30/11/2025 The GlenDronach

The GlenDronach 9yo 2002/2011 (57.8%, OB Single Cask specially selected by The Nectar, Virgin Oak Hogshead, C#4522, 317b): nose: a woollen mill full of Harris tweed. This has the type of warming breath that feels logical on a late-autumn day. It soon gives a waxy vibe and that means the promise of a chewy texture more than the smell of furniture polish, in this case. Dried peach slices, dried mango slices and physalis are slowly joined by a growing flowery perfume. Lily-of-the-valley turns into jasmine, then lilac, more and more fragrant, without ever reaching heady levels. All of a sudden, it stabilises and focuses on wood -- untreated white-wood shelves, to be precise. The second nose has chocolate straight away, caramel flan, fruit squash augmented with lemon-thyme leaves and orange segments, almost too dried to eat. Wood comes back later on, with cask staves. Mouth: delicate for a second, it swiftly reveals a punchier profile in which wood stain takes over the initial peach note. Chewing pours carbonyl on chopped green chilli and red-chilli flakes, and that, in turn, makes room for relentless young wood. A quick look at the label confirms what we may have guessed: virgin oak. That reminds one why not many producers use those casks, and why those who do bottle the resulting whisky young: the wood overpowers the distillate in no time. Here, we have round white pepper, ground galangal, and ginger powder blended with a pinch of asafoetida. It takes a couple of minutes on the palate for the taste buds to finally spot a custardy touch -- a spicy custard, mind. The second sip has a puff of cigarette, then dusty old radiators in full swing. This has its share of dried orange peels, partly crispy, partly blue with mould. Again, keeping it in the mouth stirs the spices, and they become vibrant and louder than anything else. Finish: strong and spicy, it is less woody and, thankfully, fruitier. We have dried peach slices, dried physalis and dried papaya cubes, distinguishable, if coated in ground white pepper, ginger powder and grated nutmeg. It has mixed peel too, shy and seasoned with the same spices. Indeed, it is a warming, spicy number, this one! The second gulp seems a lot fruitier, with orange rinds, juicier than the ones we found earlier, and used as decoration on top of a thick caramel custard. There is sweetness on display alright, yet the dominant, now, is a pleasant bitter note imparted by orange and caramel. Not to be fooled, however: the finish still has ginger powder, asafoetida and even grated lemongrass. Simply, they are no longer as boisterous as they were, upon repeated quaffing. This is good. 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, OB)