21/09/2021 Macallan

Macallan 20yo 1975/1995 (46%, Direct Wines Ltd. First Cask, C#8899): nose: supremely elegant -- something I do not often say about Macallan, I know. This appears to be from a Bourbon cask, and, therefore, it lets the spirit breathe -- and what a fruity spirit it is! Candied pineapple, crystallised grapefruit, mandarin peels and syrupy marmalade. Candied angelica (cangelica?) and Gocce Pino are present, balancing the fruit rather nicely. After a short while, woodier notes grow in intensity, though it is hardly woody; in fact, we have all sorts of resin and beeswaxes, dark honeys and a drop of furniture polish. Vibrant. Mouth: crisp and, perhaps, a little unripe, this has bright-green apples, white wine and paint thinner in comparable doses. It is a tad sharp and spicy, serving what may come across as pickled galangal shavings. Wet wood shavings, faint liquorice root and wooden knife handles. The fruity tones are much more subdued, here, if they are even present at all. The texture is oily and the taste has hints of nut oil (probably hazelnut). The third sip showcases raspberry or elderberry boiled sweets, as unexpected as they are pleasant. Finish: aaaaaand the fruit is back! Crystallised citrus, Bourbon-y custard, flan, topped with a caramelised Madeira coulis. The finish is long and develops a mild bitterness that can be felt down the chest. Hazelwood, probably, unless it is holly. Honey comes back, although it is blended with hazelnut oil, this time, and a drop of sherry vinegar. If it makes for a nice vinaigrette, it is perhaps a bit much without a salad. Over time, and with repeated sipping, warm, Bourbon-y custard coats the gob in a warming and comforting fashion, reducing the bitterness and vinaigrette feel into an easy-going furniture polish. Tantalising nose. The mouth and finish are behind, unfortunately. As Macallans go, this one is top-shelf material all the same. 8/10