04/03/2024 Benrinnes

Benrinnes 12yo 2011/2023 (52%, Adelphi Selection, 1st Fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead, C#301624, 302b): nose: instead of the Benrinnes-y pine needles, we have a syrupy concoction, part Golden Syrup, part date syrup, part caramelised cooking-onion juices. A few seconds later, that changes into setting honey, and a drop of ink, then a watercolour palette. It is that latter note that sticks, triggering childhood flashbacks. It also has a faint touch of shiny metal, lubricated with an oily flannel. It changes again, and now offers raisins and dried figs. The second nose is fleetingly meaty, in the same way a Sherry-cured roast can be. A second later, it is watercolours and dried fruits again, spread on a pine cone for fun. Mouth: dry, earthy, and a tad meaty, it quickly composes a nice wine sauce that could be sickly, it it were not for the pine-tree dark honey that one expects from this distillery, spread on toasted rye bread. Time in the mouth helps reveal raisin relish and fig paste. The second sip is rancio-y, and drying, more earthy than the first, and a bit acidic. Something that is hard to ascertain, because it turns sweet again fairly quickly. It has a very chewy texture, and is, one would imagine, close to chomping on watercolour. On the late tip, we spot dried cranberries (that would explain the acidity), and a lick of rubber. Finish: squashed (dried) figs and raisins mingle with watercolour, modelling wax, and hardened plasticine. The watercolour is particularly evident via retro-nasal olfaction, and makes for a gently earthy aftertaste. Of course, it is a Benrinnes, so we see pine needles, but they are subdued. In fact, it might be a broth of pine-cone spores instead, with a spoonful of caramelised dark honey. The second sip is sweeter, with currants aplenty, and fruit-scented plasticine to replace watercolour. My money is on dried apricot slices or dried plums. Rather nice altogether. I think I like it better than the first time. 7/10