Mortlach 19yo 1996/2015 (53.5%, The Vintage Malt Whisky Co. The Cooper's Choice, Bourbon Cask, C#0279, 330b): nose: ah! This is a light and fruity one, with beeswax, tangerine peel, a delicate touch of ink, fresh fig and Chinese gooseberry. Unexpectedly, the ink grows in power and turns almost into gouache paint. Butter later appears, fresh and milky, then clotted cream, or, in fact, margarine. Mouth: soft and mellow, the mouth has the ink and gouache of the mouth, complementing gentle citrus -- satsuma, kumquat and tangerine, mandarin and bergamot. There is nothing beastly, here, and that is good news to me! The second sip brings a little chalk, which gives the palate some additional character. A pinch of ground chilli, perhaps, though it is never too bold or hot. Finish: the finish is long, with an alcohol kick, yet what comes through is in line with the above: soft fruits, a bit of beeswax and a few drops of ink. Clover honey, clotted cream and satsuma close the show. This is a good breakfast dram! 7/10 (Thanks for the sample, LM)
76.110 27yo d.1986 Summer fruit salad with cream (58.8%, SMWS Society Single Cask, Refill ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 242b): nose: this is virtually the same nose, though slightly less expressive -- quite a surprise, when one considers it is 5% stronger. Need a nose reset. There. This has ink and bergamot, and the latter includes the leaves. That means it is more leafy and herbaceous, rather than plainly fruity. Actually, the fruit very much takes a back seat and allows more wood notes to come forth; wormwood, old shelves and fudge. It retains some of the citrus, subtle. Behind that, a spoonful of margarine reminds me of the Cooper's Choice expression I just had. Past that margarine, the citrus comes back in full force, satsuma the loudest. Interesting and multi-faceted, this. Mouth: superb balance with very-well-integrated alcohol. The palate has beeswax, honey, squashed citrus and, once more, a drop of ink. Also on display is the slight acidity of raw dairy, a pinch of red chilli and thick custard. Finish: the finish is fruity too, with lots of satsuma and bergamot, leaves included, clotted cream, fresh butter, another drop of ink and distant cardboard, cork and bung cloth. Later, it breathes caramel, toffee and, maybe, mochaccino. Both drams have a similar profile. I slightly prefer the SMWS offering. 8/10
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