20/03/2023 Glen Grant

9.94 26yo Jam and Jerusalem (56.2%, SMWS Society Single Cask): nose: the welcoming scent of baked bread taken out of the oven, the bottom of its crust lovingly browned. That is soon joined by a tannic fruitiness (yup, wine cask), and sawn oak staves that have just been given a lick of wood stain. Deeper nosing plays an earthier score, with mushrooms in potting soil, gently arguing with baking (and baked) parchment, and (very) distant coffee grounds. We have crushed pine cones too, decaying on a forest floor, sprinkled with what could pass for dark-cherry juice, yet is too tart for that. Dark cherries mixed with cranberries, maybe? It smells warmer with every whiff, reinforcing the impression of a bakery oven. The second nose feels earthier, still, with elderberry cordial, dead leaves, and bicycle inner-tubes. At times, it makes me feel of aged Burgundy wine. A longer breathing time gives this a chance to push strawberries into the light (or the nostrils, rather). Mouth: half astringent, half luscious, it is quickly identifiable as a cherry-liqueur-filled, dark-chocolate praline, closer to Mon Chéri than Edle Tropfen. There is the bitterness of shell fruits (hazelnuts, Brazil nuts), and the velvety-syrupy texture of the associated liqueur. The second sip turns that on its head and introduces poached peaches, served with a hog roast. To say it is unexpected would be an understatement! Here is lingonberry compote too, piping hot, yet the peaches prevail, that may well be topped with a red-wine sauce. Earthy, softly tannic, fruity, and gorgeous. It is definitely cranberries, upon repeated sipping. Finish: chocolate praline through and through, augmented with liqueur. It is less clear here whether hazelnut, cherry, a combination of both, and/or something else, but it is brilliant. It is sweeter too, adding a bite of marzipan that mellows down the bitterness we felt on the tongue. Bitterness is still there, mind: it is an earthy-nutty thing, rather than anything unpleasant is all. Perhaps it is the Jerusalem artichokes hinted at by the name of this bottling. The second sip displays some spices, probably a little ginger, ground cloves, cinnamon sticks... Mulled wine? Ah! Go on, then. We may even spot oily Virginia tobacco, and, in the long run, lusher strawberries, likely coated in chocolate. Less in-your-face glazed cherries than the first time we had this. Braw all the same. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, OB)