25/04/2026 The Whisky Fair (Day 1 -- Part 3)

Glenmhor (43 GL, OB imported by Cantine Cairella)

Nose: hints of barley do not eclipse a rather-austere profile, all in all -- wet cardboard and dust. Fortunately, tOMoH likes that.

Mouth: cereal-y and fruity to a point. It has a good portion of citrus served on cardboard (grapefruit segments) and roasted apple slices.

Finish: bigger than expected for the modest ABV, it continues with roasted apples and grapefruit segments.

Comment: love these old-school Highlanders. This one is a rarely-seen example to boot.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

A new stand? Who is manning it? KCF!

Macduff 18yo 2007/2026 (48.9%, Scout Drinks, Hogshead, C#800220, 210b)

Nose: toffee followed by purple berries, honey-glazed gooseberries and physalis.

Mouth: sandy and fruity, it has a bitter profile, with unsweetened mixed peel and orange peels.

Finish: very orange-y and sweet, now. Marmalade, mixed peel, mint crumbles covered in orange juice.

Comment: this is good. Finishing the second sip after another couple of other drams, I downgrade my score.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, KCF)

Hi PT.

Highland 49yo 1976/2026 (45.1%, Thompson Bros. specially bottled for Dornoch Castle, Hogshead, C#SR26050, 140b)

Nose: FRUIT! Peaches and mangoes the loudest. What a smack in the face.

Mouth: mango juice with an uncharacteristic dryness. Mind you, it is not abrasive or anything.

Finish: long, fruity, teeming with peaches, persimmons, apricots and mangoes.

Comment: phwoar! I would love to spend more time with this.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, PT)

What does one try to follow that? Oh!...

Bowmore 1969/1979 (56.2GL / 98.8° Proof, OB imported by Fecchio & Frassà, Sherry Cask)

Nose: earthy-fruity, this is immediately insahne. It is maracuja and chikoo fallen into mud.

Mouth: that surreal fruitiness makes me emotional effortlessly. It has got earth, rancio, fine Rhine sand and wheelbarrows full of tropical fruits.

Finish: and here are the Bowmore eyes. This is at the confluence of earth, mud, salty beach sand and unreal tropical fruits. Carambola, dragon fruit, snakehead fruit, longan, chikoo...

Comment: another one with which I would like to spend hours (as I did in 2016). No time today, but this is an obvious masterpiece, even in these circumstances.

Score: 11/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

Glenugie 23yo 1981/2005 (61.9%, Duncan Taylor Rarest of the Rare imported by Va.Ma, Sherry Butt, C#5155, 516b, b#194)

Nose: precious wood, lacquer, shoe polish, black leather belts, dark nuts (Brazil, Kluwak).

Mouth: as expected, not much of the Glenugie character subsists, here, but what an outstanding Sherry maturation! Shoe polish, leather sofas, chocolate blended with wood lacquer.

Finish: long, earthy, it has prunes, raisins and currants aplenty, but also beef stock.

Comment: woah! It suffers from the sequence (what would not), which is reflected in the score.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

Hi AH! Hi VW!

Rittenhouse 4yo 1944/1948 Straight Rye (100 Proof, OB)

Nose: this is unmistakably a Rye, full of Irn Bru and sweetened iron juice, then floor polish. And is that a whisper of smoke?

Mouth: full and sweet, it has more Irn Bru and lemonades made with various citrus.

Finish: subtle, sweet and orange-y. Irn Bru still prevails, though.

Comment: the label tells us that Continental Distilling Corp. made this at Registered Distillery, which is a bit of a daft name, you will agree. Not sure how AH determined the dates, here, but how special to try something from 1944! Remember not a single Scottish distillery was producing at the time.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, AH)

Planters Ozark Highlands (57%, OB Family Reserve, B#High Ground, b#039, b. ca. 2026)

Nose: drier and dirtier, it still has the Irn Bru and iron that come with the rye. Follow smoke, swarf and burnt metal filings.

