27 February 2019

23/02/2019 Whisky Show Old & Rare 2019 (Day 1 -- Part 2)

After lunch, I join the Swissky Mafia at Skinner's. They cannot believe the quality of the selection and the reasonable prices. They are right. It is the third year running that Skinner shows up and I have to admit overlooking the stall each year. Old blends, Bourbons and Ryes are all good, but when there is so much else on offer, it is difficult to make the time. This time, we do.

Dallas Dhu 13yo d.1969 (80 US Proof, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by John Cross and Co.): dry, dusty and lichen-y, it also had cut quince. Love it. 8/10

St Magdalene 18yo d.1964 (80 US Proof, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice imported by John Cross and Co.): an amazing nose, all bursting with cut fruit. I take no further note (trying it in CD's glass), but I remember being very impressed by Volanne's too, a few years ago. It turns out to be the exact same pedigree, though this one has a US importer. 10/10

Black Barrel (43%, Berry Bros imported by The Buckingham Corporation): this is from before Rudd entered a partnership with Berry, circa 1910. A pre-war blend, then. Pre-First World War, that is. Nose: holy cow! this is dirrrrrty! Oily rags, engine rooms, soot, crispy bacon and diesel, hot metal and spent matches. Mouth: soft, mellow and honeyed, it is oily in texture and retains just a little of the smoky dirtiness of the nose. What a contrast! Finish: marmalade, sticking to the bottom of the cauldron, heated on an open flame. Stunning! The nose is even dirtier than the mighty Glen Scotia 12yo. 9/10

Dallas Dhu 17yo 1970/1987 (58.3%, Sestante): nose: lots of young wood, ginger and oaky tannins, gentle hazelnut, strong mint and paper paste. Mouth: some bitterness, pronounced wood, peppermint, grated ginger and horsepower aplenty! Finish: it is now almost mojito-like, with sweetness, the freshness of mint and an acidic fruitiness (lime, I would wager). This is woody, but I like it. Or as CD would put it: "I like wood." A strong 8/10

First venture to David Stirk's stand. Nice to see him again. He admits very openly and candidly that he sold off his business, because access to good casks became nigh-on impossible.

Glenkinchie 33yo 1975/2008 (50.7%, Jack Wiebers Whisky World Old Train Line, Bourbon Cask, C#6396, 210b, b#009): three of my favourite things: a Glenkinchie (rare with the independent bottlers), an aged Glenkinchie (rare, full stop) and a Jack Wieber bottling (rare in this country). Nose: porridge and custard, with added ginger shavings. Mouth: warmer on the tongue than expected, it still has the so-called Lowland softness, with coconut cream and custard, as well as a pinch of ginger. Finish: long, custard-y, gently spicy with a hint of rubber. Well, it is gorgeous. 9/10

Longmorn 37yo 1972/2010 (51.3%, The Perfect Dram & Three Rivers, Refill Sherry Wood, 231b): rather non-descript on the nose, it has a good, coating palate and a killer fruity finish. 9/10

Strathisla d.1937 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Duty Free Sample, C#903, sample #9159, drawn 1970s): GMP have brought the goods, this year. Seriously upped their game. This is super-concentrated, with lots of wood and associated spices. 8/10

Glenlossie 42yo d.1938 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice): what a treat! I tried the 43yo recently (no notes), so this one is exciting alright. Nose: loads of dust and old, dusty bookshelves, with orange slices thrown on top. Mouth: mellow, but also sooty, dusty, it has old books and old-school-smoke action. Finish: long, fruity and dirty, dusty. This is elegant. My notes are a bit rubbish; this is superlative, really. 10/10

12.22 35yo 1983/2018 35 and still alive! (43.9%, SMWS Society Cask, 2nd Fill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 204b): honeyed and fruity, elegant and quaffable. 8/10

Coleburn 26yo 1983/2010 (48.6%, Creative Whisky Company Exclusive Malts, decanter): one of very, very few decanters the company made. Watching the bloke pour from the decanter is a slapstick skit in itself. Nose: spearmint-y freshness and a little mud, in the back. Mouth: creamy and fruity, with an almond touch to it. It also has dried fishing nets or hessian, however. Finish: creamy, nutty and peachy. This is really well made. Possibly one of the best Coleburns around. 9/10

The decanter looks good, too

Ardbeg 1974/1994 (40%, Speymalt Whisky Dist. Spirit of Scotland Celebrating 500 Years of Scotch Whisky imported by Jacques Vins et Spiritueux, b#849, ID/BDJ): nose: dust, coal, soot and charred oak. Mouth: ashes, dried, charred wood, charred oak. Finish: long and drying, it is ashy and fruity at the same time (strawberry). I cannot not think of the Port Ellen Dovr-Tvtes-Mares. A beauty. 9/10

Rosebank 19yo 1990/2009 (52.9%, Acorn Natural Malt Selection for Whiskymanufaktur, Sherry Cask): nose: big, wide, fruity, almost boisterous, but in a softly-spoken way, if that makes sense. Mouth: spicy peach and apricot, black pepper, paprika. Finish: big, muscular, but also fruity and light -- simply high-strength and high-flavour, not invasive. I like it. 8/10

Imperial 17yo 1995/2013 (51.2%, Creative Whisky Company The Tony Koehl Series, C#50079, 279b): "You will have to tell me about the Tony Koehl Series tomorrow, when you are less busy," I tell Stirk. "Good, yeah. It will take a whole two seconds," he replies. :-) Nose: pollen, honey, lilac, concentrated apricot. Mouth: apricot compote, physalis, honey water (if that is a thing) and soaked lilac. Finish: assertive, fruity and light. Excellent. 8/10

Time for one more. Make it count

Coleburn d.1968 (46%, Cadenhead, b.1980s): PT bought the bottle without the neck tag, so it is a NAS. :-) JS is convinced we had this in Dornoch, but she is confusing it with a Convalmore. Nose: an interesting mix of pine, honey, dusty books and honeysuckle. Mouth: balanced, peppery (not too much), dusty and orange-y (dusty oranges), with lots of sugar, too. Finish: again, perfect balance at 46%. A gentle rubber bitterness, waxy cut quince, juicy oranges and a bit of brown acid sugar. Nice. I first had it at 8, but I will go up to 9/10

Phew. We survived the first day (almost) unscathed.

To be continued.

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