31 May 2020

30/05/2020 Ardbeg day

The end is in sight.

Ardbeg 26yo 1993/2020 (53.7%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection, Bourbon Hogshead, 240b, 20/16): nose: how I love aged Ardbeg. It loses the relentlessly-loud peat to become less boisterous and, therefore, more elegant. This one has ink and blotting paper, dry earth, roasted malt and dried raspberry slices. That raspberry evolves into a full-on fruity custard, with vanilla, cut peach and, well, raspberry, all that without fully shaking off traces of smoke -- smoked tea and burning hay. Paper paste, papier mâché, moist cork. Later on, it is banana slices and smoked  plantain. Mouth: the palate is remarkably in line, with creamy fruits (banana, peach flesh, maybe even mango, this time) in yoghurt, dried raspberry, still, and a drop of lemon juice, here. The smoke seems a tad bolder, with guaicol and spent fireworks, dirty shotgun barrels, burnt incense and coffee grounds. Spices develop with repeated sipping; black cumin, sumac, maybe ground cloves, roasted cassia-bark powder. Finish: seemingly rather short and timid, the finish sees the same toasted notes  of coffee grounds, as well as burnt cake and bonfires, gunpowder and spent matches. Grated extra-bitter chocolate, warm, black ink and liquorice allsorts. Not much fruit comes out in the finish: it is strictly a smoky-woody affair, which is perhaps more typical of the distillery character, these days. Still excellent, mind. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, SW)

Ardbeg 31yo 1972/2004 (44.2%, OB Single Cask for Belgium, Bourbon Hogshead, C#3038, 148b, b#71): nose: I remember comparing the previous dram to a 1970s distillation, the first time I tried it. Today, we can really compare... and it is unfair for the poor 1993. To boot, this is from 1972, when Ardbeg was still floor-malting all its malt on site. This has ink too, hence my comparison, the other time, but it is the finest China ink under the sun, only used for calligraphy by emperors. That ink is blended with a generous serving of ashes and manure. It is very farm-y, in fact, in a cattle-farm way. with cow stables reeking of cow dung, muck, muddy fields, muddy pastures, cattle feed, but also newly-tarred roads and ash. It is quite a combination! I find virtually no sea influence here, however -- all farm-y peat, rather dry. Perhaps something salty? At a push, smoked oysters, but I think i am trying so hard to smell that that my brain is playing tricks on me. Perhaps it has a gentle medicinal note instead (germoline, TCP). Mouth: milk in texture, it is also ashy and earthy, with scorched earth, burnt hay, hot ink, tar,scorched leather and pipe tobacco, slowly consuming. The second sip brings a softer, sweeter side (my money is on smoked plums), which balances the farm-y/earthy aspects quite well. Pencil erasers, covered in a veil of ash, ashy peach slices, distant menthol, brewing smoked tea, and, at last and far back, fleeting dried shellfish. Finish: surprisingly milky and quaffable, it has more ash. However, the finish also sees roasted malt, which, I find, is the trademark of these single casks, and, to me, what prevents them from reaching top score (don't hate me cos I'm beautiful). Warm embers, the ashy remains of a bonfire, then, later on, dried raspberry slices, charred on the barbecue. This finish leaves the mouth fresh, despite the ashes. Still, I cannot call it menthol any longer. Perhaps it is mentholated tobacco? Smoked oysters? What is certain is that the distinct cattle notes from the nose have now gone away, making room for gently medicinal ones. The ashiness still dominates this fantastic dram from beginning to end, though. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, kruuk2)

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