17 February 2023

17/02/2023 Rhosdhu

Rhosdhu is now distilled from 100% malted barley in a column still, which classes it as a grain, according to current SWA regulations (a silent malt, in the old world). But there was a time, not too long ago, when it was a single malt. This is from that time.


Rhosdhu 26yo d.1979 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#3236, b#163): nose: it is clearly a wicker basket full of all kinds of ripe fruits. -- bergamots, satsumas, plums, apricots, nectarines, quinces, carambolas, canary melons, papayas, and more. The wicker is fairly obvious, underneath all that fruit, sporting a thin coat of varnish. A few minutes in, the nose welcomes custard, and the smashed fruits are simply gloriously bathing in it. This is not a particularly complex nose, yet all that vitamin C it showcases aptly makes up for that. The second nose has confectionery, though I am struggling to say what... A combination of Twin Cherries and Cola Bottles, maybe, with a pinch of crushed Sweet Bananas to make it more interesting. Whatever it is, it works a treat: distinctly chemical, yet as agreeable as the natural fruit from earlier. Mouth: acidic and metallic attack that has more kick than one might expect of 46%. Past that, it is a parade of juicy fruits: overripe quince, mushy plum, juicy satsuma segments, ripe banana, covered in caramel coulis, cubed papaya, dried apricot and mango slices. The texture is that of natural fruit juice, neither pulpy, nor thin. Subsequent sips are bursting with fruit, still, and there are more kinds, here, such as greengages and mirabelle plums, as well as a drop of thick, darker elderberry compote, or currant jam, straight from the pot in which it has stewed, and still piping hot. Finish: a little on the discreet side, the finish namechecks all the fruits from the nose and palate nonetheless. This time, we also see a gentle bitterness, a root-y, earthy beverage, or a knife's blade, that complements the sweet fruit very well indeed, and brings this close to the profile of some grains (Cameronbridge and Cambus come to mind). The second sip augments all that with a spoonful of softly-earthy elderberry jam, or old raisins. Unless it is a dark-chocolate praline that contains dark-cherry liqueur. It is very convincing, either way. Pleasure in a glass. 9/10

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