4 October 2024

04/10/2024 Arran













Isle of Arran 3yo 1995/1998 (60.3%, OB, 1000b, b#102): initially rather neutral, with a dusty hay barn emptied of its hay, this hints at berries too, without really getting there. It does (not really) open up to give dusty wooden flooring or shelves (birch or acacia), and old fudge or faded butter cake in wooden boxes. One's imagination may pick up Virginia tobacco, a faint mint-or-menthol whiff, and burnished copper. The second nose has acrylic paint (Dulux emulsion matt), apple peels, drying on the cutting board, and colour pencils. With water, it falls in line behind honey-coated cereals (honey pops). It retains hay, this time hay bales, yet that is clearly in the background. Suddenly, there is a small explosion of planter flowers -- pansies, tagetes, primroses -- and peach skins. Mouth: burnished-copper dust is more-easily discernible, here, and comes with dry apple pips, dried apple slices, and heaps of dust. Stale honey, spread on rock-hard bread, all covered in dust. Chewing gives out faded toffee, chewy, dusty, almost tasteless, topped with WD-40. Indeed, it has a growing lubricant feel, the longer it stays on the palate. The second sip is an odd mix of honey, acrylic paint, and liquid white glue (wood glue seems likely), augmented with a dash of apple juice and WD-40 (or Décaltou, for those who know). Water cools it down, renders it milkier, and allows orchard fruits to come out more (mostly apples). It does retain a solvent note, WD-40 or furniture polish in a spray can. Finish: the kick is bold, yet not the aggression one may expect from such a high ABV. A couple of seconds post swallowing, it shouts an immense minty sweetness à la mint crumbles. Then, it is a blend of lubricant (WD-40) and cleaning agent, which makes it at once stripping, fresh, and solvent-y, veering towards cellophane and fresh paint. Retro-nasal olfaction catches apples by the basketful (Golden Delicious, Cox, Honeycrisp), crisp, acidic, with a mild sweetness. The second gulp starts off juicier, then brings a boatload of white-wood planks slathered in honey. Behind that is an undeniable heat, however, reminiscent of dusty radiators from the 1970s, painted over twice, then left alone for three-or-four decades to gather a crust of dust. It is only at this point that the strength becomes obviously dangerous: too much of this will probably make for a sore head. And then, apple slices and pips re-join the dance. With water, it turns all nutty, teeming with almond cream, Brazil-nut body butter, coconut oil, even, and hazelnut spread, slightly bitter, yet creamy nonetheless. Lingering at the death, we find toasted pine cones, which is always pleasant. Positively-interesting whisky. 7/10 (Thanks, EG)

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