20/12/2022 Tobermory

Tobermory 24yo 1994/2022 (49.8%, C. Dully specially selected and bottled for Sansibar-Whisky, Sherry Butt, C#10942, 78b): the age statement makes no sense, when one looks at the distillation and bottling dates. It was probably stored in an inert container for a while. Also, it seems I missed this whisky birthday by six days -- it was distilled on the 14th December. Not that it makes a difference. Nose: we have heady wine to start with, then an earthy, game-y wine sauce served with venison -- unless it is coq-au-vin. That turns to clay, mud from a farm path at first, soon becoming pottery. Next are crayon shavings, waxy and colourful. Far in the distance are ripe fruits (apples, white peaches, physalis), yet they struggle to make themselves known, eclipsed by the clay, crayon shavings, and that huge, game-y, wine-sauce layer. The second nose goes back to the initial wine sauce, serving a glass of red alongside cured meat (pheasant or wild pigeon), and lingonberry compote, on a bed of roasted beetroot slices. It is all very crimson, really. There is a drop of lemon juice here too, now. Mouth: astonishingly, it is full-on crayon shavings upon arrival, with melted wax to boot. Modelling clay, interpsersed with grated coconut, waxy nectarine peels, and a generous serving of strong-but-clean wine. The second sip seems more mineral, with slate, dry stone walls, not exactly chalky, but drying all the same. A moment later, wine-y fruits appear, nectarine peels and red-apple slices, either soaked in wine, sangria style, or themselves fermenting into wine. The whole does not shake off a lick of wax -- or is it paraffin? Finish: gentle and mellow, it is mostly sweetness, part warm apple compote, part marzipan, or part marshmallow, part cane sugar. Perhaps shallow-fried nectarine slices too, and a puzzling droplet of brine. The second gulp is bolder without otherwise changing the profile significantly. It is not exactly bursting with flavour, much less multi-faceted; just a solid, enjoyable dram. The nose hinted at this not being my thing, but it ended up very good. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, CD)