Dornoch 3yo 2017/2020 (59.4%, OB, Sherry Cask, C#001): nose: it does not hide its young age. It is plum eau-de-vie, decaying pears and plum flesh. There is a vaguely earthy hue too, as well as walnut stain. Polished nut shells, dried shoe polish and shoe brushes, old rags... Breathing does wonders, here, rooting out the initial young and spirit-y impression. The second nose sees maple-syrup-glazed cured bacon, which is as welcome as it is unexpected. An earthy side is now bolder too, with damp clay and mud cakes, drying in the timid sun. Mouth: thin, strong and bitter, it has herbal plasticine (do not ask), unripe hazelnut and pear eau-de-vie. Keeping it in the mouth allows it to turn chewy, much in contrast with the thinness of the entrance. Then, the bitter, nutty notes from the nose return -- walnut vinegar, nut shells, green hazelnut and unripe plums. The second sip cranks up the heat and, if it is not frankly scorched earth, it is certainly pointing that way. Let us call it scorched plasticine. Finish: on the one hand, it is still bitter and green; on the other, it is a piece of dark-wood furniture with a coat of patina half a centimetre thick. Yes, here are polished-walnut armchairs rubbing feathers with green hazelnut (and winning). It leaves the mouth as if coated in some kind of dark wax (hence the polished walnut), yet hazelnut oil still permeates through it, as does a drop of plum vinegar. This is promising, but it currently lacks focus. Granted, the sweetness seems more balanced after having spent over a year in an open sample. We will see how good Dornoch really is when it reaches a decent age. 6/10
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