26/09/2023 Glencraig

Glencraig 44yo 1975/2020 (54.2%, Gordon & MacPhail 125th Anniversary Edition, Refill American Oak Hogshead, C#9686, 110b): nose: phwoar! from the first millisecond, one gets the sense this is special. It has a marvellously complex patchwork of aromas, including sawdust, bone-dry orange peels, fragrant hay, cedar wood, apple tea, incense (though not patchouli), wicker baskets, and dried meadow flowers that never turn into pot-pourri. One might have thought this would be woodier (and after forty-four years in a cask, that would be logical), yet, in fact, it is not overtly so. Sure, it has sandalwood, roasted peach stones, and mild-cigar boxes, but those tell only one side of the story. We also have mild cigars (not just the boxes), dusty dried daisies and buttercups, citrus that comes closer and closer to lime, oroblanco, and a dash of coconut oil to hold the whole together. Strikingly, all that is distinct. 'Loud' would have an unsuitably negative connotation; all the same, none of those scents is particularly shy. The whole is fresh and comforting at the same time -- an accomplishment. Lemongrass and white pepper appear as one tilts the glass, almost entirely concealing blueberries and smoked myrtles. The second nose puts the accent on those myrtles to the point it becomes a walk through a forest undergrowth, one filled with bramble, holly, and other berry-bearing bushes. Looking hard, one may detect lacquered wood too, though this is nowhere near a grain whisky, in that regard. A polished wooden apple knick-knack comes to mind, vaguely reminiscent of wine, or a drinks cabinet. Unless it is a caramelised drop of vanilla extract. Mouth: incredibly well balanced, the palate has a symphony of citrus fruits, dusted with a generous pinch of spices. Ginger powder, ground lemongrass, crushed citrus foliage, yuzu, oroblanco, a blend of black and white peppers, straight from the peppermill, and (unripe) pomelo. A soft bitterness rises slowly, citrus foliage, peel, or zest. The second sip is juicier, giving blood orange, overripe shaddock pomelo, overripe nectarines, and a drop of fortified wine (a vintage Port, undoubtedly). It is all lush, sweet, and rich, red, if not clearly winy, in a way that is exquisite. Interestingly, I find a drop of vanilla extract on black liquorice bootlaces, dunked into apricot nectar. That becomes almost earthy upon repeated sipping, with a splash of citrus juice here and there, so as to not forget it is still the same whisky. Myrtles, blackcurrants and blueberries seem to play a game of whack-a-mole, eventually. Finish: phwoar again! Ample, clearly defined, assertive, to put it in one word. This finish is in line with the palate, mixing fruits and wood spices with brio. The result is a showcase of tangerine and white pepper, pomelo and lemongrass, coconut flesh and stem ginger, juicy apricot and cigar leaves. It has a greener, vaguely bitter touch too -- courgette peels, perhaps? That is discreet, in any case. What a long and satisfying finish this is! The bitter grows darker at second sip, and, if it appears to come from blackcurrant or elderberry at first, it flirts with liquorice bootlaces, after a short while -- fresh, bitter, yet not overpowering. Subsequent gulps focus on the berries and currants more. They do not eclipse the soft bitterness, but they provide a lovely, fruity, juicy character that is the perfect ending to this masterpiece. Arresting whisky. 10/10