9/01/2019 One Mortlach

Mortlach 14yo 2003/2017 (55%, Cadenhead Rum Cask, Guyana Rum Cask since 2014, 240b): nose: at first quite shy, it has pear drops, dried pineapple cubes and candied peach slices. Then, a vague woodiness comes along, accompanying rum dryness -- Demerara sugar on old staves. Further, it is stewed carambola, candied kiwi and something green -- could it be angelica? Rum-toft, banana rum, lime peel and pine drops complete the picture. The Beast of Dufftown shows no meat, here, which is good news to me. At a push, dry-cured ham, but so far away I blame suggestion. Suggestion brings me as far as thinly-sliced, cured ham on melon slices. Mouth: wow! The zestiness of lime and pomelo, combined with strong brown sugar... and some horsepower! This is is pungent and acidic, really beautiful, actually! Unripe pineapple, crisp, green apple, lime segments, unripe satsumas, rum ice cream, a pinch of grated ginger, candied ginger. Fruity brandy comes out last, still propelled by the brown sugar. Finish: the sugar subsides somewhat, making room for loads and loads of zesty citrus: lime and pomelo again, green-citrus peel, clementine leaves, bergamot. This one has the warmth of rum and the drying finish of a grappa. It works a treat, though. The second sip brings bold, fruity white wine (Chardonnay). So bold I have to check I have not taken someone else's glass by mistake. Of course, it is slightly stronger than wine. :-) Demerara sugar re-emerges, more timid. White wine, really! 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, RO)