29/02/2020 Whisky Show Old & Rare (Day 1 -- Part 2): The perfect collection by Mr. Richard Gooding

For those readers who are not aware, a big collection came to the market, recently, after the death of its owner. Full story here.
The people involved in repatriating and auctioning the collection picked a few bottles and built a line-up for this masterclass. What a great idea!

dom666 [seeing seven 1920 blender's glasses on the place mats]: "Those fucking glasses!"

Ta-da!

Jonny McMillan and Iain McClune are presenting. Well, should be presenting: McClune is not here -- and we will never be told exactly why.

Old Vatted Talisker 10yo (44%, OB, b. ca 1905): if you're gonna smoke, smoke, right? Nose: dusty marbled cellars, sea rocks and eternity. This seriously smells like the entry hall of a R'lyeh palace. Crushed seashells, pebbles, long-faded pepper, distant brine -- rhaaaaaa! Later on, it turns farm-y, with mud and ploughed fields. Mouth: peppery, coastal, soft, but it also has an old-school dirt, soot and coal dust. Finish: long, with sooty notes in the background. We are reminded it is from the triple-distilled era at Talisker (prior to 1928, then), but is actually a fifty-fifty blend of Talisker and something else. In any case, this is amazeboulanger. Quite emotional. 10/10

Glen Grant 1954/1970 (70° Proof, Berry Brothers & Rudd): nose: super brine-y, with cucumber peels and candied celery (I know, I know). The second sip brings out citrus-flavoured boiled sweets. Mouth: jammy, jammy and bloody good. Everything is integrated to perfection. The palate is vaguely drying, in the long run. Finish: lovely Seville-orange marmalade (read: bitter), complemented by cinnamon sticks and cassia bark. What to say? 9/10

JMcM: "Take you time, no rush. No-one is rushing you. Do you feel rushed?"
tOMoH: "You're bullying us!"

Glengrant 15yo (86° Proof, Mackintosh imported by M. Lehmann, b. ca 1940): interesting lack of a space between Glen and grant, on this label. Nose: the sherry influence is undeniable, much more present, with precious wood and dark toffee, Scottish tablet, wood lacquer and varnish. Mouth: soft and balanced, it has chocolate custard, chocolate coulis, milk-chocolate mousse and toffee. Finish: treacle, toffee, chocolate brownie, chocolate coulis and lacquered wood. The finish has an overblown drinks cabinet note that is a bit invading. 8/10

JMcM: "They'd organised a concert of their favourite country singer, called Mac Davis [I think], who's quite famous, apparently. If you're a cowboy."

Cardhu 26yo 1974/2000 (50.3%, Signatory Vintage Rare Reserve imported by DIME Group International, Sherry Butt, C#3614, 420b, b#207): nose: a noticeable shift in ABV, or so it smells, with dark treacle, liquorice and tar. Later, fruit appears -- lychee and dragon fruit. Mouth: sweet, cola-like ("Pepsi," says Cavalier, referencing the fact Gooding was involved with the food giant), flat cola, prunes. It becomes drying after a few sips, with cold coffee. An ex-Oloroso cask, maybe? Finish: long, sweet, it has coffee grounds, but also a good serving of prunes, dates and figs. This is an amazing dram, provided one really likes sherry. 8/10

JMcM: "Who ever got excited by a Cardhu?"

Well, our table, actually.

Glendronach 20yo 1970/1990 (56%, Signatory Vintage, Sherry Casks, C#513--518, 3800b, b#1913): nose: quite similar to the Cardhu on the nose, with liquorice, coffee grounds, tar, but also black tea and leather. The nose suggests an ex-Oloroso cask alright, even more so than the Cardhu's. Mouth: spicy, it has ginger, lemongrass, cassia bark, cloves, sandalwood, and a lick of chocolate coulis, plus a dollop of maple syrup. Finish: it is so hot! Coffee grounds, liquorice, smoked lemons, dried mace, chewy and fierce. JS says it reminds her why she does not like Glendronach. I find it interesting, but I would not buy a bottle of it for myself. 8/10

Cavalier66: "It is like in Mongolia, where you have fermented horse's milk."

JMcM: "Let's move to dram #6, and here, everyone's favourite will be the Bowmore. It is a 1968, which is an unusual vintage. Usually, it is '64 or '66 but there are not too many '68 around. ED? pat gva?"
ED: "Yes, '65, '66, '69, less '68."
pat gva: "'55 also..."
JMcM [tongue-in-cheek]: "Yes, of course, pat gva, '55. Everyone knows them. A round of applause for pat gva, please."

We all look at each other in disbelief. I know more 1968 Bowmore than 1965 and 1969 put together, and online resources seem to agree with me. Not quite sure where JMcM's observation comes from. Anyway, the whisky.

Bowmore 32yo 1968/2000 (46%, Signatory Vintage imported by DIME Group International, C#1428, 248b, b#48): funnily enough, this was distilled on a 28th February. It was its birthday yesterday. Nose: what to say that is not blatantly obvious? Flowering currants, pomegranate seeds, and of course, the fruity cavalcade that I expected: mango, lychee, dragon fruit, guava, jackfruit, persimmon, kaki, physalis (Cavalier66)... Oh!? Is that Bowmore eyes? But of course. Mouth: creamy, with peach flesh, mango purée, galia melon, canary melon, pressed lychee, guava -- lots of guava! Finish: very long, with the same debauchery of fruit, tropical and fresh. I think my opinion of this is clear. 10/10

Life does not suck, right now!

Cavalier66: "Pepsi is more herbal than Coke."

Glen Garioch 37yo b.1997 (43%, OB 1797 to 1997 Bicentenary, 200b, b#111): nose: horse stables, with horse's hair and leather saddles. Next up is black shoe polish, then pepper (lots), a white-hot furnace and a drop of fruit (white peach, to be precise). Mouth: it is hot and peppery, with lots of earth, scorched earth, leather and horse's hair. This is powerful to the point it is almost drying. Unexpected, considering this is the lowest ABV on display at this tasting. Finish: blackcurrant aplenty and damp earth. The more one drinks it, the juicier it becomes, with plums and prunes. This poor Glen Garioch is occupying the death seat (the Bowmore is a tough act to follow), but manages to make a strong impression regardless. Cracking dram. 9/10

We collect a few of our glasses that still hold liquid to share upstairs.

Rather sober presentation, with good info and pace, but it was a little heavy with private jokes with friends and about Berry Bros. Perhaps worth explaining you work for them, JMcM. In a room of forty, not everyone will know you.