10/02/2022 Bowmore

Bowmore 16yo 1996/2012 (46%, Morrison & Mackay Càrn Mòr Strictily Limited Edition, Sherry Butt, 844b): nose: well, generous, greasy peat is the first thing that caresses the nostrils. It is black sands, lapped by the sea, more than a black tide, mind. In no time at all, char-grilled orange segments join the dance; they are not obvious, underneath that thick layer of char, but they are there alright. Then, something fresher happens -- perhaps pomelo zest, mixed in with crushed mint. It keeps evolving, however: next is a blend of plum juice and wood lacquer. Finally, line-drying linen appears, after it has been laundered with a vaguely-citrus-y washing powder. What a ride! The second nose has dried apricot, peeking in the distance. Mouth: on the tongue too, the first, obvious thing is peat. It is gentle enough, but peat nonetheless. It goes from the croissant tray in a baker's oven to petrol-stained sand, which is to say charred buttery dough and a much more petrolic aspect. It feels strongly phenolic, at any rate -- charred oranges, roasted pomelos, grilled yellow plums. No shortage of fruit, here, though mostly charred. The second sip adds gentle spices to that: smoked cloves, toasted coriander powder, perhaps black cardamom shavings. The texture seems thin at first, until it becomes clear it clings to the palate alright. Finish: easy enough at first glance, it quickly demonstrates how bold it is by coating the palate, tongue and gums. The citrus fruit is now charred beyond recognition, the afore-mentioned croissant is reduced to a pile of parched, black crumbs on tin, and the petrol is as good as evaporated. The palate is left coated in char, chewy and desiccating, as if it had gone through a blackened Wensleydale-with-apricots toastie. The second sip is still char-y, yet it has burnt wood, competing with the charred fruit and pastry. It is rather elegant too: toasty-woody, gently-bitter aniseed morphs into roasted citrus and apricot. Very good. Funny how the peat dissipates rather quickly to make room for a charred-fruit profile. 8/10 (Thanks for the dram, PSc)