07/02/2024 Rosebank

Rosebank 22yo 1991/2013 (55.2%, Iain Mackillop Mackillop's Choice, Sherry Cask, C#271): nose: ooft! This is marked by the Sherry. Last time we had this, we thought it was meaty; not so today, but it is clearly not a spring-like, flowery Rosebank. Instead, we have drinks cabinets made of exotic woods (mahogany, teak, walnut), and dried fruits (dates, figs, prunes). In the background, we find earthier notes, such as ground cumin and crusty desert dirt. Then, it fleetingly evolves towards a more-traditional Rosebank profile, with tulip petals and juicy-plant stems. It is mere seconds before we step into an unusual building, part rancio-filled dunnage warehouse, part tropical-plant greenhouse. Indeed, succulent plants and flowers grow on dusty clay floors, surrounded by slumbering old casks full of maturing wines, fortified or not. The lasting impression is of dust, and the nose goes quiet, apart from that. The second nose has an old oilskin tablecloth on a walnut kitchen table. Digestive biscuits are on display, until the nose changes again, and welcomes smashed strawberry on toast -- nay! on a biscote. Eventually, it turns into toasted brans, perhaps toasted a little too long. Mouth: a big attack, it tries to be meaty, then winy, with a slightly tannic touch, then it turns all Rosebank-y, with bunches of cut flowers, their stems still dripping sap, and rich custard. That is quickly augmented with a syrupy wine-enhanced caramel coulis, and booze-pumped fudge. It is so rich on the tongue! Again, the wine influence is unmissable, and reminds one of Palo Cortado. The second sip is in line, if it feels more drying. It has a warming quality not unlike a roaring coal fire on a cold winter's night. Finish: biscuit-y, this finish is the perfect thing to follow afternoon tea. It has notes of wine and biscuit (in fact, it leaves the whole mouth in the same state as after chomping on a crumbly digestive biscuit), as well as some spices (green-cardamom pods the most obvious, yet also ground cloves), dark brans, and raisins soaked in alcohol. The second gulp is warming and comforting, and reinforces the image of a coal fire at the inn, on a sleety wintry afternoon -- perhaps with a damp dog drying itself by the fireplace. Oh! What now? Once settled, retro-nasal olfaction gives a crystal-clear note of cigar -- one that lingers forever too! All of a sudden, the state of the mouth transitions from post-biscuit to post-cigar, and one feels as though one had just smoked a Cohiba. Cigar leaves, a veil of smoke, ashes in the ashtray at arm's length, unlit cigar, lit cigar, extinguished cigar, cigar, cigar, cigar. It really is a cigar malt. Striking! This here dram is not one of the great Rosebanks (tOMoH prefers them au naturel), but it is very good all the same. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, LM)