Glenmorangie 10yo (43° Gay Lussac, OB imported by Schutz & cloos, b. ca. 1985): crisp and fresh, it has grapefruit peels, dried pineapple chunks and crystallised citrus (lemon and calamansi). We also find barley and hay to a lesser extent. It smells like a late-spring dram, which is dead-on, considering this is the second day of summer. Further nosing gives a whiff of sewers, which half-suggests decaying fruits. It is but fleeting, however: soon enough, we are back with citrus peels and, this time, it is closer to oranges enhanced with a lick of oily tobacco. The second nose has a powderier allure, closer to peach skins and cosmetic powder, perhaps ironed laundry and linen. Mouth: thin and fruity, it has more citrus, acidic and bright -- lemon, grapefruit, Buddha's hand. Chewing adds a pinch of spices, half ginger powder, half asafoetida, entirely mild. It is citrus's game, though, with zest, segments, pulp (in taste, not in texture) and oil. With imagination, one may detect lemon marmalade, though that is not prominent. The second sip is more acidic, if anything; dried grapefruit zest mingles with asafoetida, and a dash of lemon syrup completes the picture. Finish: the citrus parade carries on in the finish, with dried calamansi segments, candied lemons, dried grapefruit and pineapple slices. A faint trace of sawdust gives an original note that replaces the ginger from earlier. The second gulp starts off with stem ginger to promptly return to dried citrus and sawdust. It seems to have wine-cured oranges too, but it is too dry for that. Let us call them cured oranges, dried and zested. This is as delicious as ever. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, Psycho)
Glenmorangie 23yo d.1963 (43%, OB distributed by Wilmerink & Muller, Oloroso Sherry Casks Finish): nose: this may as well be a different distillery altogether -- or another spirit! The nose is deep as the Mariana Trench, with figs (dried and fresh), prunes, membrillo, soaked raisins, but also more-savoury aromas, such as mushroom cooking water, Kluwak-nut soaking water and even beef broth. One would be forgiven for thinking from reading that that it is a traditional Sherry maturation: it is, but a superlative one. Next are smashed blackberries, blueberries, myrtles, a dollop of blackcurrant paste or jelly, and yet more membrillo topped with a tiny pinch of chalk dust. Something vegetal emerges, after a few minutes, fresh as mint, angelica and fresh-water algae blended together. Give that a minute and a sugary sweetness joins in, which reinforces the angelica note -- candied angelica, this time. Behind that, we find an earthier side of potting soil in a clay pot. That lands on blackberry jam punctuated by whispers of hazelwood warmed by the fire (not burnt). The second nose puts the emphasis on the earthy side, and it smells like entering a green house in the spring: damp earth from which the water is slowly evaporating, green wellies, humid watering cans and a mix of plants. Mouth: incredibly, all the notes from the nose are here; earth, prunes, Kluwak nuts, raisins, figs, angelica... All of them. It is sweet and earthy, raisin-y, deep and a little savoury too. Indeed, the raisins soaking water is blended with a couple of spoonfuls of beef broth, and augmented with that mint-and-algae concoction from earlier, that was crushed with a pestle in a mortar prior. Chewing adds rancio and dials the prunes to eleven. Figs, raisins and blackberries give some rhythm. The second sip has a fleeting dash of Fino Sherry, super fruity, despite a mineral dryness. It reminds me of plastic green grapes, the kind one used to see on the table in some restaurants in the 1980s (a particular Yugoslav establishment comes to mind). Chewing increases the mineral fruitiness, though less crisp than that of a Fino. It is firmly on fruit territory. Finish: phwoar! Incredibly fruity a finish, teeming with prunes, raisins, currants, elderberries. The earthy side is much more discreet, now, limited to mushroom cooking water. On the other hand, we have more prune syrup, blackberry jam and blackcurrant jelly. Despite the modest ABV and the initial softness, one soon realises this sticks to the gob forever-and-a-day. It has something reminiscent of coffee at second gulp -- perhaps it is mocha custard slowly setting, or tiramisù? That later turns into a subtle earthy bitterness, yet one that is more than balanced by a clear sweetness. It is too earthy to be grapes, really. Prunes, dried figs or soaked raisins, certainly. Mushrooms make a timid comeback via retro-nasal olfaction: pan-seared, honey-glazed button mushrooms, where the pan is then deglazed with a dash of Pedro Ximénez. This is outstanding. Probably the best Glenmorangie tOMoH has tasted to-date. 10/10
Glenmorangie 10yo (43° Gay Lussac, OB imported by Schutz & cloos, b. ca. 1985): crisp and fresh, it has grapefruit peels, dried pineapple chunks and crystallised citrus (lemon and calamansi). We also find barley and hay to a lesser extent. It smells like a late-spring dram, which is dead-on, considering this is the second day of summer. Further nosing gives a whiff of sewers, which half-suggests decaying fruits. It is but fleeting, however: soon enough, we are back with citrus peels and, this time, it is closer to oranges enhanced with a lick of oily tobacco. The second nose has a powderier allure, closer to peach skins and cosmetic powder, perhaps ironed laundry and linen. Mouth: thin and fruity, it has more citrus, acidic and bright -- lemon, grapefruit, Buddha's hand. Chewing adds a pinch of spices, half ginger powder, half asafoetida, entirely mild. It is citrus's game, though, with zest, segments, pulp (in taste, not in texture) and oil. With imagination, one may detect lemon marmalade, though that is not prominent. The second sip is more acidic, if anything; dried grapefruit zest mingles with asafoetida, and a dash of lemon syrup completes the picture. Finish: the citrus parade carries on in the finish, with dried calamansi segments, candied lemons, dried grapefruit and pineapple slices. A faint trace of sawdust gives an original note that replaces the ginger from earlier. The second gulp starts off with stem ginger to promptly return to dried citrus and sawdust. It seems to have wine-cured oranges too, but it is too dry for that. Let us call them cured oranges, dried and zested. This is as delicious as ever. 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, Psycho)
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