29/01/2021 We had a long row

Longrow 7yo 2000/2008 (55.8%, OB Wood Expressions, Refill Bourbon / Gaja Barolo Finish, C#12120): nose: greasy, oily rags used by a mechanic to disassemble and clean an engine. There is a lot of metal in there to accompany the grease -- gun oil, gun metal, a toolbox full of dirty tools. Suddenly, the nose switches to a farmyard, with tractor diesel, but also rich, freshly-ploughed soil, farmland paths and muck. It only takes a minute (girl) to turn full-on manure, augmented with a pinch of ash and smelly cheese rind (Stinking Bishop, probably). The only wine influence, thus far, is the earthiness; after all, vines grow in earth too. I have had red wines that felt earthy like this. Maybe Cabernet, but do not quote me on that. Eventually, a thick cloak of candlewax wraps everything else, supported by burning candle wick. The second nose has an almost bacon-y tang to it, Grills or Frazzles. I must say I am not insensitive to it. Mouth: lively on the tongue, it lacks neither wax nor heat. Chopped Scotch bonnet peppers, mixed with thick elderberry, squashed blackcurrant and cranberry compote, at once jammy and earthy. There is a distinct smoked-earth character down the back, and the mechanic's shenanigans manifest themselves in the form of diesel fumes, here. The bacon notes are here too, flirting with fallowed fields under the summer sun. This palate is simultaneously bone-dry and juicy, earthy and fruity, and it achieves that balance in a way that is remarkable. The wine character just about makes it through, which is good: it does not feel like a particularly sophisticated wine; rustic, waxy and coating, almost invasive. Finish: big, robust, smoky, it has smoked berries, embers, ashy earth, dirty old rags, even if whatever oil or grease on them has now completely gone. A handful of Grills, a sip of elderberry cordial, a spoonful of piping-hot cranberry compote, a pinch of ashy earth -- oh! in the long run, it is pretty ashy indeed. The whole is reminiscent of a well-maintained pig farm; one where the pigs are clean, roaming freely and happy, before they are turned into bacon rashers. Frazzle dust, at the bottom of the pack, barbecue sauce on overly-grilled spare ribs, charred lard skewers. I like this more than the first time, though that is from a cerebral point of view, rather than pure pleasure. I do find it enjoyable, yet it is perhaps not something I would drink lots of. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, PS)