If it feels like we had this not three days ago, it is because we had.
Dalwhinnie d.1963 (40%, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, b. early 1980s): entering a artisan carpenter's workshop. Here are all sorts of wood glues, wood oils, wood stains, wood lacquers, all blended, all fairly subdued, interwoven with planks, made of many types of different woods. It starts with mahogany, zooms past oak, beech and birch, and lands on pine chipboards. After a minute, we see darkened orange rinds emerge, as well as venison or reindeer sausage -- salty, game-y, and autumnal. Hazelnut saucisson, roasted chestnuts, and the most delicate drop of fortified wine. There is something floral in there too, cosmetic powder, more than actual petals. Unless it is birch sawdust? The second nose is in the same vein, yet it sees the addition of faded oilcloths and a decades-old pot-pourri of meadow flowers, mixed peel, and cinnamon sticks. It loses steam in the long run, unfortunately. Mouth: distinguished. Wood lacquer, fruit stones, cured orange rinds, and a dash of wood stain. At a mere 40%, it feels just right, as it allows flavours to converse, instead of smothering them with alcohol. We are really back at the carpenter's; if it is not plank-y in a bad way, it certainly is full of woody tones. Bookshelves, dusty stained chipboards, and timid ink impart a certain bitterness. The second sip puts the stress on citrus peel, a pronounced fruitiness overcomes most of the wood, and the bitterness from earlier turns into that of said peels. Next, we have Kaffir lime leaves, a white-hot empty mocha pot... and still a lick of wood, in the background, either an old bookshelf, or cedarwood sheets. Shards of cassia bark pay a late visit too. Finish: it feels a logical continuation, after the nose and the palate, insofar as it carries on the wood theme, yet it is lifted by a (slightly) more-pronounced fruitiness; blush orange, dried pink-grapefruit peels, cured-mandarine and -clementine peels, caramelised in a pan, with cinnamon, a few grains of ginger powder, and a twist of the nutmeg mill. It seems to have a general profile that is a crossing between Glühwein and Lemsip, a blend of fruits and spices that works remarkably well. The second sip has a stronger alcohol kick, yet it quickly resumes the mixed-peel story, with candied orange, mandarine, and pomelo peels, sweet, bitter, and, well, fruity. Something keeps that fruit a bit darker than if it were strictly mixed peel, though. Maybe cordial? Some kind of berry liqueur? It adds a soft, earthy, almost toasted twist to this finish. Glorious. Even better than the other day. 9/10
No comments:
Post a Comment