Tonight, PS does another sold-out member takeover at the SMWS. JS and I thought we would turn up on the off chance that someone would call off, in which case, we would take their seats. I had food poisoning last night, so, at the last minute, I decide not to go. It will take me another two weeks to feel well enough to try whisky again, but that is another story. JS, on the other hand, does go to the room. Only to realise she had tickets all along. Lolle.
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| Thanks to PS, JS and JP, samples will later find their way to tOMoH. Woo. |
Dram #1
Nose: it is enticing from the off, with physalis, Mirabelle plums and a spoonful of honey. It is sweeter with each sniff, flirting with Lyle's Golden Syrup, then yellow cherry tomatoes seared in a pan and rightly caramelising, peach jelly, melon jam -- lots of melon, in fact: canary and Galia, cubed and coated in agar-agar. The second nose has generous pastry, namely mille-feuille, croissant filled with pineapple jam, and grapefruit vanilla custard, all served on limestone plates laid on a pile of birch logs overtaken by mosses and decay. Mouth: it stings more than expected and has a certain bitterness that tries (and fails) to compete with similar notes to what we found on the nose: melon jam, sweet gelatine, agar-agar, and even chopped mint, here, which imparts a green freshness that works a treat. Chewing adds a dose of honey, perhaps crunchy digestive biscuits, and increases the leafy bitterness to bring it close to rubber levels. Chewy dried fruits, maybe? The second sip is just as punchy, acidic, if not stripping, and a little green. We find yellow tomatoes and Mirabelle plums sprinkled with pine sap. Finish: it reclaims an unabashed sweetness, one that is closer to candied angelica than to honey, though. Melon jam still prevails, stewed rhubarb augmented with liquorice allsorts, apricot jam, yellow cherry tomatoes on the vine. The second gulp unleashes honey at first, then pine sap. It is as if bees has started making honey out of pine flowers, then, halfway through, had decided to do away with the honey business and started putting the pine sap in jars instead. It dies out with a puff of candied angelica and a drop of Mirto Verde. Comment: this one works, but the nose elevates it to a higher score. I reckon a grain, or a Littlemill.
G10.2 35yo d.1977 Sweet and substantial (57.8%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Barrel, 136b) 8/10 (I finally try this on 29/09/2025)
Dram #2
Nose: green, green, green. For some reason, I want to say "jellied eels", which makes no sense, because it does not smell fishy at all. However, it is green and jellied alright. Let us imagine some kind of jellied vegetable (spinach or watercress), or a particular brand of ambrosia salad, one that is mostly mayonnaise and green marshmallows. The nose shakes that up to focus on salad leaves with a nice oily tarragon dressing and a vague sweetness. I recognise this profile, although I cannot place it. The second nose seems bolder and fruitier, with pomelo peels and dried grapefruit zest liberally sprinkled on vanilla custard, crushed bergamot leaves, stewed clementine segments and, maybe, just maybe, rhubarb shavings. Mouth: delicate, a little leafy and remotely sweet, it unfolds on the tongue like a mint jelly, sweet, fresh, meltingly chewy, and pleasant, more of a backing singer than anything that commands much attention. Chewing injects crystallised oranges, which, surprisingly enough, quickly overtakes the above. With time, wood becomes apparent too, slices of sappy conifer. The second sip doubles down on green, with jellied citrus foliage and the candied (mint) leaf bakers use to top a Rum Baba. That is all splashed with lukewarm citrus juice. Finish: it is more-easily recognisable as pine driven, here, to a point I wonder if it could be a Benrinnes. Nothing invasive again; just a lovely freshness that is tempting to associate with pine, and a lingering sappy bitterness. It is a tad numbing too. It leaves the gob coated in a sweet pine paste, comparable to what one feels after eating baklava. The second gulp too seems sweeter and fruitier, adding citrus segments to what remains a pine-sap-oriented number, all in all. Comment: I shall guess Benrinnes. Incorrectly.
