulin Triple Matured 1991/2015 (59.9%, OB bottled especially to celebrate Fèis Ìle 2015, American Oak/Pedro Ximénez & Oak Puncheons, 3500b, b#991, L5079DQ000 50251395): nose: it smells like the coal mines (Caballero66, who no-one knew is from Yorkshire), ink, tons of ink; ink wells set on fire, window mastic, smoked-tomato chutney, shoe polish. What an elegant peat influence! Stone-baked pastry and smoked plums, ash and ink (would those not kick arse as heraldic tinctures?) Mouth: the peaty ink continues, perhaps with smoked corn. It is pretty strong and peppery, with smoked Szechuan pepper. An hour in, perhaps timid berries come out in the form of cherry jam. Finish: it is massive, and the peat smoke is not shy, here. In no particular order, we have pastrami-ed (cured) salmon, cigar ashes, hot embers, smoked black pepper, heavily-barbecued grapefruit... This is very ashy indeed. I am enjoying it, even though it is very heavy, intense and cloying. I like it better than the first time, in fact. 8/10
JS: "I feel knocked out." tOMoH: "Do you want some Mex-tasy?" Caballero66: "Or some MDMA? Mexican DMA?"
127.44 12yo 2003/2016 Cantina Mexicana (65.9%, SMWS Fèis Ìle Islay 2016, 2nd Fill ex-Oloroso Sherry Butt, 588b): nose: farm-y, it also a tractor's exhaust pipe on top of ploughed fields, a vague nuance of soft-boiled eggs and, even further, sewers that are backing up (that would be sulphur, then). Nothing detrimental, but it is distinguishable. Shiitake mushrooms appear as well. This nose is pure destruction, however. Very, very powerful. Mouth: phwoar! This is really uncompromising. Greasy peat, barbecued pineapple, crude oil, spilled on a ploughed field, yet also juicy fruit -- pineapple again, and also squashed strawberries. Finish: strawberry coulis and pineapple juice parade on scorched earth. This is dry, farm-y to a point (it still oozes tractor diesel from every drop), but it also has an unexpected sweetness. Wow! Were it not for an almost rubbery bitterness towards the Death, it would score higher. For now, it is... 7/10
High-flying tasting again. Pity CB called off, in the end.
Rhosdhu 26yo d.1979 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#3236, b#163): nose: it is clearly a wicker basket full of all kinds of ripe fruits. -- bergamots, satsumas, plums, apricots, nectarines, quinces, carambolas, canary melons, papayas, and more. The wicker is fairly obvious, underneath all that fruit, sporting a thin coat of varnish. A few minutes in, the nose welcomes custard, and the smashed fruits are simply gloriously bathing in it. This is not a particularly complex nose, yet all that vitamin C it showcases aptly makes up for that. The second nose has confectionery, though I am struggling to say what... A combination of Twin Cherries and Cola Bottles, maybe, with a pinch of crushed Sweet Bananas to make it more interesting. Whatever it is, it works a treat: distinctly chemical, yet as agreeable as the natural fruit from earlier. Mouth: acidic and metallic attack that has more kick than one might expect of 46%. Past that, it is a parade of juicy fruits: overripe quince, mushy plum, juicy satsuma segments, ripe banana, covered in caramel coulis, cubed papaya, dried apricot and mango slices. The texture is that of natural fruit juice, neither pulpy, nor thin. Subsequent sips are bursting with fruit, still, and there are more kinds, here, such as greengages and mirabelle plums, as well as a drop of thick, darker elderberry compote, or currant jam, straight from the pot in which it has stewed, and still piping hot. Finish: a little on the discreet side, the finish namechecks all the fruits from the nose and palate nonetheless. This time, we also see a gentle bitterness, a root-y, earthy beverage, or a knife's blade, that complements the sweet fruit very well indeed, and brings this close to the profile of some grains (Cameronbridge and Cambus come to mind). The second sip augments all that with a spoonful of softly-earthy elderberry jam, or old raisins. Unless it is a dark-chocolate praline that contains dark-cherry liqueur. It is very convincing, either way. Pleasure in a glass. 9/10
