18/12/2025 Lochside

Lochside 37yo 1981/2018 (48.6%, The Whisky Agency, Butt): nose: it is immediately fruity, but actually not as much as I expected. We have lychee and rambutan complemented by paint (for some reason, the green uniforms of Britains Deetail U.S. Infantry come to mind, which, at Humbrol's, would be closest to Bright Green, AA0037) and other volatile esters, such as carbonyl, and apple peels. That does progress towards mangosteen and dragon fruit, but it is not solely fruity, although breathing time calmly increases the fruitiness, what with mango slices and tinned peaches joining the parade. Let us put the emphasis on the word 'tinned', here: it is tinny alright. Tinned white-grapefruit segments, tinned apricots, if such a thing exists, tinned cantaloupe (yup). The second nose is more-clearly citric, with citrus peels and leaves, and, sadly, fewer of the tropical fruits. Some may find Sugus or Starburst too (lime flavour), and just a vague reminiscence of dragon fruit and cherimoya, as well as reddish grapes (Flame) on the vine. Mouth: acidic and woody upon entry, it timidly develops a fruity side. with pineapple bark, honeydew melon and guava. Chewing transforms this into full-on fruity debauchery, with carambola, unripe pineapple, pomelo and even lime. It is somewhat green and bitter, but oh! so good. Next, we have frosted glasses (a cut lime segment helps the sugar stick to the rim of the glass), cucumber peels and unripe clementines. The second sip is just as acidic and potent, yet it becomes creamy over a short period of time. Cherimoya, unripe banana and yellow kiwi meet yellow peaches and cucumber peels. Indeed, it keeps a bitter touch, which it displays once the acidic main act has done its thing. Further sips deploy a lovely dark honey spread onto Ryvita Original Crackerbread, with but a sprinkle of ginger powder. Finish: refreshingly fruity, it takes only ten seconds to radiate a comfortable tropical heat, akin to sipping a cocktail by the pool. A long, pleasant finish with a lasting fruity bitterness -- lime zest, citrus leaves (tangerine, maybe?) and crushed mint. The second gulp seems bolder from the get-go, with a kick of wood (oiled acacia), but also cured apples and apricots. That is right: there is something remotely wine-y in this, even if it is not a loud, vulgar Sherry cask. It is fruitier and creamier again over time. That said, if it is decidedly elegant, it is not the ridiculous fruit bomb that Lochside from this vintage can be; this has other things to offer too, and that is equally marvellous. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, OB)