29/09/2023 Bruichladdich

Bruichladdich Golder Still 23yo 1984/2008 (51%, OB, Bourbon Squat Hogsheads, 4866b, b#3090): nose: a bold nose, full of oily teak and encaustic, dark honeys and Sirop de Liège. Suddenly, it turns all briny and coastal, with iodine, sea air aplenty, and rollmops. It also has ash, dropped from a lit cigarette. And then, we return to oily teak furniture, and lacquered armchairs. A couple of minutes into the exercise, however, the nose goes worryingly quiet -- hugely surprising. A gentle shake barely revives it: it now feels and smells like a tired old Gordon & MacPhail miniature at 40%. Hm. The briny side slowly crawls back into view, more tapenade than anything fishy, now, and it introduces a promise of warmth, as if the cigarette ash had morphed into greasy brown coal. It no longer has the impact of the initial sniff, but, at least, it is not totally spent. The second nose comes back alive, a mix of conifer branches, honey-glazed mint lozenges, and tapenade spilled on an oilskin. An intriguing and unusual combination -- one that works wonders. Mouth: unctuous, full of pouring honey, it is not long before this Bruichladdich reminds you that it is 51% ABV. It has a (gentle) bite alright! Prickle-pear honey, topped with red-chilli powder, honey-glazed cassia bark, and cigar leaves. Yes: it is a bit woody, and softly bitter. The second sip has no bite to speak of (that is not meant in a negative way), and virtually no bitterness either: it is all pouring-honey goodness -- honey made from seaside trees, -- with a minute quantity of unidentifiable tree bark to give it structure. Or, maybe, it is a pinch of dried thyme? Either way, it is excellent. Digging deep, one may find a tiny metallic flavour, the faint memory of a razor blade. Finish: the chilli heat and dark-wood bitterness hardly pass the gums, making room for an enchanting, silky honey. Viscous, sweet, all-natural pouring honey. Beautiful and moreish, it brings warmth and joy to this taster. The second sip adds a dollop of minty gel to a bowl of honey; if bees make honey from mint bushes, it certainly tastes like this. It leaves the mouth comfortably warm and refreshed at the same time. Not much of the seaside notes survives. A spoonful of tapenade, at a push, for the attentive taster, and that is as briny as it gets in the finish. This was a big surprise hit, when we tried it in June, last year, and it still delivers today. 9/10 (Thanks for the dram, JS)