3/12/2017 Four Springbank

Springbank 12yo 2000/2012 (52.7%, OB Wood Expressions, Calvados Casks, 9420b): we had this a while ago. JH kindly left a sample behind. Nose: soot, ashes, coal -- no, charcoal is more accurate -- apple pips. Dry grass, or hay appear, with very distant whiffs of cider. It opens up to reveal more farm-y tones and horses' stable -- it is a Springbank, after all. Mouth: remotely ashy, it has a bit of earth, then lots of apple peels and pips. The relatively high ABV is controlled and never invading. The fruit is acidic, but also kept in check. Finish: here, the apple grows in power, but it is overripe apple, rotten, almost. They carry an overpowering flavour of decay. It works! It does retain this wonderful ashy touch that reminds one it is truly a Campbeltown malt, robust and smoky. Of the coastal character, on the other hand, nothing remains. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, JH)

Springbank 17yo 1996/2013 (54.2%, Douglas of Drumlanrig for La Boutique du Chemin, Sherry Butt, 270b): nose: heavy leather, freshly-polished boots, teak oil, walnut oil. Later on, linseed oil also pokes its head out. Behind all that, engine oil, the boiler room of a puffer, diesel fumes, and it ends with paint. Mouth: mellower and more pleasant, here. It has soft rubber and nutty delights (Brazil nuts). Petrol makes a late reappearance. Finish: a huge sherry influence, with leather nuts, cured ham, biltong, lots of rubber, camphor, lamp oil, shoe polish and burnt meat. This is too sherried for me. It smothers the distillate. 6/10 (Thanks for the sample, LM)

Springbank 14yo 2003/2017 (57.7%, Cask Sample for Cadenhead's 175th Anniversary Dinner, C#980): this one, I sampled in May, unable and unwilling to drink it on the spot for fear of spoiling it. Nose: nutty and sweet, it has mastic, humid putty, figs and dates, crushed Brazil nuts, and cured bacon too. The back nose has a faint ashy tone, yet the dried fruits prevail. Distant cleaning agent and burnt wood are there. Water helps more smoke come through -- smoked mussels. Mouth: mellow, with a (generous) pinch of ash. Wood polish, dried fruit here too (pressed prunes and sultanas). The fruit becomes slightly fresher, with dried apricots (still dried, innit!) This is soft and sweet. With water, the profile is similar, but more velvety. It benefits from having the ABV toned down a bit. The fruits speak out more. Finish: great balance of wood, nuttiness and dried fruit. It is globally gently drying, fruity and almost rum-y. Even then, the finish retains the mild peatiness that is Springbank's trade mark and gives this a soft note of burnt wood. Water, here too, tones down the strength and allows more fruit to shine, including fresh persimmon. It is an 8 with water. Without, a more modest 7/10

Springbank 1965/2002 (46%, Lombard Jewels of Scotland): nose: this is another beast altogether, as expected. Cut apple, carambola, persimmon flesh, Chinese gooseberry and a more acidic version of lychee, according to adc. This is the best smoothie in town, tonight, no doubt! Creamy almond milk, Thai curry sauce (lemongrass, coconut, curry leaves). The freshness of sea air just about makes it through, but the creamy, fruity avalanche is much more powerful. Mouth: this is balanced, milky, gently salty, and retains much of the fruitiness advertised by the nose -- persimmon, Chinese gooseberry, Granny Smith apple. Is that rubber too? So vague it is hardly detectable, but yes, it is. Perhaps a drop of pink grapefruit is there, in the mix. Finish: long, unctuous, it has the creamy fruit smoothie, cashew-nut paste (adc) and a soft, rubber-glove bitterness. Carambola, Chinese gooseberry and, again, persimmon are the dominant fruits. One would be hard-pressed to find smoke in this, yet it might have scents of an old engine. In any case, it is superlative! 9/10

Let us call it a session.