There is much to infer about the state of the industry from the fact that Diageo, owners of Talisker, have started bottling single casks of one of their most-prized brands for private clients. This one for Hedonism is the first to come to our attention, but, two weeks later, Dornoch Castle Hotel announced their own such bottling. It had never been done. Probably, more will come.
Talisker 16yo b.268 (59.2%, OB specially bottled for Hedonism Wines, 15y ex-Bourbon American Hogshead + 1y Sherry Puncheon, 198b): nose: we have old boxes of spices, including bay leaves, cloves, cassia bark and black peppercorns. There are dried cherries too. What smoke we find is limited to a general cosy atmosphere in a rustic kitchen. We then discover warm shirt buttons and warm cocktails served in wooden cups. Cocktails? Yeah; rum, orange liqueur, pineapple juice. That is enjoyed in a freshly-waxed armchair on a hot summer evening. Ha! One can even smell some mosquito repellent on other patrons' skin. That is quite on point, seeing how Skye is infested by midges. The second nose sees moist textile of some kind, in continuation with the buttons from earlier. To follow, we have twigs and dead plants in a greenhouse, and the green wellies that go with it. Some really unlikely (if not unpleasant) notes, here! Mouth: oof! this is thick. Apricot nectar in texture, velvety and coating. Half a chew gives a gentle medicinal kick (hawthorn jelly caps), but what comes next is more in keeping with the distillery character: a copious dose of cracked black pepper and a bold alcohol bite. To even that out, grilled and roasted fruits (pineapple, apricot, papaya). It is smokier as it develops, and retro-nasal olfaction picks up a campfire in a coastal shelter. The second sip feels sweeter on entry. It may be mint crumbles, though it is fierce enough to be spearmint crumbles. Chewing brings out the same fruits again and adds unripe kumquat (and foliage) for shits and giggles. That makes the palate juicy and a tad bitterer. Finish: big and fiery, if not explosive, which means it is strong, numbing, yet not overpowering. It is also more traditional, here, with burnt wood and smoke. That said, it presents flint and fruit stones such as peach and avocado. There is less fruit flesh, on the other hand -- charred papaya, perhaps. We find a refreshing drop of bleach on top of that, or swimming-pool water (read: chlorine). It leaves the mouth as dry as if one had munched on chalk, though. The second gulp is closer to my preference, as fruits come out more (crystallised citrus taken with chopped mint leaves), wrapped in a hearty smoke. Smoked papaya skins and pineapple shavings rock up at the death. One more point awarded! 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, MSo)
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