25/05/2023 Balmenach

Balmenach 25yo (43%, Glenkeir Whiskies Glenkeir Treasures The Gold Selection, 213b): this was perhaps sourced from Douglas Laing stocks, still, but, by then, Glenkeir had become a bottler (a company), not merely a The Whisky Shop collection. Nose: a heady mix of wood lacquer and apricot jam, marmalade-glazed nuts, and furniture wax. It has notions of older wood, with an air of dusty bookshelf, though one could easily miss that, if not paying close attention. That all progresses towards dried-out (and much-hardened) citrus rind and solvents (paint thinners, industrial cleaning fluid). It does lose the woody touch entirely, however, and stays a delight for tOMoH -- no doubt some others would have a different opinion: solvents tend to be divisive. A little later, the solvents morph into something else, more petrolic; a blend of lighter fluid, unleaded petrol, and engine lubricant. Still, the wood is not far off, now clearly coated in furniture wax. Wow. The second nose appears more streamlined, perhaps a tad more minty and lively, closer to a walk into the woods or mentholated tobacco than the initial waxy-woody impression. It has something almost perfume-y to it, now, reminiscent of Grey Flannel, as well as distant sea breeze. Mouth: the attack is fleetingly waxy and velvety, yet, almost immediately, the palate becomes frankly bitter, in an old-wood manner. No plant sap, here, but dusty planks aplenty. That calms down to some extent, and a waxy number profiles itself -- furniture polish, floor wax, marble, squeaky under the rubber sole, so waxed it is. Apricot is still present, though the stone comes out more than the flesh, now. The second sip has more yellow fruits: mirabelle plums, unripe nectarines, apricots again. The bitterness of their stones is there alright, yet much less pronounced than before. It is now closer to apple pips -- and that is good news! We also have dark-wood shavings, at this point. Finish: warming, fruity, woody, still bitter, if entirely below the strictest level of what is unacceptable. Seville-orange marmalade, apricot compote stewed with the stones, varnished wood, and a drop of Angostura bitters. The second gulp has Worcestershire sauce too, then ground nutmeg, ground galangal, and soft ginger powder. Yes: it is spicy. Spicy, without being fiery; bitter, yet not off-putting; woody, not plank-y. The death sees wine-cured apricots and Seville-orange rinds, the latter dried to a woody consistency. Very good Balmenach. 8/10