A month ago to the day (unintentional), I attended the yearly Springbank dinner, as part of the
Campbeltown festival. For some reason, I took no notes then. However, hefty pours then meant I could take samples for later. Later is now.
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| That was then |
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| This is now |
Longrow d.2007 (57.3%, cask sample, Sauternes Hogshead, C#697 229): nose: warming and syrupy, this has lots of thick jams -- elderberry, strawberry and dark cherry, as well as fig relish. The whole is cloaked in the thinnest veil of smoke. Actually, the smoke grows and reveals smoked, caramelised pears and fresh turf. Mouth: soft, with a tiny tingle. It has more of that deliciously-smoked fig jam. It is thick and coating, without being sickly. Marmalade, likely. Again, the thin smoke is well present. Finish: here, the smoke is more pronounced; it has the typical dryness of the Longrow peat, with sun-dried farmland paths, tractor saddles and chewing tobacco. The finish is still sweet, too. The jam subsists, but it is more timid, at this point. Nice. 7/10
Springbank d.2004 (56.2%, cask sample, Rum Barrel, C#207 188): it is unclear whether this is a Springbank or a Longrow. The stencil clearly states Springbank. Nose: it seems dry and sugary at the same time. Pineapple cubes, grapefruit zest, mixed peel, even mince pies and a note of what seems like fresh paint. This is ester-y! Garden herbs join the dance (basil and chives), fresh and crunchy. Perhaps some sea air too, fresh and invigorating. Mouth: sweet, with pineapple cubes again, dried-banana slices, Chinese gooseberries gone bad (well, past its prime, at least), acidic, with grapefruit jelly. Finish: this is now teeming with those dried fruits (pineapple cubes and grapefruit jellies), but this time, it is joined by a delicate lick of smoke, and this time, it is less farmyard and more fishing nets. That makes for an odd combination, but it works. In fact, it works better this morning than at the dinner. A breakfast whisky, then! There is a mild, plastic-y note that will prevent a higher score. 7/10
Longrow d.2000 (47.3%, cask sample, Fresh Sherry Butt): nose: this one is immediately dry, ashy, with incense, burning wick, gunpowder, brimstone, matchbox striker, spent fireworks. On the other hand, it has digestive biscuits, poultry food and roasted corn cobs. Later, a peatier side appears, with germolene (an antiseptic cream), anchovies, iodine and sea shells. In the far back, fig skin struggles to make itself known. Mouth: softly bitter, the palate has guaiacol, lots of gunpowder, shards of cinnamon bark and dried shellfish. This is rather salty, really, with seaspray and salty moss water. All trace of fruit from the nose is but a memory, at this point. If anything, there might be a stripping drop of lemon juice. Finish: this bit is still as coastal and salty, though what dominates here is a distinctly sulphury and smoky feel: gunpowder, dirty shotgun barrels, smoked crabs, smoked mussels, fishing nets, dried smoked kelp, and the mild bitterness of plastic buckets. This was chosen on the night to be bottled for the guests. Today, I am not sure. I might prefer it the Rum cask. 7/10
Longrow d.2007 (57.3%, cask sample, Sauternes Hogshead, C#697 229): nose: warming and syrupy, this has lots of thick jams -- elderberry, strawberry and dark cherry, as well as fig relish. The whole is cloaked in the thinnest veil of smoke. Actually, the smoke grows and reveals smoked, caramelised pears and fresh turf. Mouth: soft, with a tiny tingle. It has more of that deliciously-smoked fig jam. It is thick and coating, without being sickly. Marmalade, likely. Again, the thin smoke is well present. Finish: here, the smoke is more pronounced; it has the typical dryness of the Longrow peat, with sun-dried farmland paths, tractor saddles and chewing tobacco. The finish is still sweet, too. The jam subsists, but it is more timid, at this point. Nice. 7/10
Springbank d.2004 (56.2%, cask sample, Rum Barrel, C#207 188): it is unclear whether this is a Springbank or a Longrow. The stencil clearly states Springbank. Nose: it seems dry and sugary at the same time. Pineapple cubes, grapefruit zest, mixed peel, even mince pies and a note of what seems like fresh paint. This is ester-y! Garden herbs join the dance (basil and chives), fresh and crunchy. Perhaps some sea air too, fresh and invigorating. Mouth: sweet, with pineapple cubes again, dried-banana slices, Chinese gooseberries gone bad (well, past its prime, at least), acidic, with grapefruit jelly. Finish: this is now teeming with those dried fruits (pineapple cubes and grapefruit jellies), but this time, it is joined by a delicate lick of smoke, and this time, it is less farmyard and more fishing nets. That makes for an odd combination, but it works. In fact, it works better this morning than at the dinner. A breakfast whisky, then! There is a mild, plastic-y note that will prevent a higher score. 7/10
Longrow d.2000 (47.3%, cask sample, Fresh Sherry Butt): nose: this one is immediately dry, ashy, with incense, burning wick, gunpowder, brimstone, matchbox striker, spent fireworks. On the other hand, it has digestive biscuits, poultry food and roasted corn cobs. Later, a peatier side appears, with germolene (an antiseptic cream), anchovies, iodine and sea shells. In the far back, fig skin struggles to make itself known. Mouth: softly bitter, the palate has guaiacol, lots of gunpowder, shards of cinnamon bark and dried shellfish. This is rather salty, really, with seaspray and salty moss water. All trace of fruit from the nose is but a memory, at this point. If anything, there might be a stripping drop of lemon juice. Finish: this bit is still as coastal and salty, though what dominates here is a distinctly sulphury and smoky feel: gunpowder, dirty shotgun barrels, smoked crabs, smoked mussels, fishing nets, dried smoked kelp, and the mild bitterness of plastic buckets. This was chosen on the night to be bottled for the guests. Today, I am not sure. I might prefer it the Rum cask. 7/10
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