58.7 27yo 1977/2005 A fruity explosion (45.8%, SMWS Society Cask) 8/10 (I finally try this on 29/09/2025)
Dram #3
Nose: here is a different beast that presents drinks cabinets made of mahogany, and lacquered jewel boxes. That opens up to reveal a bold, fruity profile, one ripe with cured apples, plums, nectarines and blueberries, all so ripe they are about to start fermenting. Unless there is a glass of wine nearby. With some imagination, we may even spot lychee liqueur. And then, an interesting modelling paint joins (Revell, either RAL 5022 Night blue, or RAL 5013 Lufthansa blue), augmented with stale plaster glue. How quaint! The second nose is dustier, a mix of sawdust (birch, acacia), confectionary sugar and bone-dry lemon zest. Then, without warning, we pull back in on waxy nectarines, plums and unripe berries with a glass of Manzanilla. It becomes gradually earthier too, which is a welcome progression. Mouth: ooh! Bitter! We find plastic grapes, clear varnish, unripe fruits sprinkled with a pinch of chalk. It retains a distant blueish fruitiness, yet it is quite the departure from the nose, all in all. Chewing adds a tart jam-like quality, with enough acidity to counteract the bitterness, but this is not easy on the palate. Green hazelwood coated in date syrup shows up. The second sip is sweeter and waxier, close to nectarine skins and blackcurrants soaked in a liqueur of sorts. The earlier bitterness, though more controlled, resurfaces, and we find ourselves with unripe blueberries, albeit dunked in the wax of a purple candle. Indeed, there is even a whiff of wick, here. Finish: unripe berries, bitter and acidic. One can sense a lot of yellow fruits at play (plum, Mirabelle plum, greengage), but they simply are not ripe enough to succeed. Instead, we are subjected to green hazelwood. The second gulp is a little riper. One gets the impression that, given a few months' breathing, this would offer a basket of fruits. As it stands, it is the lacquered wicker basket that talks over said fruits. Perhaps it has herbs in jelly. By now, it no longer seems to matter all that much. Comment: lovely nose. The rest does not live up to it. A Glencadam? It is probably not metallic enough for that.
21.25 27yo 1976/2004 Peaches and soft toffee (49.2%, Society Cask, Refill Hogshead) 7/10 (I finally try this on 03/10/2025)
Dram #4
Nose: a suede jacket and tan moccasins. That suggests an earthy outlook, one that is swiftly submerged by yellow-fruit flesh (no skin) and a dollop of a sticky liquid (part syrup, part varnish). It takes seconds for that to fall under the attack of Turkish delights, however, served with desert dirt. That earthy note never disappears: it just watches as the other aromas fight for the second place, in full knowledge that it will forever be the dominant constant of this evolving nose. Earthy desert dirt sticks to a horse's hair after a day's galloping. The second nose confirms all of the above, yet shuffles them and presents them in a random order. The horse is doused in pressed fruits (mostly berries, now) and tramples a suede jacket on the desert-dirt floor of a wine cellar. There is a puff of cigarette smoke too, which is rather unexpected. Mouth: ooft! this is varnishy. To some extent, it reminds of a shoemaker's workshop, though it is not heady or aggressive. It does present a blend of glues, varnishes, leathers, even rubber (without the overwhelming bitterness). We find some waxy fruits too, namely nectarines and fresh figs soaked in red wine. It has a whiff of horse's sweat, but it is a far cry from the nose's cavalcade. The focus is clearly on fruits, here -- fruits that come close to berries with time. The second sip introduces a berry-flavoured cigarette too, which is to say oily tobacco and smoked berries. Well, it even has grilled peaches, now. Finish: long, bold and fruity, this has the quality one would expect of a grand-cru wine. Fruity, dry, a tad earthy, leathery as a polished sofa, it has just enough tannins to pique one's interest, not enough for anyone to complain. Blush-orange segments, ripe elderberry and a glass of Burgundy (Gevrey-Chambertin 1995 to say something and appear knowledgeable). Barbecued fruits rock up at second gulp, peaches, apricots, pineapple rings, all sprinkled with red wine before being grilled. It turns out to be pretty drying upon repeated quaffing -- the desert dirt without a doubt. It has less leather and horse character, now, and cigarettes are less vivid than on the palate, reduced to a lingering smoke that is hard to fully apprehend. Comment: this is excellent. Parts of it hint at Glen Elgin, but then it could also be a Clynelish, or even an ancient Longrow.
