12/02/2024 Talisker

Talisker 20yo 1982/2003 (58.8%, OB, Refill Bourbon Casks, 12000b, b#11171): leftover from a sesh in December. Nose: what a mineral start! We have a rocky shoreline, eroded by the elements, chalky cliffs, and quarry chippings, soon augmented with briny sea air and seaweed on a sandy beach. In a matter of seconds, whelks and smoked fish join in, then oysters, sprinkled with lemon juice. There is definitely a minute whiff of smoke, and cooked-cabbage cooking water (or is it artichoke?) None of that last lot is in your face, and we return to maritime aromas in little time. A little bit of breathing helps some kind of detergent to the surface -- specifically lemon-, mint-, or forest-scented powder agglomerate, which would hint at either dishwasher tablets, or urinal cookies (who the flip came up with that name anyway?) Lemony it remains, even when this takes on a more-robustly smoky note of burnt wood. The second nose paints a slice of sponge cake, topped with a generous pour of custard cream, and enjoyed on the beack of a remote cove, with a timid ray of northern sun, a gentle sea breeze, and the call of seagulls for sole companions. Not far are the remains of last night's campfire, though it is now extinguished. A vague smell of tincture of iodine calls one's attention to a wound inflicted while fishing, but with that custard on cake, life is good. Later, we have wafts of swimming-pool water. Strange addition. Mouth: a punchy attack alright, it delivers fierce lemon juice, burning hazel wood, peppermint reminiscent of Fisherman's Friends, and pepper in cream diluted with sea water. This feels muscular to a point that could easily be seen as brutal, and it desiccates the jowls. I was about to write that it is chewy, but, actually, the texture is rather creamy. It is just that one does not often have cream that is at once peppery, salty, and kipper-y, so this here is quite confusing. The next sip is equally impactful. It adds eels to the menu, smoked haddock fillets, and pebbles, licked by the lapping. The smoke takes on a trawler's boiler aspect, with diesel fumes and an engine splashed with sea water. That increases over time, and we end up licking dusty and rusty boilers. Finish: battered cod, fried to melting perfection, with a dash of lemon, too much pepper, and a dollop of crème fraîche (which, for our French-speaking readers, equates to crème épaisse). It is a long (!) and comforting finish, much more approachable than the somewhat-violent palate suggested. The second sip adds some fruits, namely pomelo, oroblanco, and chargrilled ugli fruit, as well as lime yoghurt. Despite the obvious acidity and smokiness, one is struck by the creamy feel of it all. In the long run, this Talisker cranks up the heat and the smoke, yet the creamy, comforting side prevails, and (green) citrus is there to manage that smoke. Not just the fruits, now, but foliage too (clementine, grapefruit, pomelo). 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, OB)