To celebrate Jesus's supposed birthday, let us have a couple of adequate whiskies. In this country, where Christmas dessert is understood to be two trowels of cement and raisins, left to macerate in a bucket for 364 days, a Christmas dram has come to mean anything chock-a-block with dried fruits. Mostly, that translates into something matured in a first-fill sherry, Port of Madeira cask.
Anyway, back to Jesus's birth, now, because, since the Big Lebowski, one should know that "Nobody vucks wit za Jesus."
Blend On The Run 29yo b.2020 (45.6%, Signatory Vintage for Whisky Sponge, First Fill Sherry Butt for 13 Years, 314b): we had this two nights ago, but if not now, then when again? Nose: despite what I said the other day, the first think that gets to me tonight is rancio. Musty, clay-floored warehouses, drums of Madeira, rows and rows of stacked Madeira drums, earthy prunes, and a whiff of musk -- picture a cat who spent the day outside. Dried dates and figs are in the background, somewhat hidden behind roasted chestnut shells, then distant coffee. Maybe there is a dollop of caramelised cranberry compote too, yet it is as subtle as they come. In fact, the whole nose is subdued. Mouth: juicy on the tongue, sweet and warming, it has gently-burnt apricot compote, soon taken over by prunes, plum liqueur, rum baba, and a clear note of rancio, which flirts with damp earth, now. That last one turns into peachy coffee, almost desiccating. It really is fruity and drying at the same time, and that works a treat. Repeated sipping reveals a juicier profile, still earthy and fruity in equal measures. Finish: oh! It is definitely peach coffee, freshly ground and toasted. The more one sips it, the fruitier and less dry it becomes, with hazelnut and dried raspberry joining the peach. Earth is still present, whilst coffee... Well, if it is, it is very much in the back seat. Instead, it is closer to a tiny sprinkle of grated, ridiculously-dark chocolate -- we are talking above 95% cocoa content. It is certainly a sherried whisky, but I would not call it a Christmas dram as I understand that to mean. It is pleasant alright, even great to sip. Yet the nose is a tad too tame to thrill this taster (how many words in 't' can you align in a sentence? I just did seven). Indeed: 7/10
Bunnahabhain 11yo b.2020 (54.2%, OB Hand-Filled Exclusive, Manzanilla Cask, C#3212): nose: dusty marmalade, puff pastry, quince paste, candied apricot, candied pineapple. It smells sweet, yet also quieter than the other night. The temperature, perhaps? It is noticeably colder tonight... Still: pressed sultanas in custard become more evident. Shortbread, crushed into a powder. Caramelised apple compote. In the long run, the nose turns more caramelised and toasted, even displaying toasted malt and coffee grounds. Mouth: 'ere we are! On the tongue, it is sickly sweet, with conference pears so ripe they melt out of their own accord, vanilla custard, blended with overripe pears, sultanas, golden raisins, Smyrna raisins, İzmir üzümü (look at me! Look at me!), dried apricots, quince paste, dried dates that have somehow remained juicy as fook. Then, a gently bitter note appears, almost rubbery -- odd, but a pleasant respite from the sugary onslaught. Finish: mellow and soft, while also very sweet. Membrillo, Lyle's Golden Syrup, sweet Moscatel sherry, Beaumes de Venise, Gewürztraminer vendanges tardives, in which the producer would have dumped tons of confectionery sugar. Is this sweet? You bet! Wheelbarrows of sultanas (Smyrna, Izmir), golden raisins and dried dates, punctuated with cooked blood oranges, rinds and all. And a pinch of coffee grounds to boot! This is a Christmas dram, as they say. It is not for everyone, though. It is not my personal preference today more than it was last week. If that is one's thing, one might want to consider drinking sherry. 6/10 (Thanks for the sample, PF)
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