14/05/2021 Crabbie

Crabbie 28yo d.1992 (45.5%, John Crabbie & Co. Single Cask, Bourbon Cask, 260b): a reliable source tells us this is from a famous distillery in the Livet valley. Nose: it has the delicate malted barley and sweet lemonade that I have come to associate with a Speysider in its mid-twenties. It has caramel flan, lemongrass or combava leaves, lime and pomelo peel, as well as a drop of lemon tonic. There is something darker too, maybe cola residue, at the bottom of a glass that has dried overnight, yet also ground sumac and ground mace. The second nose has paper paste and a dryness that borders on chalky, now, still with that citrus-y touch. Mouth: strangely bitter and chewy, both of which are reminiscent of soft rubber. Citrus soon enters the dance: first lime, then pomelo peels (the fruits it comes from barely ripe) and a ladle of bitter, salty lemon tonic. This mouth is totally unexpected; the freshness of the nose has morphed into something almost too concentrated for me. It is lime-Schweppes margaritas, bitter, acidic and salty, with a fruity hue in the background. It becomes more pleasant as the palate gets accustomed to it. Lastly, a pinch of red-chilli powder sets the tongue alight. Finish: that fruity hue shines brighter, here, with glowing pomelo and lime wedges on salt-frosted cocktail glasses of tequila and citrus tonic. Again: bitter, acidic, salty and with a (more obvious, now) fruity background. The second sip brings tropical fruits forward (carambola and giant granadilla), which prompts me to review my initial score. Due to its originality and the tropical factor, this cannot be less than 8/10 (Thanks for the sample, SA and JW)