26.89 27yo d.1984 An exotic tearoom experience (56.6%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill Sherry Butt, 485b) 8/10 (I finally try this on 03/10/2025)
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| We had this when it came out. I liked it then and I like it now. |
Dram #5
Nose: this is another earthy one, with rich-soil fields crisped by the summer sun, mud patties drying on a griddle, and a cow's behind on a dry late-summer day. That is suddenly supplemented with a more-maritime feel, dried kelp, fishing nets and salted Brighton Rock. Huh? Shaking the glass vigorously will reveal tarry sands and a whisper of diesel in otherwise-brisk sea air. It may well come back to dry earth, after a few minutes, and brings in burnt hazel sticks. The second nose seems smokier, with smoked roots of some kind, smoked banana peels, cooling embers. Gone is the earth, vanished has the sea air. Odd. There is a whisper of fruity windscreen defroster, far in the back. Mouth: very maritime on the tongue, it has sandy mussels, smoked cockles and a shovelful of tarry sands. Next to them are black rubber soles, camphor, liquorice bootlaces, and a type of bark or another -- eucalyptus? Liquorice sticks? It is fresh and bitter, rubbery. It is bitterer yet at second sip, now showcasing windscreen defroster indeed, in a bright-blue taint. Chewing adds a gentle sweetness to balance out the bitterness, part caster sugar, part natural sugars of fruits (Golden apple, greengage), and even buttery croissant. Finish: assertive rather than bold, it seems to do away with the earthy elements, as well as the maritime ones. Instead, it focuses on camphor and liquorice-y rubber. We find dolmas or vine leaves, blackberry cough drops, liquorice and tar. Tarry it is too, as the finish sticks to the gob like a menthol cigarette: fresh, slightly smoky and tarry. The second gulp dials down all that and allows burnt hazel and smoked Golden Delicious apples to express themselves intelligibly. Comment: knowing PS, I should guess Croftengea. This tastes more like a Caol Ila or a Staoisha to me, though. Or is it a Springbank? In any case, it is pretty good, even if the tar is a bit loud for me.
93.19 14yo 1991/2006 Honey sweet Arbroath smokie (60.3%, SMWS Society Cask, 288b) 7/10 (I finally try this on 06/10/2025)
Dram #6
Nose: here is a leafy-fruity nose, with the foliage of produce such as grapefruit, yellow-green apple and maracuja. Indeed, it becomes rather tropical. Buddha's hand, oroblanco, salted calamansi, even grilled dragon fruit. Now, all that is tame, mind. All the same, we have a mixture of citrus, tropical fruits and salt. A margarita, in other words. Further on, we detect sweet, juicy peach. The second nose confirms a depth that only long ageing can offer, still with fruits of the citrus and tropical varieties, and a whiff of old-school mineral smoke; gunpowder and matchbox strikers alongside boiler-room heat and smoked citrus. Mouth: salty! It is at once sharp as salted vinegar and soft as peach flesh dusted with confectionary sugar. Chewing unlocks an intense fruitiness that is difficult to identify with precision. It also has a gentle metallic side that goes well with the salt. I am somehow reminded of ancient aged bottlings, the likes of which Gordon & MacPhail or Cadenhead have released -- and not for decades. What is this!? The second sip has this unmistakable old-school profile, with smoked grapefruits, preserved lemons, peach slices warmed on a dusty boiler, sooty marmalade (not an overtly-bitter one), and heated tinned mango slices. Phwoar! Finish: warm peach flesh alright, cut with a hot knife, sprinkled with droplets of citrus juice (grapefruit, Shaddock pomelo, blush orange). Only the bite of alcohol clears suspicions this could be an ancient Gordon & MacPhail or Cadenhead offering. As the finish unfolds, mint crumbles become discernible, fresh and sweet. There is a lick of liquorice allsorts too (lick-o-rish) that supply a mild toasted bitterness. The second gulp has physalis in syrup, smoked peach slices on a hot zinc plate, and the heat and dust one would expect to come out of an old boiler room. The stones of those peaches are there too, now, hand in hand with preserved lemons, which make for a race between calm bitterness, tame acidity and brine. Warming, comforting, with that magical balance of dusty-briny smoke and juicy fruits. Comment: head and shoulder above the others. Perhaps my score is overly generous, but I really like this. Later, I will discover that PS chose this, a second 26, because he suspects it is actually a mislabelled cask of 61. He may well be right.
26.45 22yo 1983//2005 Sweets and peats (54.7%, SMWS Society Cask, 255b) 9/10 (I finally try this on 06/10/2025)
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| With thanks to JS, PS and JP. The big reveal comes on 10/10/2025. |
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