Mouth: creamy, orange-y notes. Satsumas now take over and push the iron into the shadow.

Finish: big, full of orangeade, lemonade and but a faint lick of iron.

Comment: these two seem to be on a mission to convert the world to Nobleton (they brought some last year). One can understand why; it is good.

Score: 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, AH and VW)

Ben Nevis 29yo 1996/2026 (48.1%, Scout Drinks, Hogshead, C#1558)

Nose: cut mangoes and smashed longans. This is really fruity.

Mouth: fruity Sprite or Fanta, bold and sparkly. More sipping makes this fruity as fook, with mango, tangerine and more longan.

Finish: soft and creamy like a mango yoghurt enhanced with smashed papaya.

Comment: so many Ben Nevis 1996 on display, today. This may just be my favourite.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, KCF)

The clock is ticking. Let us visit Kirk Barleycorn, since he will not be here tomorrow.

Benriach 1996/2026 (46.7%, Malts of Scotland Rare Casks handselected & exclusively bottled for The Whisky Dreamers, Bourbon Hogshead, C#MoS26016, 236b, b#96)

Nose: fruity pastry, turnovers, pies. It smells like it could have a whiff of smoke too, which is unexpected.

Mouth: warm, fruity, it has crusty turnovers to kill for.

Finish: long, full of pastry again, mostly pineapple turnovers, now.

Comment: another cracking selection by The Whisky Dreamers.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, Kirk)

Kirk Barleycorn: "If I understood correctly, you are a big fan of Talisker…"

tOMoH: "I have a love-hate relationship with Talisker. I only like it at forty years or older, or distilled in the 1950s or earlier. But I appreciate the gesture, and the bottle you are holding is very good. dom666 let me try it a while (many years) ago."

Talisker 25yo 1975/2001 (59.9%, OB Natural Cask Strength imported by United Distillers & Vintners Lausanne, 6000b, b#1089)

Nose: it is strong and peppery, ripe with saline, maritime notes. Behind that, we detect some smoke straight from the industrial revolution.

Mouth: indeed, lots of peppery smoke cloak juicy fruits. The second sip has a drying mineral touch.

Finish: long and hairy, it has dusty boilers, in a smoky room. It ends with a pinch of soot and bitter crushed seashells.

Comment: undeniably quality, but this is not my favourite type of Talisker.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, Kirk)

Strathisla 1989/2024 (45%, Malts of Scotland Rare Casks handselected & exclusively bottled for The Whisky Dreamers, Sherry Hogshead, C#MoS25027, 110b, b#89)

Nose: well, it clearly has chocolate, then berries (blackberries, blueberries), then white fruits behind that: green grapes, lychees, white peaches. Even later, currants rock up.

Mouth: dry and earthy, here are lots of raisins, prunes, dried currants. It is also quite strong. When the taste buds wake up, we have a medicinal note and it becomes woodier too.

Finish: a soft, earthy touch, some precious wood without the bitterness and a lingering fruitiness -- namely currants and raisins.

Comment: delicious.

Score: 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, Kirk)

It is almost over. for the day JS leaves. I decide I have to at least say hello to the Swissky Mafia. PG produces his Emergency Banff and tells me how he just established the In-Between Banff Club. We are at the end of the main event and about to enter a masterclass. It seems fitting to have an in-between Banff.

Banff 23yo 1979/2002 (46%, Ian Macleod Chieftain's, Hogshead, C#476/499, 708b)

Nose: initially farm-y, it soon emits a lot of fruits, starting with apples and pears, then moving towards dark grapes. It takes on an earthier profile shortly thereafter.

Mouth: unmistakably Banff, if has mustard, hay or straw, porridge. It grows drier and drier, yet remains fruity throughout.

Finish: soft and fruity, it is overflowing with plump apricots.

Comment: amazing.

Score: 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, PG)

Time to run to the tasting.

