13/09/2022 Convalmore

Convalmore 22yo 1984/2007 (52.2%, Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength imported by Classic Wine Imports Inc., Refill Sherry Hogshead, C#1538, JG/CJG): nose: rather medicinal in an alcohol sanitiser way, this has ether and gauze, alcohol swabs and white spirit (as in: unaged, not the paint remover). That only lasts for a second, however. Then, we have delicately-fruity overtones, though it is not fresh fruits -- rather pink ,fruit-scented pencil erasers, or even scented crayons. Underneath that, and not really hidden, is a pinch of soot, which adds a layer of old-school dirtiness. Toasted cereals, borderline burnt, smashed strawberries on rusk, and the return of alcohol, in the form of a stencil machine, or xylene. A schizophrenic nose, with attractive and (some might say) repulsive aspects, probably. Of course, that makes it interesting! There is even a waxy note, after a while (crayons again). The fruits become bolder on the second nose, though they are not riper. We have mixed nuts and raisins (hazelnuts, coconut shavings, Brazil nuts, sultanas, almonds), served with a shot of Manzanilla that grows in intensity. Mouth: the soot is obvious from the attack onwards, which is at odds with the pouring-honey-like texture and sweetness. This would be a velvety dram, were it not for that bold soot. It has a faint drop of pickle brine too, unripe gooseberries (cue bitterness and acidity), chipped burnt wood, and green hazelnuts. If anything, the second sip increases the soot-y impression, carpeting the tongue with the black stuff. That overshadows the undeniable fruitiness and makes it appear less ripe. The whole grows to a comfortable heat, like a cauldron on a coal fire. Finish: yes, green hazelnuts it is, mashed into a paste. Cider vinegar comes up through retro-nasal olfaction, as does hazel wood. This has something green about it, without the remotest suggestion of immaturity. It is a long finish, and it comes with that green hazelnut paste, creamy enough, yet it cannot shake a certain bitterness. The second sip is much sweeter and brings back honey (dark and set, this time), and throws lots of raisins and currants into the mix to accompany the lingering heat and soot. I really like this, yet I can see it dividing opinions. It is an instant strong 8 for me that may become 9 under different circumstances. In fact, I had it as such, the first two times we tried it (in 2016 and 2017). My notes from then were quite different. 8/10