Thanks to the samples provided at the distillery, I try those again a couple of days later, outside of the warehouse configuration, with a higher ambient temperature and no rush, so as to make a more reliable opinion.
Deanston d.2013 (58.8%, Cask Sample, First Fill ex-Four Roses Bourbon Barrel): nose: initially, it is almost a Bourbon, with bursts of vanilla and toffee, as well as a bit of oak. Then, that cools off to deliver polished oak doors -- polished, not lacquered, mind! A whiff of nail varnish, before we are engulfed by toffee again. Caramel, a slice of lemon meringue, hints of pine needles, and, for some reason, I want to say pineapple. Later on, wafts of citrus peels and incense come forward, which is as pleasant as it is unlikely. Lavender soap too? It is not soapy per se, though; it is subdued in a Highland-Park sort of way. Mouth: pretty sharp attack that has lemon meringue on a wooden board. Suddenly, a certain spiciness grows, and lemon pickle (not pickled lemons) joins lemongrass, as mango powder and ginger come to the fore too. The second sip confirms the spices, numbing the palate a little, whilst increasing the fruit at the same time: candied orange segments, lemon peels, combava leaves... It is definitely a citric-acidic profile, despite the initial woodiness. Finish: much better integrated than the first time, the finish unleashes molten caramel, toffee and fudge, yet those are quickly met by a woody side that borders on plank-y -- quite the surprise, after so little time in wood! Spices still roar -- this time: white pepper and nutmeg. In my head, that spells a lack of maturity, and it is fortunate that the barrel has had a chance to taint the whisky with the toffee from the Bourbon it previously contained. 6/10
Deanston d.2001 (55.5%, Cask Sample, Bourbon Barrel finished in ex-Fino Sherry Hogshead): nose: wine, marinated meat, a hot oven grille, a shovelful of earth and ink. Oh! It is no 1965 Ardbeg, but ink all the same, if of a more recent kind. Next up are watercolour, dried dates so dry they have lost almost all fruitiness, and, finally, a drop of hazelnut oil. It seems as if this nose is trying to blend mint drops or menthol with a honey glaze, and that works remarkably. Mouth: the sherry is loud, here, if not overpowering. Tons of dried dates and dried figs, served with, well, a glass of sherry. It is also pretty hot, with both chilli pickle and stem ginger. There is a faint bitterness too, hard to discover under the rather bold sweetness. Some earth, a good dose of tannins, ginger and cinnamon, cassia bark and cake crust, toasted for a little too long. The spiciness might be hard to take for some -- it is really rich. Finish: oh! yes, spicy alright. The finish presents some toasted notes too; aniseed-sprinkled peach slices and distant coffee. Again, the sweetness is rather obvious, even though it does not feel vulgar. Crispy, toasted sponge-cake slice (dates, raisins), clootie dumpling or Guinness pudding, burnt panettone and honey-glazed pecans, which gives the whole a mild bitterness too. The sherry is a bit loud, outside the warehouse. I still like it, but less. 7/10
Deanston d.2004 (59.4%, Cask Sample, First Fill ex-Amontillado Sherry Butt): nose: heady, ripe with macerated fruits: peaches, mandarins, plums, grapes in wine -- this is not half wine-y. There is a fresher fruit too, perhaps lychee, yet it is difficult to identify with certainty. It does feel slightly earthy as well, though nothing like an ex-Oloroso cask, thankfully. Leather aplenty, at second nosing, akin to one of those Pakistani leather shops on Brick Lane. In fact, it is at the crossroads between leather goods and a tannery, at times: almost meaty. Almost! Mouth: very sweet to begin with, teeming with sangria-soaked fruits, it then suddenly switches bone dry, the liquid absorbing all the saliva from the mouth and attacking the gum to leave but bare white bone. At the same time, and almost inexplicably, it remains syrupy and fruity. It might well gain a dollop of menthol too. Grape skins, elderberry-liqueur sediment, and blackberry cordial. Finish: menthol indeed, sweet, syrupy wine too, of course, chewy berry cough drops (elderberry, blackcurrant), and a hefty dose of tannins, though it never feels too astringent. Even in the finish, we find this drying-fruit-liqueur side that blends acidity and sweetness in a way that is difficult to comprehend. This is decent and I like it better than on site, but, let us face it, it is a strong sherry more than a whisky. 7/10
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