14/06/2022 Glen Elgin

Glen Elgin-Glenlivet 30yo 1978/2009 (49.1%, Cadenhead Chairman's Stock, Bourbon Hogshead, 234b): nose: this has an air of distinction about it, with honey and encaustic, blended in equal measures, propolis and car polish, or marble-floor wax. There is a touch of Bourbon vanilla too, which promises sweetness. Some wonderful wood (elm) full of patina, membrillo, and gently-caramelised quince jelly. Darker old wood grows to meet all that, yet it does not take over; instead, it decides to step back to let floor wax come back, as well as meringue and a berry coulis. And here is the wood again, punctuated by Corinth raisins and fresh figs. The second nose is more overtly Bourbon-y, with lots of toffee, Scottish tablet and stracciatella ice cream. Scratch that! It is vanilla caramel sundae, or caramel flan. Still, old wood comes tickle the nostrils, with woodworm-eaten chairs and ancient bookshelves covered in patina. Further on, the nose has the lacquer of a record's picture sleeve (act119 or act179 come to mind, for some reason), or waxy modelling clay, maybe. It is not really plasticine, in any case. Mouth: woody and peppery, this has no shortage of spices, even if they are tame enough to almost go incognito. Aside the pepper, we have stem ginger, soft cassia bark, and a pinch of ground cloves. No matter, however, because they are soon submerged in a simmering cherry compote. The second sip seems stickier and woodier, bringing back furniture polish, this time slightly more astringent, closer to a deck stain than to pure wax, as if said polish were mixed with turpentine. Turpentine is also what the texture feels like. Further sips appear to mix that with flat cola. Surprising, but it works. Finish: fruity and a half in a preserved-fruit way. Simmering cherry compote again, caramelised fig relish, and even vanilla pods, via retro-nasal olfaction. Cloves and cassia bark provide a depth that increases complexity. The naturally-pacified strength offers the perfect balance, and, if the finish lasts forever, it is full of goodness, rather than fiery spices. The lasting impression oscillates between a peppery peach salad, apple brandy (Calvados), and cassia-bark dust spilled on a wooden worktop. Whichever it is, it is next to an empty tumbler of Bourbon (no ice, thank f-!) Classy and elegant, this is not spectacular, because it knows it does not have to be to be outstanding regardless. 9/10