27/04/2025 The Whisky Fair (Day 2 -- Part 1)

A bad night's sleep it was! tOMoH got up every hour or so to empty the tank, and did so struggling to contain screams caused by kidney pain. Only later today will we establish that the acidity of asparagus coupled with the acidity of sour beer is a lot for one's kidneys. Whisky, on the other hand, is totally safe. I should add that tOMoH is not a doctor.

Today, we have breakfast at Café Kolorit, as we did last year. JS and I manage to nab the only table that is not reserved -- woo! We are outside, the weather is clement, things are looking good. Sadly, they bring something full of cold cuts that I did not order, and it takes an excruciating amount of time before we can pay and depart. The beverages (orange juice and grapefruit juice) are fantastic, on the other hand.

My Genieβer Frühstück

JS's Eggs Benedict

Artisanal bread

In the queue to the venue, we spot CD; he is watching from the balcony and is waving at us. JS is worried we will not be on time to meet AH and VW, but I am more relaxed. Where would they go? In any case, we are on time after all.

Planters Ozark Highlands (59.75%, OB Rickhouse Reserve, b. ca. 2025)

Nose: incredibly mild and cake-y, with custard and butterscotch, as well as toffee.
Mouth: drying and extractive, it is intense as Listerine -- cinnamon-infused Listerine.
Finish: mint cream, Bourbon cream, then numbing ginger and cinnamon.
Comment: a bit of a shocker with which to start the day. From the Nobleton distillery in Missouri -- a new one to me. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, AH)

Black & White (unknown ABV, James Buchanan, b. ca. 1950s)

Nose: dusty, vinegar-y old blend. It smells beautiful.
Mouth: super jammy and mellow, it overflows with marmalade and peach jelly. That is topped with a pinch of gunpowder.
Finish: a touch of soot, a lot of jam.
Comment: good old blend. The spring cap is quite a conversation-starter to boot. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, rhumauction.com)

Sadly, I am too slow to get to try this White Horse (unknown ABV, White Horse Distillers imported by WEMPA Handels, Nº 9604399). I do not insist either. Enough freeloading as it is. :-)

On the other side of the room, we meet our new friend from last night.

Domaine Pouy d.1998 (55.9%, L'Encantada L'Esprit Armagnac, C#708, B#98POUY7801, 605b, b#279)

Nose: fragrant, ethereal and ripe with jasmine.
Mouth: nice and fruity, though the mouthfeel becomes desiccating, with ashes and quarry dust.
Finish: fruity to the max, it also has drying Sauvignon blanc, Grenache, and ground lychee stone. It ends a "bit" bitter (read: very).
Comment: good. Will not turn me into a brandy head, mind. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, armagnac.de)

Domaine Séailles 1979/2022 (49.5%, La Petite Gascogne for armagnac.de, C#81)

Nose: wood and cardboard. It smells alright, but it struggles after the previous.
Mouth + Finish: grapes, prunes, soaked raisins.
Comment: competent. I fear the sequence was wrong, however. 6/10 (Thanks for the dram, armagnac.de)

Time to climb the stairs to meet those we neglected yesterday, starting with EG, who told his wife yesterday that we did not come to the festival at all, owing to not seeing us the whole day. Woops.

Milton-Duff 13yo (43º G.L., OB)

Nose: musky, dusty, old. That dissipates to leave a light nose, fragrant like a forest undergrowth.
Mouth: jammy, sweet, it has marmalade and old copper coins. It is drying in the long run.
Finish: beautifully jammy, still retaining a good dose of copper, brass or tin.
Comment: a pleasant old dusty. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

EG: "Have you tried this one?"
JS: "No."
EG: "Try it!"
JS: "What? You want me to pour it myself?"
EG: "No charge, no service!"

