Despite the pandemic, Deanston is conducting some tours (with added precautions, it goes without saying). No chance drop-in; it has to be booked in advance. JS reckoned this Warehouse No. 4 tasting was the most interesting, so here we are, for today's last session.
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| Added COVID-19 precautions |
Only three of us attend. We are led to the warehouse in question, which is a strange mix of concrete floor and low ceiling, casks stacked three high and low-ish temperature. It is neither a racking warehouse, nor a real dunnage warehouse -- much less a palletised one.
Three casks are waiting for us on the floor, and three bottles, drawn from each of the casks, are on a cask top: because of COVID-19, there will be no live valinching, unfortunately.
Deanston d.2013 (58.8%, Cask Sample, First Fill ex-Four Roses Bourbon Barrel): nose: jasmine perfume, mixed peel and confectionary sugar, but also balsawood and sawdust. The wood is not shy, despite the young age. Further are hand cream and cosmetic powders. Mouth: lively, it has bitter marmalade and mild sawdust. Finish: long, mildly bitter, this is teeming with mixed peel, now. 7/10
Deanston d.2001 (55.5%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Barrel finished in ex-Fino Sherry Hogshead): I inquire about the use of a Fino cask: was it a definite choice, or was there a Fino cask hiding in a parcel of random sherry casks? The answer is inconclusive, though Ronnie, our guide seems to think it was a choice to use this unusual sherry. This was distilled from organic barley, he tells us. Nose: pastry-like, this has croissant, plum tart, apricot pie, dates, and a serving of marzipan. Much later on, we have citrus-y custard too. Mouth: slightly overly-baked shortcrust, spicy ginger, cinnamon, a touch of tobacco. It turns a little dry in the long run, producing dried orange rinds and dried kiwi peel. Finish: very long, sticky, sweet, this has more dates, cinnamon and almond cake, as well as overly-baked apricots. Mild chocolate appears, in the long run. I love this. 8/10
Deanston d.2004 (59.4%, Cask Sample, First Fill ex-Amontillado Sherry Butt): this one is fully matured in that butt. Nose: wine-y, it has pickled red onions and old tin cans in a cardboard box. Mouth: I find this a bit rough, almost splintery, with lots of sawdust, ginger shavings and tannins. Finish: this redeems itself with welcome chocolate. 6/10
Unfortunately, I have spent all my disposable on the way here, or I would buy the ex-Fino. JS prefers the ex-Bourbon, of course.
It is a nice touch on the part of the distillery to provide empty sample bottles for the driver. Also, the pours are very generous. On the other hand, the session is pretty short: forty-five minutes to try three generous doses of cask-strength whisky feels a bit rushed to me. It also feels as if the guide is on a strict schedule, and keen to not deviate from it. Considering the pandemic-related restrictions, I cannot blame him for it; it simply is less enjoyable for that.
Fortunately, we have three full samples to try again later. Not a bad thing at all, considering the temperature in the warehouse mutes most of the flavours.
When the tasting finishes, we are left with only fifteen awkward minutes to shop. Worst of all, though: the cafeteria is closed. There goes our plan to eat there. Again, perhaps a consequence of the pandemic, but a pity nonetheless.
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| For the film buffs, this cask is signed by the cast of The Angels' Share |
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| The iconic main building of the distillery |
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