22/07/2024 Glentauchers

Glentauchers 1994/2013 (43%, Gordon & MacPhail, Sherry Butts & Remade American Hogsheads, AC/ABGG): a goody from a recent(ish) past, this has spent ten years in the sample, protected by three kilometres of duct tape. Nose: powerfully fruity in an orchard way; apples, pears, greengages all sprinkled with a pinch of ash. Then, we have the trees that bore those fruits, pruned and pollarded, their cut branches speckled with dried mosses. Some of those branches are even in the fire already. A notional lime is perceptible that could easily pass for a pan-fried crisp green apple (Crispin, or the ever-reliable Granny Smith). The second nose has more of that same orchard wood, and confines fresh fruits to a wicker basket on a buffet. They are there alright, yet seem less prevalent. Mouth: and crisp it is too! Pectin-laden apples, crunchy and acidic -- so much so it makes one squint. Chewing revives the mosses and ashes from the nose, which is to say it has a distinct bitterness, but it really is a green-apple number, first and foremost (Granny Smith, of course, perhaps Shizuka), fruity and acidic. Smoked apple pips emerge, imparting yet another facet. The second sip welcomes apple belts, which spells artificial apple flavouring and sugar crystals, as well as preservatives reminiscent of citrus. Perhaps there is a sprinkle of candied angelica shavings in there too. Finish: surprisingly bold from the get-go, acidic, and peppery or juniper-y, the finish quickly becomes sweet, saturated with fruit sugars. At this point, it is close to the apple filling of industrial cakes or biscuits more than the base fruit itself. Far from a negative comment, that is merely a change in perspective. Long and lingering, it punctually breaks through the tongue's numbness to fan more sweet-apple goodness. The second gulp turns woodier: all the fruity sweetness is still there, though it is now the prize of patiently chewing rubbery tree bark or a bay leaf, as if munching on garden mulch gave one a slice of Granny Smith apple covered in sugar. A certain bitterness settles in, bay leaf indeed, or stewed angelica. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, WhiskyLovingPianist)