16/02/2021 Tomatin

Tomatin 43yo 1965/2009 (41.1%, The Lonach Whisky Company Lonach imported by Preiss Imports): nose: satsumas and kumquats parade by the nostrils, startled by a drop of lemon juice. Further on, beeswax evaporates from a clean and barely-moist rag. The nose seems to take a turn for the fruitier, with pink-grapefruit peel and juicy pineapple slices. It is almost rubbery, that grapefruit, so waxy it is -- unless I am smelling oilskins in the springtime sun? I find something dryer and more bitter, in a dry-Martini sort of ways, though with cucumber peel instead of an olive. All of that is rather discreet, yet the whole is fresh indeed, after all those years in a cask. The second nose unexpectedly brings its share of wood, though: imagine a decades-old glass-door cabinet that would have never seen a lick of varnish -- raw, but also dry and rustic. Mouth: the attack is on the bitter side, for a moment, like chomping on a grapefruit peel. It soon calms down and unfolds notes that hark back to the nose, with grapefruit (acidic flesh, this time), dry Martini, cucumber peelings, a drop of wax, rubbery oilskins, and unripe satsumas. The texture is milky, and it carries some wood spices that become evident with more time on the tongue (ginger shavings, peppermint, citrus zest). Dried peach skins, ground peach stone... This becomes dryer with each sip, even if that never becomes bothersome. Love it. Finish: creamier than the palate, the finish has fruit yoghurt, or fruit paste, with the acidity of citrus and, in the long run, a bitterness that suggests citrus peel. It does go on forever (that is always a bonus when it is this good), and gives a fuzzy feeling. Pâtes de fruits (fruit jellies), candied angelica, mixed peel, peach skin, dried peach slices, stale peach or apricot nectar. Interesting how it shifted from bitter citrus peel to juicier and juicier fresh fruits. It is also striking how full it feels at barely 41%. All the same, I can easily imagine it not shining so bright in other circumstances. I never really understood why this range has such a mediocre reputation. In any case, this one is very much to my liking. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)