22/04/2021 Ledaig

Ledaig 1974/2000 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old, JJ/CB): nose: heaven. At once, it is orchard fruits (apples, pears, peaches, rosehips) and haystacks, though it is not long before tropical fruits take over: waxy mango peel and papaya. Earthy peat appears in the background, subtle and elegant, but definitely present. Next up is a mixture of fishing nets, petrol and silt in a freshwater harbour. The dialogue between silt and tropical fruit strongly reminds me of the ancient thing from Tyrone we had last year. There is a whiff of nappy glue too, which is rather original, old rubber, baked by years spent on the beach, washed-out and regurgitated by the lapping. Muddy peat and tropical fruits are never far, though, and they inevitably come back, occasionally supported by berries. The second nose seems fresher, as in: sea air, though no sea spray, or brine, which points towards white-water-river air instead: brisk, but humid with fresh water. Lastly, the apples come back What a nose this has! Mouth: remarkably petrolic in the attack, it is also creamy in texture and quite peppery, considering the low ABV. Bathed in kerosene, we have sliced peaches, sliced mangoes, papaya and waxy apricots, sprinkled with cracked green pepper. A soft note of creamy horseradish-and-honey sauce come spice up the whole, served with grated lychee and a drop of lychee liqueur. In the long run, red fruits also show up (gooseberries, snowberries cranberries), juicy and acidic. They are soon caught up by petrol-stained mudflats and rubber. Finish: controlled and balanced, the finish is long, despite not being explosive; it has the same fruits, doused in petrol. I do not think I ever found this as petrolic, in the past. Freshwater fishing gear is present here too, and there may just be a spoonful of silt. On the other hand, hay has all but disappeared, and rubber is only there because it can be related to the hydrocarbon-soaked, muddy fruit. Sweet barley makes an entrance with the second sip, as do sweetened soy milk and tahini. That is right: the finish tones down the acidity in favour of a light-touch bitterness. And it is gorgeous. What a cracking dram! 9/10