Tobermory 8yo d.1972 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice)

Nose: phwoar! More ashy fruits, this time, with a healthy pinch of soot.
Mouth: mellow, jammy, lovely.
Finish: yup, it has the sooty-marmalade profile one may expect from something that has spent so long in glass.
Comment: excellent. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

Ben Nevis 1970/1988 (46%, Brae Dean Int. for Moon Import The Sea, Sherry Butt, C#2913, 360b, b#267)

Nose: warehouse dust, clay floor and tennis-court clay, damp after a drizzle, dark pipe tobacco. Meow.
Mouth: a trio of wood, orange and soot. It is terribly complex, and seems well powerful for 46%, with ginger powder and dried citrus zest.
Finish: long, it has cigar tobacco, cedar-wood sheets and dried orange peels.
Comment: extraordinary. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

Someone bumps into us.

bumper: "Scusi, scusi."
tOMoH + JS: "Tsk! Oh! It is PG."
PG: "Don't spill [your whisky] on [tOMoH's] notebook."

We follow PG to his stand, where we catch CD.

Highland Park 18yo 2006/2024 (59.2%, C.Dully Selection, Hogshead, C#3571, 232b)

Nose: boasting a lot of very-dry smoke at first, it gains burnt sugar and honey with a lot of breathing, as well as cured leather.
Mouth: violet boiled sweets, torched and burnt. This is rather fierce, with burning lavender too, and it becomes drying in the long run.
Finish: it now is like licking dusty gravel in a quarry on fire (I know). Long, fiery, pushing incandescent heather bushes.
Comment: just okay for my taste. 7/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

Savoureur joins us. We try the next one blind, and, after a few attempts, I even manage to recognise it, owing to the fact I have tried it before.

Rosebank 15yo (50%, The Distillers Agency Ltd imported by Zenith, Ceramic decanter, b.1980s) 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, Savoureur)

Glen Keith 30yo 1994/2024 Nr.9 (53%, Sansibar Jens Drewitz' Personal Choice, Bourbon Hogshead, 110b)

Nose: super fruity, it offers a blend of apricots and peaches.
Mouth: I find it quite spritely too, akin to a fizzy drink made of kumquat and apricot.
Finish: long, jammy, fruity, still peddling peaches, apricots and kumquats.
Comment: who needs extreme complexity when the result is this good? 9/10 (Thanks for the sip, Savoureur)

Cool label too

Springbank 21yo (46%, OB signed by J Archibald Mitchell, b. ca 1990)

Comment: the tiny quantity I manage to put on my tongue does not allow for notes, but it is excellent. Same level as the Hedley G Wright edition we had in 2016. 9/10 (Thanks for the sip, Savoureur)

Pineau des Charentes Jean-Luc Pasquet 40yo Assemblages 75-80 (16%, OB for C.Dully, b. ca. 2025)

Nose: thick as OXO broth, filled to bursting with sweet prunes.
Mouth: fresh, overflowing with grapes, soaked sultanas and pressed prunes. Mind you, it is sweet, not sickly, chewy, not cloying.
Finish: concentrated prunes (JS). It is an explosion of rehydrated raisins and sultanas.
Comment: apparently, I like Pineau des Charentes, now. Although, this is head and shoulders above the ones we had in March. And, of course, it has little in common with the stuff one can find in supermarkets. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, CD)

We will try this ultra-rarity another time

I spot AMcD from Clydeside. He does not recognise me, but it only take a couple of words for the penny to drop.

"Have you heard of Clydeside?"

Clydeside 2018/2025 (55%, OB for Vibrant Stills, Fresh Bourbon Barrel + Tawny Port Cask Finish, C#006F)

Nose: even blind, it is relatively easy to tell it is but finished in a Port cask: it has macerated grape skins alright, but also the fruits one might expect from a Bourbon cask.
Mouth: wine-y and drying, here. We find stem ginger  and peach stone, which betrays a certain bitterness, surely.
Finish: long, big, it is reminiscent of cinnamon buns.
Comment: good, but it confirms wine casks are not something I should systematically chase. 7/10

Clydeside 2018/2025 (58%, OB for Vibrant Stills, Fresh Bourbon Barrel, C#999)

Nose: vanilla custard aplenty.
Mouth: mellow, it has a citric edge, custard with a drop of lemon juice.
Finish: phwoar! Custard-y, lemon-y, it also offers fudge, bananas and pineapple.
Comment: love this. Well done, DH! 8/10

AH and VW join us. VW is enjoying a Millburn 25yo 1975/2001 (61.9%, OB Rare Malts Selection), I think for the second time this weekend. It is a bottling he knows well, and he wants to enjoy it while he can.

