23/02/2026 Kilchoman

Kilchoman 6yo b.2024 Port Cask Matured (50%, OB, Ruby Port Casks, 24/96) : nose: a bold slap of tarry mud and ink. A few seconds of opening up and we have whelks sprayed with diesel, tarry sands still wet from the lapping, iodine, crushed seashells and India ink, followed by greasy earth. It peddles some smoke too, of course, somewhere between smoked lobster and barbecued shrimps, between barbecue sauce and teriyaki sauce. It may well have a soft whiff of dairy too, yet that could also be this taster's mind playing tricks: after all, Kilchoman is known for having a yoghurt-y profile. It is certainly not pronounced enough here to be affirmative. The barbecue side, on the other hand, is hard to deny. The second nose is a tad fruitier; it displays roasted apples, baked plums and dark grapes rolled in soot. Mouth: barbecue indeed. Charred pineapple rings, charred marinated ribs, teriyaki again. Chewing dials the char to unhealthy levels, with beef turned black and crusty, yet somehow retaining some juices, a fireplace-cleaning kit, pineapple falling into black dust. Then, gradually, we progress towards seafood, also charred to bits. Whelks, cockles, winkles, all charred to ashy dust, then sprinkled with petrol. The second sip welcomes peaches, at first raw but ripe, then juiced and sprinkled with with charcoal gratings. That latter note takes over in seconds and brings in its wake a dash of lemon juice. Perhaps it has pomelo zest too, in amongst all that soot and grated charcoal. Finish: softer than anticipated, and much more vegetal. Here are dried algae, dusty lichens, empty vases, mosses crumbling to dust. Oh! and, of course, char and diesel join shortly thereafter, albeit more discreet than they were on the palate. The second gulp feels more acidic, with a mix of citrus (pomelo) and berries (cranberries) jousting with drying charcoal and soot. Immediately behind them are those dried algae, still clinging to en empty vase, windthrow in the coppices, decades-old cut branches entirely covered in lichen. That obscures the fruits a bit; they are definitely there, but in the shadow of other, bolder notes of dried and burnt vegetal matter. This is good. Where is the influence of the Port, though? 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, adc)