06/09/2022 Glendronach

Glendronach 23yo 1990/2013 (49.5%, Cadenhead Small Batch, Bourbon Hogsheads, 534b, 13/468): at twenty-three years of age, it is at that stage where spirit-y turns fruity, and -- surprisingly -- only at that stage. In other words, we have fruits, sure, yet we also still have fruit eau-de-vie. Plums, mirabelle plums and greengages, sprayed in Quetsch. Behind that fruit is a warming impression that does not come from the eau-de-vie, rather from a tame coal fire. It gives this an industrial-era dimension that will certainly please some, however faint it is. Several minutes later, and out of nowhere, a clear note of strawberry appears, then a leafier touch, akin to a herbs poultice, held down with gauze. That actually opens the door to a flood of further herbal notes, though we are now in a kitchen, smelling jars of oregano, rosemary and marjoram. The second nose welcomes the leather outer soles of posh shoes, and the leather seats of a new Jaguar (tan coloured). Raw grain ends up front and centre, in the long run, or is it faded wooden camembert boxes? Mouth: well, the herbs have followed us thus far. The attack has the bitterness of too generous a pinch of herbs (oregano, marjoram, crushed bay leaves), and the freshness of spearmint, not too far from peppermint, in terms of intensity. It mellows down a bit, yet retains the strong freshness of mentholated lozenges. Oh! It packs a punch too, by the way. Not a dram that knocks one's teeth out, yet it is not a mild tickle either. The texture is thin at first, then, once the alcohol bite has been overcome, it turns into the mentholated gel of lozenges. The second sip seems to have more black pepper, while being creamier at the same time. A peppery mint-and-plum paste, if that makes sense. Looking really hard and with intent, one could find traces of the strawberry from the nose too. Traces. Patience rewards the taster with shards of cassia bark. Finish: it is sweeter, here, for a moment at least. The mentholated freshness soon catches up, from which point it is cough lozenges aplenty, eucalyptus-and-mint fruit jellies, and fluoride. In the finish too, repeated sipping adds traces of strawberries, though it may be the creamy ginger paste topped with cinnamon dust that stands out, now. Coal fire is reduced to a memory, kept alive by the warmth only. As for the plums from the beginning only towards the death do they manifest themselves in the form of soft fruity sweetness. Very good! 8/10