Oh! ST!
tOMoH: "Is your brother here? I have not seen him."
ST: "He should be."
tOMoH: "He should be?"

ST tells us how PT had an administrative mishap and could not come into the EU for this festival. He is in Scotland, probably fuming.

Dornoch 4yo 2018/2022 (55.91%, OB for The Barrel Baron, First Fill Bourbon Octave, C#90, 82b, b#74)

Nose: dry pineapple slices and a lot of wax. It also has pandoro, confectionary sugar and sweet dust.
Mouth: oh! Funky and seemingly old, it prolongs the waxy touch, and adds brass, shoe polish and custard.
Finish: big, brass-y, with a generous dollop of brass polish.
Comment: my favourite Dornoch to-date. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, ST)

I spot something going on from the corner of my eye. It looks as though someone is negotiating the remainder of a bottle of EG's that I had my eye on.

Glenugie 20yo d.1968 (54.8%, Sestante, Sherry Wood)

Nose: phwoar! The jam in this nose! It is pure tangerine jam. I wish I had more of it and more time to spend with it, but even then: phwoar!
Mouth: incredibly balanced (remember: this is the cask-strength edition), it sprinkles a pinch of grated chalk on tangerine marmalade.
Finish: this leaves me speechless. I suppose we see the confirmation of the nose and the palate, with tangerine jam and chalky soot, but really, this is beyond words.
Comment: dram of the festival for me. I am very happy to reveal that the guy who tried to negotiate the rest of the bottle on the cheap did not get it. In fact, it went to elskling, in the end -- a good home if one can be found. 11/10 (Thanks for the dram, EG)

MW spots me.

MW: "tOMoH, do you like Port Ellen?"
tOMoH: "Errr… Sure?"
MW: "Here. The bottle is almost empty, this will make some room."

Port Ellen 15yo 1980/1996 (63.9%, Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength imported by Giuseppe Meregalli, Oak Casks, C#5090 + 5101-5104)

Nose: a very-petrolic number, it has tarry sands, diesel and seashells after a black tide.
Mouth: petrol again, drying as a sanding machine, and fairly salty. This evokes cockles full of tarry sands.
Finish: huge, dry, earthy, petrolic, phwoar. Mind you, it is also fierce and desiccating, so I can see it not being as well received by all all the time.
Comment: excellent. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, MW)

Teaninich 40yo 1973/2013 (42%, The Whisky Agency, Refill Sherry Hogshead, 213b)

Nose: very floral, it has honeysuckle, daffodils and ripe apricots.
Mouth: fresh, overflowing with spring flowers, lily-of-the-valley and suchlike, daffodil and narcissus.
Finish: spicy, jammy, we find peach jelly and the filling of apricot turnovers.
Comment: amazing. How can this shine so bright after the Port Ellen powerhouse? Who knows? Who cares? 10/10

The Westfalian 2012 11yo 2013/2024 Cask Experiment Islay (63.5%, Unique Liquids, ex-Laphroaig Bourbon Barrel, C#TW34, 210b, b#159)

Nose: extremely corn-like, with corn syrup, fructose, boiled corn and some kind of sweets.
Mouth: at once rough and sweet. It coats the taste buds in corn syrup, which immediately starts sucking all moisture out of the mouth.
Finish: funny, unusual, sweet and very much corn-orientated.
Comment: this comes recommended by the Cask Trade team. It is not bad, but I am less enthused. 6/10 (Thanks for the sip, SA)

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