20/02/2023 Royal Lochnagar

Royal Lochnagar 10yo b.2006 (57.2%, OB The Manager’s Dram, European Oak Cask, b#1189): nose: intense and concentrated, this nose offers oily, exotic wood, and wood glue. Here are teak, redwood, mahogany, drinks cabinets, and teak oil. Slowly but surely, it moves towards earthier tones, and mulch appears, as does bark. It does not take long for that earthiness to elevate to Oloroso territory -- a soft, elegant Oloroso, rather than the brutes we sometimes encounter. Suede gloves, fringed leather jackets, fruit-scented lipstick in a soft-leather purse, and dried figs just about cover potting soil. The second nose has old wooden boxes made of oak, turning green with moss, and eaten by woodworm. Nail varnish appears, subtle and pleasant. A pinch of dried tarragon and crispy caramelised onions add a note of originality. Water removes all complexity, as we enter a sawmill; pine trees. Douglas firs. Epiceas. There is a lot of resin alright, but the earthy side has vanished. Mouth: wide and punchy, assertive and a half, the attack brings engine-grease-stained apricots, teak-oiled shelves, freshly-sawn mahogany, prunes, dates, and a drop of dark-cherry liqueur. What starts off as oily becomes almost milk-coffee-like in texture, with a faint bitterness that is immediately brought down a notch with Lyle's Golden Syrup. The second sip turns that into corn syrup, with walnuts and pecans floating in it -- roasted pecans, of course. Both have the skin on, which continues to provide a mild bitterness, and a distant note of old rubber. With water, here is a softer (and blander) attack, with diluted Golden Syrup, and, perhaps, custard, in which a drop of Sherry would be lost. Finish: it has oomph, that is undeniable. At first, we see more milk coffee, though that soon becomes a slathering of melted caramel, coating, sweet, and ever-so-slightly burnt. A soft nuttiness lingers, at the back of the palate, while the heat warms the whole body. Repeated sipping emphasises Golden-Syrup-glazed tarragon, much to tOMoH's delight, yet also increases the bitterness: it is no longer just green, but discreetly metallic, now. Adding water introduces chicory infusion, but renders the finish short, and quite simple. It does enjoy a remarkably creamy feel, though, which clings to the walls of the mouth like mocha custard, topped with loads of whipped cream. Excellent, though it is not exactly Michael Phelps. 8/10