22/10/2021 Glen Mhor

57.4 15yo 1979/1994 (63.1%, SMWS Society Cask): nose: it has the Glen Mhor austerity, with a dash of vinegar on limestone, lichen on stave and a faint note of pickled red onions. This is a strongly mineral dram, with mortar, hard grout and warm plaster. Well, plaster indeed! It becomes a bit more welcoming, displaying ground paprika, sumac and a little musk -- "a bit more welcoming," but it is not exactly Italian ice cream! The second nose seems a little more animal, with fox's skin and warm suede. Water creates a dichotomy: on the one hand, it unveils more fruit (crisp apples, old quinces); on the other, it gives a waft of an old drunk's breath -- fortunately quickly replaced by a drinks cabinet in mahogany. Last but not least to appear is unlacquered ebony. Mouth: with exactly zero surprise, this is pretty hot. It has lots of old, dusty cast iron, heated limestone, dried lichen, and also a drop of acidic lemon juice, or a pinch of citric powder. It feels like chewing on a live fox, at times, warm, hairy and animal, musky. Repeated sipping brings a leafier, sappier note (in other words: a soft bitterness) that cannot fully eclipse the mineral, citric profile, rather complements it. Water cools off the animal side and the heat, which puts the emphasis on lemon juice. This time, is comes with a drop of plum juice too. Finish: huge. It passes through the oesophagus merely emitting gentle fruit (warm, stale marmalade), rests for a second, then jumps out and reaches for the jugular, burning everything on the way up with glowing embers and ashy apple skins. Phwoar! It is distinctly fruitier in the finish than before, and the hot apple skins grow in intensity, joined by some apricot compote. There is a (very) faint whisper of dark-chocolate mousse too, hardly noticeable. The strength, though!... It really leaves the mouth shaken. With water, the finish leaves the mouth drier, giving the same impression after one sip as one gets after a whole night on the sauce. At the same time, there are touches of kumquat and clementine peels to elevate the whole. It works differently, but as well with or without water. Uncompromising. Love it. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)