14/08/2024 Linlithgow

Linlithgow 25yo 1975/2000 (50.5%, Signatory Vintage, Oak Cask, C#96/3/14, 352b, b#9, 00/1147): souvenir from June. Nose: wood, slate, and berries, all in one package. Oiled mahogany turns to iroko and ebony; wooden cutting boards turn to slate; gooseberries turn to dark cherries. Those cherries end up smashed, and blended with wood oil and chocolate spread, before we detect tarmac and pulped ebony (is that even possible?) Suddenly, it turns a corner, and becomes all mechanical, with engine lubricants, both grease and oil. It is only seconds before we are back in the company of chocolate spread and wood varnish (in tins, this time). All the same, it is no longer exempt of grease of some kind -- sometimes, it even flirts with rancid butter, subtle in the extreme, yet recognisable nonetheless. At times, it is shoe polish that takes the lead, whilst at others, a lubricated engine does the talking. There is even a whiff of gentle barley taken straight from the field, if one insists, and a drop of green-grape juice. The second nose is more-clearly fruity in a dry-white-wine way. Riesling or Chablis. Probably the latter, since it is too concentrated for Riesling (whatever that means). It keeps a sweeter touch too, hinting at sultanas more than grapes. Out of nowhere, oily blonde tobacco tickles the nostrils as one tilts the glass, fragrant, and, well, oily. Mouth: shazam! It is punchy, borderline aggressive an entrance, yet it immediately puts one at ease with green-grape juice, sultanas, and grape-pip oil. And oily it is too! If one word were to describe the texture of this dram, that would be it -- 'oily'. The initial kick, akin to that of green chilli, fades out and allows a mild green bitterness to surface, part hazelnut, part cylinder head (yes, it is a tad metallic). It takes a moment for fruits to wake up (currants, greengages), and, beside that soft bitterness, there is no wood to speak of, here. The second sip mostly does away with the spices -- oh! No, it still has green chilli alright, served with sultanas, both coated in oil. For a minute, the front and top of the mouth feel as if grazed by too hot a spoon. Finish: it is hard to tell if this is luscious or austere. Like the best St Magdalene, it is both, of course: one second, we have (shy) green grapes, the next, we have quarry dust. One moment, we have greengages, the next, we have green chilli pepper. One thing is certain: it is a long finish. It is also warming and comforting. Beyond that is a patchwork, really. Fruity, mineral, oily, and a little cereal-y, all at once. To the above fruits, we could add Mirabelle plums and sultanas. We have honeyed muesli, a cloud of quarry dust, and ground peach stone. The second sip is even stronger than the first (in terms of quality, not alcohol bite), and the oily, golden grapes and sultanas are joined by buttercups and buttered toasts, slathered with honey. If looking intently, one might detect shortbread with some kind of lemon-curd filling. Exceptional dram. 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, PG)