25 April 2022

25/04/2022 Cognac Show... at home (Part 3 -- the after-party)

More Cogn-... brandy!


Mansion House XO Brandy (42.8%, Tilaknagar Industries, B#235, b.2020): nose: pretty muted. Distant camphor, perhaps? Neutral alcohol? At a push, one may find timid lubricant for circular-saw blades, but there is really not much happening, here. A whiff of wilted tulip petals, maybe? Faded hazelnuts? Mouth: oh. Nothing, for a second, then a rather intense floral touch invades the palate, jasmine strongest, and white lilac. Then, suddenly, it is chewy sweets, with a fruit fragrance so strong it tastes entirely chemical. Turkish delights, tutti frutti, Haribo bananas, Sugus sweets, dried peach slices. Repeated sipping leaves the lips numbed, as if anaesthetised by neutral alcohol. Finish: narrow and relatively short, the finish has neutral alcohol and fruit flavouring (again: tutti frutti or Turkish delights, maybe candied nuts). It feels as though the various compounds have not blended together with a high level of success, yet the result is quite decent, as an easy, refreshing drink. 5/10 (Thanks, RM)


Let us not finish on a semi-disappointment.


Très Vieux Cognac Grande Champagne Vallein Tercinier Lot n°65 50yo 1965/2015 (54.4%, OB for Wealth Solutions): I was sure I got this sample from Cavalier66, but the label reads: "Thx CS." Nose: it is, of course, entirely unfair for the Mansion House to be followed by what just may be the best Cognac in living memory, but well. There is an earthy tapestry, here, punctuated by tons of lively fruits. Peaches, white and yellow, apricot, mango, jackfruit, guava, plum, vin de glace, and a sprinkle of dust. It seems tamer than I remember the Lot 65 at 47%, but it still has loads to talk about. Candied oranges, mixed peel, kumquats, but also gardening tools, in the back. Upon second nosing, the earthy background grows and comes closer to the fore, root-y and earthy. Black cardamom, coffee grounds... aaaaaand the fruits are back! Peach skins, smoked quince... Mouth: it kicks bouteille, especially when compared to its predecessor, and the tropical character of it is spectacular. Mango and maracuja (purple, yellow, gulupa, banana passion fruit) are emitting loud and clear, backed by ground ginger and nutmeg. The second sip brings a dusting of Szechuan pepper on halved nectarines, something between green capsicum and cantaloupe (!), and some kind of volatile compound evaporating from an oak cask. Finish: the dialogue between the fruits and the wood is hypnotising. In quick succession, we have sweet and acidic maracuja, cedarwood, nectarines, ginger powder, peach, mocha, coffee even, mandarines, rose-petal jelly, candied angelica -- there is even flipping frangipane in this. Only a minor bitterness that I associate with grape brandy will prevent top score. Still. Rulez, innit. 9/10 (Thanks for the sample, CS)


Aight. That is enough Cognac for several years, probably!

1 comment:

  1. I've never tried the 54.4% version, but Vallein-Tercinier themselves told me that most people preferred the 47% version, so I thought your comparison was interesting... and probably spot on!? In other words, it may not be just a memory thing, but that the reduction unleashed some additional aroma.

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