Convalmore d.1969 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, b. early 1980s): there were at least three versions of this (bottled at 12, 13 and 14yo). Considering the bottler did not mention the age or the bottling date on their miniatures, at the time, it is unclear which one this is. Nose: well, it is the trademark dusty/pickled leather/coffee that comes with a brown-label, Gordon & MacPhail miniature (Old Miniature Effect, or OME, remember). It only takes a couple of minutes to evolve and display mocha butter cream, damp bung cloth and inky blotting paper, stained with preserved-gherkin pickle juice. A little later, old bookshelves and cardboard boxes appear. Clearly, this one is dominated by aromas of old wood. Only after more than five minutes does it present a mix of fruit (oranges, past their prime) and stagnant water, then cappuccino. At that point, it is very pleasant too. Just before the last sip, it becomes obvious that the nose has a little smoke from a coal stove. It is discreet, but it is there. Mouth: gentle, even soft-ish, at first, it has barrel-aged orange juice, fruity and woody in equal measures, then dried grated ginger, mixed peel, and candied orange cubes. The texture is velvety and nicely mouth-coating. The second sip brings up more spices (white pepper and galangal shavings), and it stops feeling soft-ish. Musty cellar, damp, earthy floors, cardboard. Perhaps burnt Christmas cake, sticking to the side of the mould. Finish: marvellous finale that has most of the above: a drop of cappuccino, lots of orange juice, candied papaya, now, dried ginger, damp bung cloth, cardboard, a pinch of earth, though little pickle, at this stage. Cocoa powder, perhaps, bitter and chocolate-y at the same time. The stagnant water from the nose has disappeared (phew), but a new addition is an impression of a classroom coal stove -- a little smoky, a little sooty, very warming, very oldskool. Love this. 8/10
Convalmore 40yo 1977/2017 (56.8%, Cadenhead 175th Anniversary, Butt, 522b): this mighty expression was released at the 2017 Campbeltown Festival, for the 175th Anniversary Tasting. You may recall that I never tried it, because I had spent too much time with the Banff. Luckily, I had an empty container, that day. Now is the time, then. Nose: oh! My word, that is so different. It is to be expected, of course, seeing the age difference (not to mention the vintages). In no particular order, we have flower stems (gorse), custard, satsuma, kumquat, kaffir lime leaves, bergamot and calamansi (though the latter is subtle). It smells citric, but in a sweet, leafy sort of way, rather than overtly acidic. There is something else, though -- something unexpected: pet-fish or pet-turtle food. I do not think I have come across that aroma in a whisky before (or seen that tasting note, so remember: you read it here first!) Lavender, pineapple skin, cucumber peel, lemon sage, primrose and violets -- phwoar! This rawks, innit! Further nosing reveals fruity custard, perhaps with fleeting minty cough drops added in for good measure. Mouth: soft texture, despite the significantly-higher ABV, it has thinned juice and white-wine sangria (if such a thing exists). Soon, it unleashes fruity custard or yoghurt, with pineapple chunks, peach (roasted peach, no less), Chinese gooseberry (also roasted), smoked tangerine segments (that is right: smoky), stewed rhubarb, primrose again, kumquat and banana rum. The palate has something perfume-like too; some kind of essence, though not pine, even if one might find traces of pine resins in this. Perhaps it is simply the structure, which is concentrated and lively-ish. A green note persists: the primrose stems, without a doubt. The whole palate reminds me of the boozy haze in a dunnage warehouse, filled with the angels' share. Finish: here, it is superfruity, with smoked tangerine again, smoked kiwi, fresh pineapple cubes, charred calamansi, grilled apricot, fruity crème brûlée, waves of custard, bursting with squashed fruit (mostly peach again) and a few grains of sooty charcoal in a galvanised-steel bucket. The finish has the same comforting warmth the Gordon & MacPhail had, but it is made so much richer by that custard-y fruitiness that accompanies it. This is boss. The sort of bottles that will inevitably grow in reputation and prestige. A very strong 9/10
No comments:
Post a Comment