19 April 2022

19/04/2022 Tullibardine

It appears we have not tasted any Tullibardine for two years, and this particular expression in almost a decade. :-O


Tullibardine 33yo 1972/2006 (43.1%, Dewar Rattray Cask Collection, C#2597, 141b): nose: every time I see this bottle, I wonder if I liked it so much because it was 2006 and my experience with old whiskies was more modest. And every time I nose this, I am forced to face the (agreeable) fact that this is a belter. We have warm apple pie, warm plum tart, apricot jelly, propolis and honeys of all sorts (although acacia and prickle pear dominate), beeswax on an old polishing rag that is starting to harden, distant copper coins in a glass jar with a tin lid, and furniture polish in a spray canister. This is all fresh and glossy, waxy and fruity. Breathing time allows chestnut purée to emerge, as well as balls of wax that have been stored too close to the fireplace and, by right, start to reek of dust and burnt old wood. Something delicately floral hovers in the background, perhaps lilac, honeysuckle or cherry blossom. The second nose adds a whiff of dead leaves and forest floor, perhaps overripe apples, which gives this a more-autumnal scent I am pretty fond of. Mouth: slightly drier than anticipated, it is still very much a fruity number, with dried apricots and desiccated plum tart, though not a crumbly one; it is chewy instead. There is a very faint bitter note of green hazel that harks back to chestnut purée, now. The second sip feels juicier and sticky at the same time: the great return of pouring honey and the arrival of prickle-pear jelly, then. This is now very sweet, not far off Turkish delights, yet it feels balanced and not sickly in the slightest. In fact, it is simply perfect. Time sees it take a step towards dry nuts. Finish: amazingly elegant. The chestnut purée is now loud and clear, supported by dried apricots, ground into a mulch. Despite the low ABV, this finish sticks to the palate forever and a day, like a blend of set honey and wax. Further gulps do not deviate much from that; perhaps they add some kind of nutshells or hazelnut paste, and, eventually, tulip stems in a fresh vase to greet honey-glazed milk chocolate with chunky hazelnuts. In case it is not clear, I still love this. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)

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