26/07/2024 Dailuaine

41.69 12yo d.2003 Making your mind twitch (57.6%, SMWS Society Single Cask, 1st Fill Barrel, 42b): we tried this one in June, standing, and rushing a bit. Nose: an enticing combination of wood glue, shoe glue, and pineapple juice. We have some wood spices too, milled white pepper and ginger powder. Those spices develop, more assertive with each sniff. Possibly crushed bay leaves, sumac and ground cloves. It never shakes off that lovely fruity touch (pineapple, coconut), but that goes inexorably to the back of the class... until it does not! Suddenly, about-turn! and it takes the form of candied pineapple and papaya cubes, sweet, chewy, and, well, fruity. Alongside grows a fusty note of dank-and-dusty warehouse, far enough south to catch some warmth and see condensation. The second nose is unbelievably custard-y; a custard augmented with pineapple purée and a drop of wood varnish. At one point, we have Irn Bru spilled on a newly-varnished wooden picnic table that would sit by a hedge of cypresses. Well, how about that! Mouth: sharp and woody, we have old chipboards, recently revarnished, and shoe glue. In no time, the palate welcomes sauced-up punch, sweet, fruity and boozy, and wood dust mixed with flint chippings. Granted, it is unusual, but it works a treat. Next are varnished deckchairs and ground peach stones. The second sip has a dose of citrus, softer than grapefruit, yet more acidic than satsuma; let us call it tangelo. Some of it is fresh, some candied, all delicious. Finish: warming, it has a short-lived bitter kick, then turns all fruity; warm peach jam with a dusting of ground peach stone. It is a long finish, to be sure, numbing and a tad bitter (a sensation that comes back with the peach stone, probably). Perhaps there are oranges segments with the skin on, so dry they are hard to spot, but they contribute to the big picture. The underlying note is of ginger powder, though, that surreptitiously numbs the gums. Like it did on the palate, the second sip adopts a citric quality -- more acidic here than on the tongue, closer to pomelo than it is to tangerine, though we also pick tatters of sweeter kumquats. A dash of Schweppes splashes the lot. Mind you, it still dies out with ginger powder tickling the gums. Excellent. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, EG)