7 March 2022

07/03/2022 Port Dundas

Port Dundas 10yo (60.2%, Cadenhead Authentic Collection World Whiskies, 318b, b. ca 1998): tOMoH believes this is the first Port Dundas bottled by Cadenhead. It came out in the late 1990s, which suggests a 1988 distillation. All the Port Dundas by this bottler since then have been from 1988, so they would appear to be all part of the same parcel of casks. Nose: typical Port Dundas aromas, with tinned pineapples, sage, marjoram and verbena. Deeper nosing tones down the metal, hiding it under a layer of lichen and ground dry sage sprinkled on tin cans. Pineapple slices cling to the nose, but they are very much in the background, now. The juice they were kept in is completely tainted by tin and dusty metal of sorts. As one tilts the glass, the juice turns into caramelised syrup. The second nose introduces a cold moka pot (empty). Water adds some welcome custard to the nose to complement fresh pineapple. Mouth: tinny and spectacularly salty, it is also powerful and a half (with no surprise, one might add). Here, it has tins of wood stain and bitter herbs (verbena, marjoram) to match the metallic sweetness of tinned pineapple -- again: left in the tin for too long and completely stained by it. Tinned mandarin slices and verdigris come tickle the nostril as well. The second sip is fruitier and dishes out pomelo segments and pith, which makes for an unexpectedly balanced acidic-come-bitter-come-sweet side. It also has hot, dusty metal. Water makes it sweeter, yet, though there is no dramatic change. Finish: pomelo-skin shavings, dried lime zest and salt. This makes me think of margarita: tequila, citrus and salt. The finish retains some of the herbs, while the tin recedes. Oh! it is still there, mind. It only comes out as a tease, very late in the game is all. At this stage, it is ground green-citrus peel's game. Repeated sipping makes this dangerously desiccating and leaves the tongue throbbing. It also brings back metal, cleaner now than it seemed before, yet still warm. Water oddly makes it bolder in the finish, with a dash of menthol. It seems like water takes the metallic edge off the whole, somehow. Perhaps too generously, I shall go to... 8/10

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